1995 HZJ75 Sheared Hub Studs (1 Viewer)

[GoofTroop]

Hey all,

I had the pleasure of shearing all of my rear hub studs yesterday while out wheeling around. The axle slipped right out.

Reading thru some of the posts here I see that sometimes bad bearings are to blame, some are blaming a bent axle housing, and others are just chocking it up to under engineered hub hardware. For me, I'm not really sure what's to blame yet. Hoping they just broke from hard driving.

I had the hub bearings/seals replaced less than 1000 miles ago. Both seals had blown out on me during a longish drive. It was the first real trip I had taken since importing the Troopy so I didn't really think much of it. However now that I've had the studs shear on me I'm starting to wonder if I have a deeper issue. Assuming the bearings were installed correctly it really just leaves bent hardware or under engineered hub assembly.

In any case, I really want to just drill out the studs and replace them with the hub still installed. Has anyone attempted this? I know it's probably a job for a bridgeport or similar. Just wondering if it's even possible to do while installed.

 

[GoofTroop]

Only before picture i have. With any luck, maybe I just needed to retorque the nut after a few hundred miles of breaking in the new gasket...

 

[GoofTroop]

more before

 

[coldtaco]

I’ve read some in Australia have gone to one size larger studs, assuming to try and avoid this from happening. I would go with either bearings or bend housing. Unless you’re running 44” tires or something close to that size.

 

[Hulsty]

There is a fault somewhere, bad bearings, hub, torque, low quality hardware, bent axel etc etc. The factory setup is stronger than the axel itself, I've broken many. Changing to larger hardware just masks the problem.

 

[GoofTroop]

Any chance anyone knows the torque requirement on the 6 hub nuts & spindle nut? I've watched a few videos online, one guy said spindle nut is a grunt and half lol then you back off until the hash mark lines up with one of the screws. If I could get closer than that it'd be good. I need to order a manual still.

I've got this set on it's way. Hopefully it's decent quality.

Rear Wheel Bearing Hub Kit - Suitable For Toyota Landcruiser 75 Series

Fitment Fit For Toyota Landcruiser FJ70 4X4 2 Door Hardtop Rear LH/RH 1990-1992 Fit For Toyota Landcruiser FJ73 4X4 2 Door Hardtop Rear LH/RH 1990-1992 Fit For Toyota Landcruiser FJ75 4X4 2 Door Cab Chassis Rear LH/RH 1990-1992 Fit For Toyota Landcruiser FJ75 4X4 2 Door Hardtop Rear LH/RH...

thecruiserstore.com.au

 

[rick_d]

ARP hub studs also have been know to work. I agree with Hulsty, something is not tight to allow axle shaft to wallow in situ.

Toyota went from 8mm to 10mm studs in 1999 to cure- but they are 5 lug rims only.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Your average idiot-with-a-hammer mechanic likes to hit the edge of the hub/flange when they don't know how to remove the cone washers on the studs. I can see yours are slightly flattened at the edges. It doesn't look bad, but it might be worth looking if the tapered holes are deformed.

Also, why if they were so recently serviced were they so rusty inside? Did your last mechanic grease the bearings? I think I can see an oil seal in the spindle, in which case they will not run on gear oil.

Another thing - it looks like someone has electroplated the cone washers for some reason, and not fitted the plain washers on top of them (as far aas I can tell from your pictures). The plating may interfere with the fitting of the cone washer to the tapered hole.

In short, although they made it look nice, someone who does not know how to work on these vehicles has had a go at your rear hubs (not necessarily the last guy that worked on it, but the rust raises questions about his work).

 

[GoofTroop]

I'm looking now and wondering if I'm full on missing a gasket between the hub and axle flange.

 

[GoofTroop]

for what it's worth, here's my surviving hub. Might just replace it too for good measure. At least I'll know it's my fault next time it breaks.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Sorry, now that I see those pictures I was wrong about the cone washers and missing plain washers, so please ignore my remarks on that. Any damage on the hub or axle shaft sealing surfaces could be from years ago and nothing to do with the last guy to work on it.

Toyota stopped putting a gasket between hub and flange in the mud 1980s from what I remember.

I would take the hub off and check the bearings, and also look at the sealing surfaces of hub and flange.

 

[GoofTroop]

Thanks for all the inputs and the correction! I'll for sure pull it and have a look around.

 

[lacalvette]

Try using a MIG welder fisrt to remove the broken stud. First try may break (bad weld besause oxydation), second atempt will work. One "dip" at the time, bulding something you can grap with plier

 

[lacalvette]

Was the dowel pin inserted in the hub? Looks like they both came off with the axle shaft?

How the "surviving side" looks? Are the nuts tighten?
Real bummer...

 

[HZJ75 FARMER]

Toyota stopped putting a gasket between hub and flange in the mud 1980s from what I remember.

If they stopped putting a gasket in the mid 1980's, it must not have been for very long before they soon started putting a gasket again?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

If they stopped putting a gasket in the mid 1980's, it must not have been for very long before they soon started putting a gasket again?

Wow, I'm wrong again. On my model (BJ60) it shows that the FFA version stopped using that gasket in 1987 I think. But I've looked through other models and they always use a gasket. So it must be an error in the EPC. Thanks for pointing that out - I'm not far off putting my rear axle together and can now get hold of those gaskets. I did wonder how they expect the surfaces to seal...

 

[GoofTroop]

Was the dowel pin inserted in the hub? Looks like they both came off with the axle shaft?

How the "surviving side" looks? Are the nuts tighten?
Real bummer...

Great idea with the mig welder! I ended up getting a new hub but i do want this one as a backup so I'll fiddle around with trying to get the studs out now.

The surviving side - the nuts we're all below torque. The hardware also fits a lot different than on the newly installed side. The conical washers on the surviving side don't nest as deep.

I do have a question on the spindle nut... I tightened it, beat the hub with a mallet, tightened it some more (per youtube). Then I backed it off so that the spindle nut has mark lined up with the nearest indicator and slipped the two locking screws in. The spindle nut was just beyond hand tight at that point I'd say... Does that seem right?

 

[Hulsty]

IMO get rid of those spring washers, they are nothing but baaaad, use good flat washers and correct joint torque. You can also see in the below image one of them has failed and starting to spit out.