1994 FZJ80 From Snow to Desert Building up the 80!!

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now the car at the rally!

David Giraldo on Instagram: “Muchas gracias a @Fredymejia24 por el vídeo!!! Se pasó una chimba!”

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ewillis said:
For electric actuating lockers, you can swap in OE locked axles or go with Harrop/Eaton

Oh yes I did! Harrop/Eaton E-Locker thread
Click to expand...

yeah! that is basically the exact set up im looking for.

This truck already has automatic rear locker, but i do use it a lot in the city and find it dificult to drive. If i accelerate on a corner I feel the traction kicking in and loosing a bit of control, when it rains it does not feel safe. I do not know what it has installed since i did not do it myself but its automatic.

what is your experience driving in the city with this locker?

thanks mate!
 
LSDbrand said:
yeah! that is basically the exact set up im looking for.

This truck already has automatic rear locker, but i do use it a lot in the city and find it dificult to drive. If i accelerate on a corner I feel the traction kicking in and loosing a bit of control, when it rains it does not feel safe. I do not know what it has installed since i did not do it myself but its automatic.

what is your experience driving in the city with this locker?

thanks mate!
Click to expand...

Not sure what you have in the rear, but searching on this site would generally reveal that an Aussie or Lokka locker is typically pretty much "transparent" in the heavy 80 series except in tight cornering situations. I do not have 1st hand experience with either of them as I just installed the Harrop this morning. With the Harrop though...it operates exactly as an open diff would until switched to "Beast Mode"!
 
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ewillis said:
Not sure what you have in the rear, but searching on this site would generally reveal that an Aussie or Lokka locker is typically pretty much "transparent" in the heavy 80 series except in tight cornering situations. I do not have 1st hand experience with either of them as I just installed the Harrop this morning. With the Harrop though...it operates exactly as an open diff would until switched to "Beast Mode"!
Click to expand...
My understanding of automatic lockers is they lock immediately when you push the gas.

So the problem really is 3rd world roads in colombia. The roads are not always very even or well design to star with so when you are doing 80 on a corner that is 90 degree and a truck with a container is coming on the opposite direction on a 2 way road with each lane being nearly as wide as thistl Toyota, you feel the diff kicking in when you press the gas on the corner. Jajaja

If it was a nice wide road with American cambers I'm sure it would be no issue. Please do let am know if you do feel any locking on the corners when you accelerate.

Thanks men.
 
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Today a new thing was fixed.

The emergency brake was not braking very well and it would not hold the vehicles weight.

After changing the inner drum brake (no idea what the proper name is in English) it made no difference and it as still bad.

It turns out it was a small metal rectangle that transfer the weight of the brake to the 2 drum pads

Pictures are attaches.

What was happening is this sheet of metal has 2 indents on each side. Each indent hooks into the drums pads,so when one of the brake pads touches the drum the metal sheet gets pushed and it pushes the other of to the other side of the drum.

The fix was to put some welding on it and grind it to make the indent smaller. It's a common problem on 20 year old car. The indent gets worn out.

Of corse make sure you meshes the depth before the welding and accommodate from there.
 
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Some progress today. Y finally changed the tires!!!

New 315/75r16 35in equivalent!

I had to change the rims since the ones that came with the Toyota had been widen 2 inches! This made the rim 10in wide and it was scratching the outside of the tires with the inside of the fender. On the old 33in tires.

I managed to get Toyota OEM steel tires with the same backspace and the original 8in wide. They are from a FJ70.

I decided on Mickey Thomson ATZ after much debate. I have had Yokohama Geolander MT. Mickey Thomson MTZ. Maxxis bighorn.

I ended up design on this based on a very helpful review from the Jeep Comunity.

Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 315/70/17 Review. - Jeep Wrangler Forum

I have 33 on my FJ70 and with the supercharger the car can deinstalled handle 35 so I pulled the trigger and I'm very very happy.
 
Nice LC!

I just spent a month travelling around Colombia and can tell you that it is indeed Landcruiser heaven, saw more beautiful cruisers in a month there than in 10 years in Canada, cant imagine what it must be like to be able to work on one there!

You can even buy lc70's new from the Toyota dealership, I've seen a few of them done up so well down here. You should export LHD cruisers to North America!

Good luck with your build
 
Ok, some time without an update. I had the time to put in the front winch! it was kinda funky since the warn is to tall I had to move the bumper 2 inches forward to make sure it did not touch the car.

I ended up soldering a couple of 3/16" steel plates to the bumper to make sure the winch pull from the frame and not just the front of the bumper, just to give it better grip.

Also, the bumper was not tall enough so i also did a funky taller plate, its not the pretties, i can fix it later, but it works!

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Next i did the rear swing arm for the tire and fuel tank. I looked a lot over the web and im not really a fan of a spindle with the bearing and everything.

I believe its hard for it to fail since it is almost always closed but the price and work that is needed to fit the spindle does not work for me. I decided to go with a top and bottom bracket with a 1" bolt to go thru and a 2 bearing on top and bottom to make sure it turns, I actually wanted to just put bronze bushings because a bearing is a huge over kill for something that moves max 3 times a day if you really need to open and close at a speed of 0.0001 m/s. But....bearing were actually cheaper than the bushings.

as for security i found this spring loaded pin, super cheap and functional, there is one on each side of the swing arm, so one hold the arm in lock as an extra safety feature, and the other one pins into place once the arm is at 90º to keep it there.

http://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Components-AI1-2T1-5-B-TR6-included/dp/B00GAZQJ0O?tag=ihco-20

For the lock, I went with a latch, but for some reason, Slee off road and almost everyone does it wrong, I belive.

A latch only generates force in one direction, in the direction for the latch, It does so by generating presure in the form of an odd angle with the main pivot point. To the idea is to have the latch go in the direction of the arms movement.

For some reason, Slee Off Road does it in the exact opposite direction, it locks the swing arm vertically, so in theory, the latch is holding it in place with the friction of the arm and the bumper stop, this is dangerous because the latch will eventually develop play in the bushings of the pivots since its being forced to move in the direction were it has no function.

I did read several people having failure of the latch and i believe the reason is the direction.

another thing i could do was to put a U made out ouf 2 pieces of angle to hold the arm in place when its closed, so even if there is flex on the arm from weight it has stops on top and bottom so its super sturdy

If anyone has an explanation please let me know. I love to learn


here are some pics and video





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Hello guys

Im sorry I havent put much info on the post for some time, but I was out traveling! I finished the first part of the trip which was to the Caribbean of Colombia. Here are the Pictures and story
 
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