1995 IFZ ….. BAD Day…. Need Some Guidance (1 Viewer)

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This is a valid point.

But it is better to learn from the mistakes of others than by your own experience.
You would be amazed how difficult this is for some people....
 
From the OP's original statement, I thought this was appropriate......

 
I used a huge moving blanket to loosen the cap and let the pressure out. I wasn’t concerned about get burnt

Not trying to preach or anything. But in addition to saftey there is another huge reason to never remove the cap on an overheated radiator.

The cap keeps your cooling system pressurized and prevents the coolant from boiling.

When you remove the cap the coolant boils and looses its ability to cool the engine.

The best thing to do would be leaving the cap on and pouring or spraying water on the radiator itself.

That being said I think your head gasket will be fine and you just need to figure out the ignition issue. 🙏

Goodluck
 
Ok….. got the new coil and coil wire installed. Still got no fire from the coil when testing it with my timing light and of course no start.

The plug coming into the coil has 12v

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Here is the old coil

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When I tested the timing light on my other truck it works showing power through the coil wire when turning over.
 
Here is the coil wire

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You know this is the 80 forum, right?

To answer your question (which no one bothered to do, while they were berating you for all the stuff you did do), yes you can test a coil.

It's a transformer, so it has two sides, a low side and a high side. You'll need a mulitmeter (digital or analog, doesn't matter). You'll also need the specs for the FZJ73 engine components, which will be in the 70 series factory service manual. There is also a testing procedure in there (OK, that's an assumption on my part, I've never read a 70 series FSM, but it's in every other FSM I've ever read, and I've read a few). That'll tell you if the coil is good or not.
 
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You know this is the 80 forum, right?
Don’t some year models of the 80 Series have the same or similar engine? (1FZ)
 
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Never having been closer to a 70 than my monitor, I have no idea what's in them.
 
Yes on the 80s forum. I came here as very few 70s in the 70 forum have 1FZs but I knew quite a few 80 series did so I figured this would be a better place to go as long as they have the same ignition system…. That might be my down fall if the 80s have a different or updated coil/ coil ignition system.

I will check both coils !!!



You know this is the 80 forum, right?

To answer your question (which no one bothered to do, while they were berating you for all the stuff you did do), yes you can test a coil.

It's a transformer, so it has two sides, a low side and a high side. You'll need a mulitmeter (digital or analog, doesn't matter). You'll also need the specs for the FZJ73 engine components, which will be in the 70 series factory service manual. There is also a testing procedure in there (OK, that's an assumption on my part, I've never read a 70 series FSM, but it's in every other FSM I've ever read, and I've read a few). That'll tell you if the coil is good or not.
 
I going to get batteries for my meter to check the coils to ensure they are good.

I did notice on the power plug ( 2 pin) that goes into the coil has a black wire and a black wire with red stripe. Unplugged from the coil and ignition on the black wire has 12v and the black and red has no power to it. Once you plug it in to the coil ( with ignition still on) the red and black wire now has 12v.

Here is the black wire

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Red and black plugged the not the coil

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FWIW, it's a bad practice to leave the ignition energized without running the engine. You should check the harness for continuity without power to it. The EWD will show you where each end of a given circuit is, that's where you should take your measurements.

I'd recommend you download a copy of the FSM & EWD for the year applicable to your engine. It'll be of help to you.

Since I know nothing about 70s, I have no idea what year your engine is, whether it was an OEM option or replacement (and if it was, what it came out of), but, taking a stab in the dark, here are the coil specs for a 1995 1FZ-FE coil:
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Also, the FSM is silent about this, but the resistance measurement is the same for the primary wire from the coil to the distributor, as it is for the distributor to the spark plugs.
 
Thanks for all the info and advice. I did notice that I ordered

90919-13427 Resistive Coil wire FZJ73 part number

But this was what I received

90919-13436 Resistive coil wire FZJ80 part number

The 13436 list to be for the 80 series. Not sure there is a difference as they look identical but I’ll compare them when I get home….. the Lebanese restaurant diverted me !!!! 😁

Added ……

While both wires seem to be be 5mm, the Ends are significantly different on both ends. The open end was the original one on the truck. Not sure the difference matters but noteworthy !!!

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From the OP's original statement, I thought this was appropriate......


I had a Marine Corps Sergeant tell me the exact same thing back in the early 80's.

And at the time, he was right! Hopefully I've learned a thing or two since then but sometimes I wonder!

But actually, if you put the coil on another truck and it worked then the coil shouldn't be the problem. I'd be looking at whatever triggers the coil, maybe the crank position sensor or wiring?
 
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Old coil….
Primary - .6 to .7 ( jump back and forth)
Secondary - 12.4

New Coil …. @ 86 F
Primary - .5 to .6 ( jump back and forth )
Secondary - 12.7 ( steady)

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Reading the service manual troubleshooting and some other threads got me wondering about the igniter as well. I read where the tach should bounce prior to start but mine is dead still when turning over. Not sure if that’s correct but is there any real test to check the igniter?

Mine is slightly different than the 80 series one so no one I can borrow one from to test. I guess I’ll work all other avenues before throwing the $350 this part cost.

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Well she’s alive…. The igniter in the FSM got me to check it real close as far as power and all the connectors. This wire, while still inside the plug was broken. Never would have caught it as it still plug in and out without the wire coming out but once I test each wire to make sure they were secure, it slipped out.

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Much thanks to all that gave constructive advice and not doubt learned a little along the way. The FSM and pages posted were extremely helpful, so much thanks OGBeno and Malleus!!!!

She drives perfectly so I guess I dodged a bullet but I’ll keep an eye on her!!!!

Semper Fi
 

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