Builds 1994 FZJ80 5.3l and 4L60e swap (1 Viewer)

[rockrod]

update:
Started doing two things. I pulled the fuel pump assembly in preparation for swapping the pump with a high pressure/volume unit to keep up with the motor:

new pump and install kit

Pulled assembly from tank after removing rear seats and carpet

pump assembly on the work bench. I also have to install a fuel tank pressure sensor for emissions

I also started working on stripping the 1FZ engine harness down. I spent the last few days translating the EWD over to a simple spread sheet with the connector diagram, wire colors, and circuit:

one of my spread sheets

 

[epike7915]

I would love a copy of your spreadsheets when finished if you are going to share. I would also be interested in one of your harnesses after you are completed. (I assume 93 would be the same as your 94)

E.

 

[rockrod]

I would love a copy of your spreadsheets when finished if you are going to share. I would also be interested in one of your harnesses after you are completed. (I assume 93 would be the same as your 94)

E.

the '93 and '94 are the same.

 

[peauafi]

hey are you a jet ranger pilot?

 

[RockJock82]

What fuel pump did you end up going with?

 

[rockrod]

What fuel pump did you end up going with?

I went with a walbro 255 litre per hour pump, part number FPT008 from this supplier:

Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more

It's a direct swap for the stock pump. I haven't completed the pump swap yet because I am waiting for the fuel tank pressure sensor to install as well.

 

[rockrod]

A little more progress on the 1FZ harness prep...

This is the discard:

These two harness lead to the IH1 and IH2 connectors that make the connection to the body harness behind the glove box:

There will be 5 connections made between the IH1 and IH2 harnesses and the Vortec PCM harness. I will show these later.

 

[warpdriv]

Progress is looking good. I'm sure you thought of this but save all the plastic looming so you can reuse it.

 

[RockJock82]

I went with a walbro 255 litre per hour pump, part number FPT008 from this supplier:

Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more

It's a direct swap for the stock pump. I haven't completed the pump swap yet because I am waiting for the fuel tank pressure sensor to install as well.

Damn thats a good deal and direct replacement even better...

 

[rockrod]

Progress is looking good. I'm sure you thought of this but save all the plastic looming so you can reuse it.

i tried - but most of the loom disintegrated. that tape they used is ridiculous. i can't get the residue off my fingers.

 

[rockrod]

well - what do you know....
look what showed up last night - two months after ordering:

I also ordered a Delta Current Control variable speed control for the fans. It took about 3 weeks to get:

Now I can get down to business!

 

[rockrod]

so here we go.
Here's the components to the Mark's adapter - Advanced Adapters is the US distributor for these and as far as I know, Mark's is the only company making an adapter for this t-case.

The kit actually consists of 3 adapters to make up the connection.



This first adapter is to convert the late model 4L60e 6 bolt pattern to a 4 bolt pattern that is identical to a TH350 or 700R4/early 4L60.



After installing the 6 to 4 bolt ring, you measure out 151mm from the mounting face of the 6:4 bolt ring and mark your output shaft for the cut. This is why Mark's specs out a 2wd trans - a 4wd would have an output shaft that is too short to use.



This is about where the spud shaft that converts the 4L60e output shaft over to the correct spline to engage the 80 t-case.



chop chop with a carbide cutoff wheel. I did this with my small makita hand grinder in short order. The output shaft is hardened about 1/16 of an inch and the inner steel is not hardened. You could not do this with a saw-zall. The cut off wheel is required.





Dress it up a little and bevel the splines after the cut.



And on goes the spud shaft.

 

[rockrod]

Now we install the cast aluminum spacer tube - this serves to allow for a place for the GM VSS to read the tone ring on the output shaft and also to position the 80 t-case in the stock location in relation to the cross member and drive shaft length.



I had to shorten an allen key so that it would fit to tighten the bolts. I also used red loctite - I do not want these bolts backing out for any reason. I also used some silicon to seal the adapter to the trans case.





Next we install the actual adapter that will eventually accept the 80 t-case. This adapter is a big hunk of machined aluminum. Here you can see the bolts threading in to secure it to the spacer.



In goes the spud shaft



And viola, it's seated in the correct position to mimic the stock A442 that used to drive the t-case.

 

[rockrod]

So here is where an issue exists.



The holes don't line up for this plate. The plate is supposed to serve as a mounting surface for the t-case shifter. The source of the mis-alignment is the cast side of the tower. It's not square to the 4 bolt pattern. Some quick massaging with the soft wheel and problemo solved.

 

[rockrod]

here's the finished install - just need the t-case and then into the cruiser it goes.



I also swapped the MLPS out for the correct one to match my wire harness.



the little nub I cut off from the output shaft



I swapped out the stock trans cooler fitting for some -06 AN/JIC fittings. Be careful with these - the threads ARE NOT tapered pipe thread, but rather a strait pipe thread and use a crush washer to seal. Using TP will cause the case to break.

 

[CO_Hunter]

Great write up, good luck with the build!

Any idea on where your final fuel economy will land you and a guess as to the final cost of the project? Yes I know that last one is a loaded question, I've done this type of thing before as well.

 

[rockrod]

Great write up, good luck with the build!

Any idea on where your final fuel economy will land you and a guess as to the final cost of the project? Yes I know that last one is a loaded question, I've done this type of thing before as well.

final cost in parts will probably run about $6500 maybe more. I have all of the major components now. The rest is just misc stuff.

Fuel economy is not my motivation for this swap. power is. If it does at least as well as it did pre-swap, I am good with that.

 

[MANUCHAO]

On post 53.
I snapped two of those allen head bolts on a similar AA.
I was able to pull the remains out and used 6 point 8th grade bolts like the ones shown on the same picture (sitting on the table).
May it I was the exception and over torque them or maybe they came loose and snapped... I dont know..
I went with 8th grade since and has been great...

Nice build you got there BTW....

 

[RockJock82]

here's the finished install - just need the t-case and then into the cruiser it goes.

[URL="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0627.jpg"][/URL]

I also swapped the MLPS out for the correct one to match my wire harness.

[URL="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0628.jpg"][/URL]

the little nub I cut off from the output shaft

[URL="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0615.jpg"][/URL]

I swapped out the stock trans cooler fitting for some -06 AN/JIC fittings. Be careful with these - the threads ARE NOT tapered pipe thread, but rather a strait pipe thread and use a crush washer to seal. Using TP will cause the case to break.

[URL="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0606.jpg"][/URL]

Man its looking good! Im so jealous I cant wait to swap my 5.3L in my Lexus...

 

[rockrod]

thanks! this project is taking some time to complete. I just don't have a lot of spare time to be wrenching right now so I only get to grab a 1/2 here or there. The trans is actually sitting under the cruiser on a tranny jack right now. I plan on lifting it up into position tomorrow.

I still need to finish cleaning off the 1FZ engine mount stands from the frame. I cut them off the other day with a sawzall but need to go back and finish it up and prep the surface for welding the AA mounts in place. I will feel really good about where things stand once the engine is sitting the engine bay and bolted up to the trans. I was going to mate the t-case up before rolling the trans in place but decided to install the t-case afterwards. Those parts are friggin heavy to try and manage as a single unit.