1995 fzj80 5.3/4l60e/np203/splitcase swap
- Thread starter Mr.Bryan
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
Well, I've put a good 150 miles on it so far. Drives great!
Still havent put the interior back together yet. Just trying to jerry rig some stuff for the weekend.
Has anyone tackled the issue of how to make the lockers work?
Still havent put the interior back together yet. Just trying to jerry rig some stuff for the weekend.
Has anyone tackled the issue of how to make the lockers work?
You probably did what I did - removed the ground wire in the trans harness. In that harness that goes to the original transmission and transfer case, there is the power supply wire, the locker sensor wires, and the ground wires. There is also the VSS for the speedo and a ground wire. These need to be retained. The lockers won't engage unless the CDL is locked and so you need all of the wires related to the CDL in place and working.
- Thread starter
- #105
Well, hell of a last week. Took the truck down to flat nasty for a wheeling session and some nice missouri camping. It's about a 500mi drive one way, truck ran perfectly on the way down while towing my mr2. Temp never got above 208 on the hills and everything.
Wheeled the crap out of it, gears are awesome, definitely going to consider a 4:1 set up for the split case in the future. Having a 2:1 4:1 8:1 option would be sick.
Got the lockers to work, actually stupid simple. Just need to ground the yellow black wire out of ih1 and it thinks the cdl is activated so you can flip on the lockers. I'm eventually going to put a switch on it and mount it all pretty like on the dash. For reference, I think it's pin 3 on ih1. I'll clarify that when I'm finally home.
Driving back now and I have the truck all patched up. I busted a ton of crap wheeling it. Power steering hose is leaking, poked a hole in the trans pan with the front drive shaft, heater hose for the rear heater is dripping, banged up the exhaust on the front axle pretty bad. Going to have to tend to that before the next trip. And last but not least, I have a mystery vibration now. It's power train related, however I don't think it's anything Chevy. I think the issue is either rear drive shaft or hub/axle related. It's a fast vibration and feels like something is bent as opposed to a rubbing or something slower rotating at tire speed. I could be wrong though. Not really sure where to start diagnosing it with a trailer on it and an np203 screaming in my ear.
Great power train though. Tows fantastically and gets better mileage. From rough estimates with an empty trailer I'm around 17-18 mpg.
Time to start repairing and building some linkages for the shifters. Getting under the truck to shift everything sucks.
Wheeled the crap out of it, gears are awesome, definitely going to consider a 4:1 set up for the split case in the future. Having a 2:1 4:1 8:1 option would be sick.
Got the lockers to work, actually stupid simple. Just need to ground the yellow black wire out of ih1 and it thinks the cdl is activated so you can flip on the lockers. I'm eventually going to put a switch on it and mount it all pretty like on the dash. For reference, I think it's pin 3 on ih1. I'll clarify that when I'm finally home.
Driving back now and I have the truck all patched up. I busted a ton of crap wheeling it. Power steering hose is leaking, poked a hole in the trans pan with the front drive shaft, heater hose for the rear heater is dripping, banged up the exhaust on the front axle pretty bad. Going to have to tend to that before the next trip. And last but not least, I have a mystery vibration now. It's power train related, however I don't think it's anything Chevy. I think the issue is either rear drive shaft or hub/axle related. It's a fast vibration and feels like something is bent as opposed to a rubbing or something slower rotating at tire speed. I could be wrong though. Not really sure where to start diagnosing it with a trailer on it and an np203 screaming in my ear.
Great power train though. Tows fantastically and gets better mileage. From rough estimates with an empty trailer I'm around 17-18 mpg.
Time to start repairing and building some linkages for the shifters. Getting under the truck to shift everything sucks.
Sounds like a great shake down run. Double check that your hubs are not locked and therefore turning the front DS. Don't ask how I know... 
- Thread starter
- #107
warpdriv said:Sounds like a great shake down run. Double check that your hubs are not locked and therefore turning the front DS. Don't ask how I know...
Yea, I never put selectable hubs on it and after about 20 min of driving with the vibration I stopped under a bank drive through station to shade me from the sun as I pulled off the front drive shaft. That didn't change anything so... It leads me to believe its in the rear.
It for sure was a great shake down run though. Broke what I needed to break to make it better.
alia176
SILVER Star
damn it Bryan, we need some more PICS!!!
- Thread starter
- #110
Well, Here's a bit of a write up to describe what I have in my head about the project before I forget everything...
There's some decent info in here and the other few threads out there on this swap but I'll try to post up about specific things that I ran into and I'll eventually get all my part numbers into here as well.
The project has turned out pretty good so far, I'm at the athstetics part of the swap where it's putting all the little things back together and making it all nice looking again. But here's from the top.
Pulling the original drive train wasn't a bad job, 4rnr and I tackled it in a few hours. We pulled off all the obvious parts first and prepped as much as we could. No big deal here, I decided to keep everything together and it was actually pretty easy to pull engine trans and tcase out all at the same time. I didn't try to save any exhaust so I just lopped it off at the Y portion right after the exhaust manifold. I would suggest making sure that every bolt that you're going to need later, put back into the hole of where it came out. It's a great way to stay organized instead of forgetting what goes where or putting them into a bag or on a shelf and inevitably forgetting where it goes. Also remember that the trans/tcase are supported by the crossmember and you'll want to put some sort of a jack underneath them so you do crush yourself when you pull all of the bolts out of the crossmember and the whole back end of the power train fall down. (thankfully I didn't do that) Oh also, you'll probably want to have your A/C evacuated before you disconnect it and have it explode all over yourself. (learned the hard way)
Prepping the truck to accept the new engine and trans really didn't take much of anything. I cut off the old engine mounts with a cut off wheel and then ground everything flat with a flap wheel. Pulling off the sway bar was a bit of a help in moving the new parts in and out while lining things up. I currently don't run a sway bar and in fact part of my next project is to cut all that out for exhaust routing.
Anywho, while the engine was out and the majority of the engine bay was empty i decided to power wash as much of the truck as i could. I soaked everything in simple green and then washed it all down and it actually cleaned up a whole lot. Turned out really nice. Just plug the hole where the wires went to the ecu inside the cabin or you'll end up with a bunch of wet stuff behind your dash.
I took some time to yank a bunch of crap that I wasn't planning on using again like the charcoal canister, air intake bits, cruise control, gas pedal and cables...
After I picked up my new engine/trans/tcases, I spent some time putting things together and prepping all of that before I stuck it in (that's what she said). Here's what I learned from that.
When figuring out where to put your engine mounts, leave the headers off. It'll make it easier. There's really not more that a 1" variance on where you can put the engine mounts. My goal was to keep the engine as close to the firewall as possible so I can keep a manual fan. Success. tons o' room. I didn't worry about the rake that GM engine's usually require as I figured this could be addressed by the crossmemeber when it's time for that.
4rnr used his awesome welding skills to weld up the engine mounts which were adjustable mounts from dirty dingo. They worked really well. Super easy.
Finalizing the engine before I put it in for the last time here's some things to consider, put your headers on (i went with hooker block huggers, they tuck nicely between the frame rails which I couldn't find anything else that fit as well), make sure the fittings for your trans cooler and your lines are on before you put it in. It'll save you and hour and a half of swearing while you try to do it with the available 1.5" of room between the trans and the trans tunnel underneath the truck later.
Other things to consider before mount the engine:
Oil pan, oil pick up, windage tray, toss a filter on, check the starter, if you're changing the fuel rail, do it now although it's not too big a deal later, it's just always easier out of the truck. One of the biggest issues for me was also dealing with the VSS. My set up was different from everyone elses so I didn't have any parts that already accepted a vss. So, the 4" piece off the end of the 4wd 4l60e between the trans and tcase, i pulled off and had a machine shop drill and tap it so I could just screw a vss into that and then used a clamp on tone ring from AA. Works great. Sealed it in there with some hardening pipe thread locker sealant crap for steal pipes. Works well and keeps the crap out when wheeling.
Oh also, if you're going to change any belts or do any sort of a tune up to the engine, do it while it's out of the truck. It's just easier. And by the way, don't forget to put the oil drain plug in before you start pouring in oil. Ask me how i know.
Ok, so once you get the engine all prepped and ready to pop in, make sure your engine mounts are burned in, then pop the engine in and toss some bolts in it and go drive it. lol.
No but really once it's in, the crossmember was fairly simple to do. We used the original crossmember and built off that. We just used 2.5" 1/4 wall square tube and make a bracket that came up off that to the two mounting holes on the adapter off the back of the 4l60e. I then built a small bracket to add a little support to the np203. Not much more than a gusset that was welded to the crossmemeber that bolted to the tcase.
Fuel line was quite simple, I used a return less fuel rail on the engine in conjunction with a 98' corvette fuel filter which has a pressure regulator built into it. The return just clamps on and the feed clips together. I picked up a bunch of fittings which the numbers I'll post a bit later, but they pretty much convert everything to -6 an. Real simple stuff. I was also able to use a fitting to go from the Toyota line to a an style fitting. It didn't have a flare in it and it was made for an o ring style, but hey, I'm not a true land cruiser guy, I don't replace my head gasket as baseline maintenance... So I just found a fuel o ring that fit and than cranked the s*** down and crushed it to seal it together. 2000 miles and no leaks!
The vent that normally goes into the charcoal canister i just ran some hose on and put it so it drains out the bottom of the fender. I don't have to worry about emissions so i don't really care and it doesn't leak fuel so whatever.
Exhaust wasn't too bad, but I did have a shop do it, although for the way it turned out, I think I could have done a better job while drunk and passed out on my couch. It will be getting replaced this winter. The exhaust comes down on the pass side, runs in front of the engine around to drivers side, down the inside of the frame rail next to the tcase, between the gas tank and 60 case, over and around the drive shaft, then joins the stock exhaust and out. it works but the v8 probably wants more space than a crushed 2" piece of crap exhaust work.
My first attempt at power steering failed when I was wheeling it pretty hard on the trail and the line popped so when I got it back home after loosing about a gallon of power steering fluid on the trip home from MO I ended up just having a hydraulic shop make me a line for $25. However there are some fittings you can order from summit that turn everything in to AN style fittings so it's super easy to do. BTW, the GM pump on the toyota box is awesome. Tons of turning power even on stupid angles. I candy caned my drag link because of it!
Air intake is pretty ghetto. I just tossed some crappy stuff I found at pepboys in the I'm a ricer isle on it so it would filter the larger chunks of crap out of the air. This winter I'm going to put a nicer set up on it.
Coolant hoses perplexed me for a bit, but I figured it out. What I ended up doing was using parts of both. I picked up a hose from a silverado from carquest and trimmed off the top part of the inlet of the water pump so it was straight up, then put a copper 90 on it ran the silverado hose over the top backside of the radiator and used the Toyota part that came off and had a 90 or so in it, joined them with another copper piece (by the way half this truck is now made from ace hardware parts... don't judge!) and clamped everything together. On the bottom portion I just used a 18" universal flexible hose. The rest of the heater hoses, i just picked up 15 feet of heater hose and ran all of it around the engine bay so it works. I took the time to put in a helton heat exchanger inside the fender area as well. I also just used some 90 1/2" copper pieces to make the tight turns for the heater. (no one said it's not ghetto) btw, if your rear floor heater pipes are all rusted out take some time to just toss in some new hose. the GM water pump moves more than the Toyota and caused a small leak in mine. I'm probably not going to do anything about it though until it blows up and leaves me stranded on the highway 278 miles from absolutely nothing.
I haven't attempted a/c yet although I know a guy who knows a guy who robbed a guy and he said that it's not a big deal and I should just bring in all the GM and Toyota ends to his a/c shop and he'll make the hoses work.
Oh! Shifting the transmission and transfer cases is usually a concern to most people: I chose an Art Carr shifter and it's awesome. It's not completely installed yet, but it works great. Shifting my tcases requires climbing underneath the truck and swearing while someone else pushed the truck back and forth as I hope they'll eventually pop into or out of gear...
that's this winter's project. I just was too busy wheeling it to care about it yet.
Other than that, I can't think of much else. Drive shafts did have to be addressed, but not too much. I had the rear done with a bigger stronger tube, it had to be lengthened by about 4" and the front just needed the flange to be drilled out to accept the 80 series smaller pattern. No lengthening or shortening. I did have the ujoints replaced while they were out though.
That's all for now folks. I'll post up some part numbers of what I found to work and if you have any picture requests I'll look at them and determine how motivated I am to actually take pictures of it and then maybe post them if I feel up to it!
There's some decent info in here and the other few threads out there on this swap but I'll try to post up about specific things that I ran into and I'll eventually get all my part numbers into here as well.
The project has turned out pretty good so far, I'm at the athstetics part of the swap where it's putting all the little things back together and making it all nice looking again. But here's from the top.
Pulling the original drive train wasn't a bad job, 4rnr and I tackled it in a few hours. We pulled off all the obvious parts first and prepped as much as we could. No big deal here, I decided to keep everything together and it was actually pretty easy to pull engine trans and tcase out all at the same time. I didn't try to save any exhaust so I just lopped it off at the Y portion right after the exhaust manifold. I would suggest making sure that every bolt that you're going to need later, put back into the hole of where it came out. It's a great way to stay organized instead of forgetting what goes where or putting them into a bag or on a shelf and inevitably forgetting where it goes. Also remember that the trans/tcase are supported by the crossmember and you'll want to put some sort of a jack underneath them so you do crush yourself when you pull all of the bolts out of the crossmember and the whole back end of the power train fall down. (thankfully I didn't do that) Oh also, you'll probably want to have your A/C evacuated before you disconnect it and have it explode all over yourself. (learned the hard way)
Prepping the truck to accept the new engine and trans really didn't take much of anything. I cut off the old engine mounts with a cut off wheel and then ground everything flat with a flap wheel. Pulling off the sway bar was a bit of a help in moving the new parts in and out while lining things up. I currently don't run a sway bar and in fact part of my next project is to cut all that out for exhaust routing.
Anywho, while the engine was out and the majority of the engine bay was empty i decided to power wash as much of the truck as i could. I soaked everything in simple green and then washed it all down and it actually cleaned up a whole lot. Turned out really nice. Just plug the hole where the wires went to the ecu inside the cabin or you'll end up with a bunch of wet stuff behind your dash.
I took some time to yank a bunch of crap that I wasn't planning on using again like the charcoal canister, air intake bits, cruise control, gas pedal and cables...
After I picked up my new engine/trans/tcases, I spent some time putting things together and prepping all of that before I stuck it in (that's what she said). Here's what I learned from that.
When figuring out where to put your engine mounts, leave the headers off. It'll make it easier. There's really not more that a 1" variance on where you can put the engine mounts. My goal was to keep the engine as close to the firewall as possible so I can keep a manual fan. Success. tons o' room. I didn't worry about the rake that GM engine's usually require as I figured this could be addressed by the crossmemeber when it's time for that.
4rnr used his awesome welding skills to weld up the engine mounts which were adjustable mounts from dirty dingo. They worked really well. Super easy.
Finalizing the engine before I put it in for the last time here's some things to consider, put your headers on (i went with hooker block huggers, they tuck nicely between the frame rails which I couldn't find anything else that fit as well), make sure the fittings for your trans cooler and your lines are on before you put it in. It'll save you and hour and a half of swearing while you try to do it with the available 1.5" of room between the trans and the trans tunnel underneath the truck later.
Other things to consider before mount the engine:
Oil pan, oil pick up, windage tray, toss a filter on, check the starter, if you're changing the fuel rail, do it now although it's not too big a deal later, it's just always easier out of the truck. One of the biggest issues for me was also dealing with the VSS. My set up was different from everyone elses so I didn't have any parts that already accepted a vss. So, the 4" piece off the end of the 4wd 4l60e between the trans and tcase, i pulled off and had a machine shop drill and tap it so I could just screw a vss into that and then used a clamp on tone ring from AA. Works great. Sealed it in there with some hardening pipe thread locker sealant crap for steal pipes. Works well and keeps the crap out when wheeling.
Oh also, if you're going to change any belts or do any sort of a tune up to the engine, do it while it's out of the truck. It's just easier. And by the way, don't forget to put the oil drain plug in before you start pouring in oil. Ask me how i know.
Ok, so once you get the engine all prepped and ready to pop in, make sure your engine mounts are burned in, then pop the engine in and toss some bolts in it and go drive it. lol.
No but really once it's in, the crossmember was fairly simple to do. We used the original crossmember and built off that. We just used 2.5" 1/4 wall square tube and make a bracket that came up off that to the two mounting holes on the adapter off the back of the 4l60e. I then built a small bracket to add a little support to the np203. Not much more than a gusset that was welded to the crossmemeber that bolted to the tcase.
Fuel line was quite simple, I used a return less fuel rail on the engine in conjunction with a 98' corvette fuel filter which has a pressure regulator built into it. The return just clamps on and the feed clips together. I picked up a bunch of fittings which the numbers I'll post a bit later, but they pretty much convert everything to -6 an. Real simple stuff. I was also able to use a fitting to go from the Toyota line to a an style fitting. It didn't have a flare in it and it was made for an o ring style, but hey, I'm not a true land cruiser guy, I don't replace my head gasket as baseline maintenance... So I just found a fuel o ring that fit and than cranked the s*** down and crushed it to seal it together. 2000 miles and no leaks!
The vent that normally goes into the charcoal canister i just ran some hose on and put it so it drains out the bottom of the fender. I don't have to worry about emissions so i don't really care and it doesn't leak fuel so whatever.
Exhaust wasn't too bad, but I did have a shop do it, although for the way it turned out, I think I could have done a better job while drunk and passed out on my couch. It will be getting replaced this winter. The exhaust comes down on the pass side, runs in front of the engine around to drivers side, down the inside of the frame rail next to the tcase, between the gas tank and 60 case, over and around the drive shaft, then joins the stock exhaust and out. it works but the v8 probably wants more space than a crushed 2" piece of crap exhaust work.
My first attempt at power steering failed when I was wheeling it pretty hard on the trail and the line popped so when I got it back home after loosing about a gallon of power steering fluid on the trip home from MO I ended up just having a hydraulic shop make me a line for $25. However there are some fittings you can order from summit that turn everything in to AN style fittings so it's super easy to do. BTW, the GM pump on the toyota box is awesome. Tons of turning power even on stupid angles. I candy caned my drag link because of it!
Air intake is pretty ghetto. I just tossed some crappy stuff I found at pepboys in the I'm a ricer isle on it so it would filter the larger chunks of crap out of the air. This winter I'm going to put a nicer set up on it.
Coolant hoses perplexed me for a bit, but I figured it out. What I ended up doing was using parts of both. I picked up a hose from a silverado from carquest and trimmed off the top part of the inlet of the water pump so it was straight up, then put a copper 90 on it ran the silverado hose over the top backside of the radiator and used the Toyota part that came off and had a 90 or so in it, joined them with another copper piece (by the way half this truck is now made from ace hardware parts... don't judge!) and clamped everything together. On the bottom portion I just used a 18" universal flexible hose. The rest of the heater hoses, i just picked up 15 feet of heater hose and ran all of it around the engine bay so it works. I took the time to put in a helton heat exchanger inside the fender area as well. I also just used some 90 1/2" copper pieces to make the tight turns for the heater. (no one said it's not ghetto) btw, if your rear floor heater pipes are all rusted out take some time to just toss in some new hose. the GM water pump moves more than the Toyota and caused a small leak in mine. I'm probably not going to do anything about it though until it blows up and leaves me stranded on the highway 278 miles from absolutely nothing.
I haven't attempted a/c yet although I know a guy who knows a guy who robbed a guy and he said that it's not a big deal and I should just bring in all the GM and Toyota ends to his a/c shop and he'll make the hoses work.
Oh! Shifting the transmission and transfer cases is usually a concern to most people: I chose an Art Carr shifter and it's awesome. It's not completely installed yet, but it works great. Shifting my tcases requires climbing underneath the truck and swearing while someone else pushed the truck back and forth as I hope they'll eventually pop into or out of gear...
that's this winter's project. I just was too busy wheeling it to care about it yet.
Other than that, I can't think of much else. Drive shafts did have to be addressed, but not too much. I had the rear done with a bigger stronger tube, it had to be lengthened by about 4" and the front just needed the flange to be drilled out to accept the 80 series smaller pattern. No lengthening or shortening. I did have the ujoints replaced while they were out though.
That's all for now folks. I'll post up some part numbers of what I found to work and if you have any picture requests I'll look at them and determine how motivated I am to actually take pictures of it and then maybe post them if I feel up to it!
Nice account! Mine is still a work in progress. I intended to complete everything before putting it on the road but that plan fell through. It's now in DD service. I do have a/c but will go back and finish the PCM integration. Finally, just tonight I finished replacing one of the two cooling fans after the main fan motor smoked and seized up. It now has two new motors installed and cooling fine at 180f.
I shifted my np203 in my 40 with a cable shifter before I double sticked it.
- Thread starter
- #113
I'm actually thinking of doing a cable shifter set up with both of my cases. Not sure how it'll work with the 60 case but it may allow me to get the right angle on it instead of having to make some stupid shaped bracket.
- Thread starter
- #114
Finally back to work. Spent the weekend tinkering and fixing. Re-routing some of the heater hoses and making everything more better so I don't have to worry about it leaking or falling apart while daily driving it. Moved my heat exchanger and water pump for the on-board hot water. Put the stock toyota airbox back on it which looks a hell of a lot nicer than the silly 4-banger air filter I had before.
Sorted through the problems, rear drive shaft was bent, that's what caused the vibration. Dropped that off along with the front DS as well. Retubing the rear and the front I'm going to a solid shaft 1 1/4 dia. to fix the clearance issue with the trans pan. That should be done in a few days.
Transfer cases are all sorted out. New oil seals and now I have a nut on the end of the spindle behind the pto window on the split case. Didn't know one was required, hence the issue with it popping out of gear...
Going to build a custom center consol and put shifters together in that. Planning on doing cable shifters for all 3 levers. Trans seems to work great with it so why not.
I discovered the front control arms are loose so I need to tend to those. Maybe a broken bushing... I'll find out when I pull em. I bent the rears last year so I may pick up some rear arms from slee. they're not bad though, just a small tweak.
Replaced the front drag link. Nice and purty new steel there and nicely upgraded to .25wall DOM.
Putting on selectable hubs. I have a good one, I need parts for the other one and apparently you can't get those parts individually. which sucks... So I'm trying to source the cap for the hub.
I'm going to move my ECU into the engine bay as well. Bit of a pain since I'll have to disconnect all of the wiring and rewire the engine but that's alright. Time to do it right and fix all my half arsed crap from last year.
Last few things are exhaust and pulling out broken bolts that hold the rear seats in.
I'll toss some pictures up later tonight if I can remember.
Sorted through the problems, rear drive shaft was bent, that's what caused the vibration. Dropped that off along with the front DS as well. Retubing the rear and the front I'm going to a solid shaft 1 1/4 dia. to fix the clearance issue with the trans pan. That should be done in a few days.
Transfer cases are all sorted out. New oil seals and now I have a nut on the end of the spindle behind the pto window on the split case. Didn't know one was required, hence the issue with it popping out of gear...
Going to build a custom center consol and put shifters together in that. Planning on doing cable shifters for all 3 levers. Trans seems to work great with it so why not.
I discovered the front control arms are loose so I need to tend to those. Maybe a broken bushing... I'll find out when I pull em. I bent the rears last year so I may pick up some rear arms from slee. they're not bad though, just a small tweak.
Replaced the front drag link. Nice and purty new steel there and nicely upgraded to .25wall DOM.
Putting on selectable hubs. I have a good one, I need parts for the other one and apparently you can't get those parts individually. which sucks... So I'm trying to source the cap for the hub.
I'm going to move my ECU into the engine bay as well. Bit of a pain since I'll have to disconnect all of the wiring and rewire the engine but that's alright. Time to do it right and fix all my half arsed crap from last year.
Last few things are exhaust and pulling out broken bolts that hold the rear seats in.
I'll toss some pictures up later tonight if I can remember.
alia176
SILVER Star
Start taking some random pics and post them up, lol!! It's nice to see a V8 in that engine bay.
So, no radiator fan shroud for you? Clearance issues?
Doesn't Flojetrecommend mounting their pumps so that that motor is on top in case if a leak develops?
So, no radiator fan shroud for you? Clearance issues?
Doesn't Flojetrecommend mounting their pumps so that that motor is on top in case if a leak develops?
- Thread starter
- #117
I'll post up a few more as I'm doing re-assembly.
I yanked the wiring harness yesterday and I'm going to reroute all of the wires and attempt to do a nice neat job. Still trying to figure out how/where to mount the PCM in the engine bay. The damn computer is so freakin big... I've been looking at that video rockjock put up to get some ideas from his engine bay.
No fan shroud and it hasn't been an issue. Temp creeps a little bit in the summer months wheeling where the truck isn't really moving but really no issues. Haven't seen anything higher than 225. I liked the mechanical fan because it was easy and I don't have to worry about wiring. And I have a spare!
No idea on the flowjet thing. This way seemed to fit best because of the way the fender comes back in.
I yanked the wiring harness yesterday and I'm going to reroute all of the wires and attempt to do a nice neat job. Still trying to figure out how/where to mount the PCM in the engine bay. The damn computer is so freakin big... I've been looking at that video rockjock put up to get some ideas from his engine bay.
No fan shroud and it hasn't been an issue. Temp creeps a little bit in the summer months wheeling where the truck isn't really moving but really no issues. Haven't seen anything higher than 225. I liked the mechanical fan because it was easy and I don't have to worry about wiring. And I have a spare!
No idea on the flowjet thing. This way seemed to fit best because of the way the fender comes back in.
alia176
SILVER Star
Not sure if you mentioned this earlier but did you get the cruise control working? Since its DBW, I guess that's easy to do but making the system work with Toyota CC steering wheel wiring is challenging.
- Thread starter
- #119
No, Haven't started on that. What my plan is, to install a switch on the dash for set and then just have the brake as off. I don't think there's any way at all to get the Toyota system to match. From what I remember reading is the toyota system bases everything on ohms/resistance based on speed and the GM stuff looks at actual speed from the pcm.
- Thread starter
- #120
OK, so I hope one of you guys can add some insight...
I picked up 2 dakota digital converters, one for speed and one for tach.
Is it really as simple as input from the GM ecu to output splicing into the wire right before the connector that goes into the gauge cluster?
If so, way cool.
The way I'm reading this is;
For speed, splice into the light blue - White wire, connecter C13 pin 11
For Tach, splice into the black wire Connecter c11 pin 11
Yes, no, 646 then try?
I picked up 2 dakota digital converters, one for speed and one for tach.
Is it really as simple as input from the GM ecu to output splicing into the wire right before the connector that goes into the gauge cluster?
If so, way cool.
The way I'm reading this is;
For speed, splice into the light blue - White wire, connecter C13 pin 11
For Tach, splice into the black wire Connecter c11 pin 11
Yes, no, 646 then try?
