Have you assembled it without the big butterfly? I thought that was needed for the TPS and throttle? I don't actually know always just assumed it was needed, be good to know if theres any improvement without it
Builds 1993 LJ71 in NYC: Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter misterclean
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- #22
Before wrapping up for the day, Dad finished up the blanking plates as well as tapping the exhaust side for the pyrometer probe. Next wrenching session, we'll be getting these plates installed so we can wrap up the EGR delete. I also plan to clean up all the the tubing/wiring associated with the gauge install that is under the hood. The white nylon boost gauge tubing bothers me, so I'll likely use the intake tube vacuum line to re-route the gauge t-junction over to the exhaust side.
Question: does anyone have recommendations on how to effectively plug the coolant tubes going in and out of the throttle body as well as on the opposite side at the water pipe/thermostat housing? I'm unsure if these can simply all be capped off, or otherwise.
Question: does anyone have recommendations on how to effectively plug the coolant tubes going in and out of the throttle body as well as on the opposite side at the water pipe/thermostat housing? I'm unsure if these can simply all be capped off, or otherwise.
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- #23
Yes, I reinstalled the throttle body with both large and small butterfly valves removed. Some fellow 2LTE owners on here recommended the removal of both butterflies for more low-end torque response. No adverse effects or rough shutdowns were reported. I'll report back on my personal experience with this once I finish the entire EGR removal job.
I removed the small one awhile ago, didn't realise they both could go. Good to know
Looking good! With respect to the coolant lines you should be able to either pull the hoses off and put plugs on the hose barbs, or get a hose union and simply join them together.
When removing the large butterfly valve be gentle with the shaft and the TPS on the end of it; disturbing the position of the TPS or bending the shaft could cause the TPS to lose calibration. Like @misterclean said the screws that hold the large butterfly on are peened on the back so they can't unscrew. They have to be ground off or drilled out.I removed the small one awhile ago, didn't realise they both could go. Good to know
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- #27
Thank you! I pulled the hoses off and will plug the barbs with some end caps I just purchased. Looking forward to getting this completed and seeing my initial pyro readings!
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- #28
Finished up reassembly after the EGR delete. Here are some photos.
Plugged up the vacuum line running across the valve cover for now, but still plan on using it to move my boost gauge fitting to the exhaust side of the engine for a cleaner look. Pyrometer probe install also went well, and now all gauges in the pillar pod are working.
Water temp is around 180-190F, and the thermostat is working as it should. EGTs at idle are 250-300F - much lower than I expected and I'm happy to see that.
My observations on the short test drive after the EGR delete: shutdown is no more or less rough than it was prior to removing the system along with the butterfly valves. I do notice increased torque when accelerating from a stop, though it's a small difference. I'm happy to have everything put back together with the engine running well.
Plugged up the vacuum line running across the valve cover for now, but still plan on using it to move my boost gauge fitting to the exhaust side of the engine for a cleaner look. Pyrometer probe install also went well, and now all gauges in the pillar pod are working.
Water temp is around 180-190F, and the thermostat is working as it should. EGTs at idle are 250-300F - much lower than I expected and I'm happy to see that.
My observations on the short test drive after the EGR delete: shutdown is no more or less rough than it was prior to removing the system along with the butterfly valves. I do notice increased torque when accelerating from a stop, though it's a small difference. I'm happy to have everything put back together with the engine running well.
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- #29
On one of my recent trips to the junkyard with Dad, he found a Blaupunkt touchscreen radio in one of the cars. Since he wanted a backup camera, this radio would fit the bill. It also plays DVDs and has an actual volume knob, nice to have over the touch controls of the pricier units. This will do for now, and not bad for $30 including a Toyota stereo harness that we also sourced from the yard! Planning to upgrade to a Pioneer NEX headunit down the line, but at least there's a working radio with US stations in the car now. It did take some modifying of the metal mounting "ears" to get the radio to sit perfectly with the plastic radio bezel, but after an afternoon of adjustments, the install looks clean!
Got the intermittent clock working too. Turned out to be a temperamental fuse. Glad we don’t have to remove it and repair it.
Dad bought a catch can from Amazon and although the first one arrived with some parts missing, the second one arrived just fine. Paired with some hose from Autozone as the included ones didn’t fit and now it’s good to go. Hopefully the catch can along with the EGR delete will keep the intake free of oil.
Timing belt is up next. After studying the factory service manual posted here, it looks to be a straightforward job. I’m budgeting an additional half day to repaint the radiator and clean parts of the engine bay we otherwise would not be able to with all the accessories and fan in the way.
Got the intermittent clock working too. Turned out to be a temperamental fuse. Glad we don’t have to remove it and repair it.
Dad bought a catch can from Amazon and although the first one arrived with some parts missing, the second one arrived just fine. Paired with some hose from Autozone as the included ones didn’t fit and now it’s good to go. Hopefully the catch can along with the EGR delete will keep the intake free of oil.
Timing belt is up next. After studying the factory service manual posted here, it looks to be a straightforward job. I’m budgeting an additional half day to repaint the radiator and clean parts of the engine bay we otherwise would not be able to with all the accessories and fan in the way.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Turns out the clock was suffering from more than a questionable fuse. It was working fine last week, but after a day or two without use, it began to malfunction. Instead of being completely dead this time, it would only activate the stopwatch function and not display time.
Pulled the clock for Dad to take a look at. These are his favorite things to tinker with. He found 3 bad capacitors and replaced them with new ones from his stash - not too long later, the clock was working again.
Dad ordered a backup camera from AliExpress, and I used that as an opportunity to also install some NVX 4" speakers leftover from a previous project into the front dash. I used some 1/4" nylon spacers when mounting them so the tweeter wouldn't press up against the metal dash grills.
The camera turned out to be dead on arrival. Amazon Prime came to the rescue with an overnight delivery of an alternative option. Got that wired up and working. We mounted it to the freshly painted metal license plate light bracket, tucked away for an OEM+ look. The wide viewing angle is still very good, and will be quite helpful when parallel parking in and around the city. Topped off with a new "TOYOTA 4WD" Trim Piece, the rear tailgate is looking pretty clean! The larger door sags a bit when opening it, which looks to be a bad lower hinge. Adding that to the next Partsouq order.
Camera install a few feet away:
Pulled the clock for Dad to take a look at. These are his favorite things to tinker with. He found 3 bad capacitors and replaced them with new ones from his stash - not too long later, the clock was working again.
Dad ordered a backup camera from AliExpress, and I used that as an opportunity to also install some NVX 4" speakers leftover from a previous project into the front dash. I used some 1/4" nylon spacers when mounting them so the tweeter wouldn't press up against the metal dash grills.
The camera turned out to be dead on arrival. Amazon Prime came to the rescue with an overnight delivery of an alternative option. Got that wired up and working. We mounted it to the freshly painted metal license plate light bracket, tucked away for an OEM+ look. The wide viewing angle is still very good, and will be quite helpful when parallel parking in and around the city. Topped off with a new "TOYOTA 4WD" Trim Piece, the rear tailgate is looking pretty clean! The larger door sags a bit when opening it, which looks to be a bad lower hinge. Adding that to the next Partsouq order.
Camera install a few feet away:
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- #31
Camera close up, at night:
Nighttime view:
The speakers in the rear turned out to be OEM - paper cones turned so yellow that at first glance, I thought they were some aftermarket kevlar units. Not wanting to re-install them, we found some 5 1/4" Memphis coaxials in the speaker stash that I scored from the pick-n-pull junkyard. I added foam baffles to all four speakers, reassembled everything, and Dad and I called the stereo build "complete" for now.
It definitely needs a subwoofer and some external amplification, but I haven't decided what I'd like to run for a box yet. On my LJ78, we had fabbed up a custom bracket to "float" a JBL BassPro Nano and 4-Channel NVX amplifier under the passenger seat. Not sure if we'll do that again or go for a rear-mounted box this time.
Photos of my old LJ78 setup:
Both the amp and subwoofer floated above the floor, sliding backwards and forwards along the seat rail with the seat bottom:
Last thing I tried out were some "ceramic" LED bulbs I got on promo from TheRetrofitSource. They are lit up in the photo of the left tail light above - the beam pattern isn't as good nor as bright as the normal halogen bulbs, so I'll be taking it out and saving them for another project. Dad ordered some amber ones for the front corner lights, maybe those will be better.
By the way, we found some vertical play in both front wheels after jacking it up today. Does anyone have insight to this? I suspect bad wheel bearings and Dad suspects a bushing has gone bad. Could it be both?
Nighttime view:
The speakers in the rear turned out to be OEM - paper cones turned so yellow that at first glance, I thought they were some aftermarket kevlar units. Not wanting to re-install them, we found some 5 1/4" Memphis coaxials in the speaker stash that I scored from the pick-n-pull junkyard. I added foam baffles to all four speakers, reassembled everything, and Dad and I called the stereo build "complete" for now.
It definitely needs a subwoofer and some external amplification, but I haven't decided what I'd like to run for a box yet. On my LJ78, we had fabbed up a custom bracket to "float" a JBL BassPro Nano and 4-Channel NVX amplifier under the passenger seat. Not sure if we'll do that again or go for a rear-mounted box this time.
Photos of my old LJ78 setup:
Both the amp and subwoofer floated above the floor, sliding backwards and forwards along the seat rail with the seat bottom:
Last thing I tried out were some "ceramic" LED bulbs I got on promo from TheRetrofitSource. They are lit up in the photo of the left tail light above - the beam pattern isn't as good nor as bright as the normal halogen bulbs, so I'll be taking it out and saving them for another project. Dad ordered some amber ones for the front corner lights, maybe those will be better.
By the way, we found some vertical play in both front wheels after jacking it up today. Does anyone have insight to this? I suspect bad wheel bearings and Dad suspects a bushing has gone bad. Could it be both?
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Vertical play at the front wheel is most likely loose wheel bearings. You might be able to just repack them if the bearings are in decent shape, but new bearings aren't expensive, either.
When you jacked it up, was it sitting on the axle or the frame? If you jacked up the axle you wouldn't be able to feel worn bushings at the wheel. The only bushings in the front end are the panhard rod and radius arm bushings.
When you jacked it up, was it sitting on the axle or the frame? If you jacked up the axle you wouldn't be able to feel worn bushings at the wheel. The only bushings in the front end are the panhard rod and radius arm bushings.
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- #33
@AirheadNut thank you! I had the car sitting on the frame. I'm going to see if Dad ordered bearings along with the knuckle rebuild kit - I'd rather just change these out while we're in there versus taking a chance with the repack. You're right, the bearings are cheap enough!
I "try" to limit delving into the knuckles until something needs to be addressed, then do it all at the same time... so whatever goes first... seals, bearings or brakes... then do it ALL when going in for whatever needed to be done while your in there.
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- #35
Good call! Speaking of brakes, Dad's order from Rockauto just came in today. Going with FJ60 Rotors with 2nd Gen 4Runner pads in the front. Ordered 1st Gen Sequoia pads and rotors for the rear. Hopefully we can get the knuckle rebuild squared away before the Dobinsons suspension arrives!
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- #36
Dad and I started working on the the timing belt replacement and currently more than halfway through - need to install the new V-belts and re-mount the AC compressor and bracket.
What we found was pretty good news - the timing belt was replaced with quality parts not too long ago. The radiator was clean of debris, Mitsuboshi belt, DriveJoy water pump, and NTN bearings were still in very good condition, and the coolant was still good too. Of course, with all the replacement parts on hand and everything already disassembled, we opted to replace versus reinstall.
New parts in addition to a timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, and spring were the guide pulley, cam and front crankshaft seal, and crankshaft pulley bolt. Also managed to clean up the components we removed a bit using a parts washer scored off of FB Marketplace for $40. I also took advantage of the radiator being out to repaint it as well as apply POR15 to the condenser brackets and a few of the frame welds that had some surface rust.
Looking forward to getting this wrapped up soon as Dad is highly motivated to tackle the knuckle/front axle rebuild once this is complete!
What we found was pretty good news - the timing belt was replaced with quality parts not too long ago. The radiator was clean of debris, Mitsuboshi belt, DriveJoy water pump, and NTN bearings were still in very good condition, and the coolant was still good too. Of course, with all the replacement parts on hand and everything already disassembled, we opted to replace versus reinstall.
New parts in addition to a timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, and spring were the guide pulley, cam and front crankshaft seal, and crankshaft pulley bolt. Also managed to clean up the components we removed a bit using a parts washer scored off of FB Marketplace for $40. I also took advantage of the radiator being out to repaint it as well as apply POR15 to the condenser brackets and a few of the frame welds that had some surface rust.
Looking forward to getting this wrapped up soon as Dad is highly motivated to tackle the knuckle/front axle rebuild once this is complete!
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- #37
Got everything finished up today. We also changed all four V-belts and both idler pulleys. I took apart the fan clutch and topped it up with OEM 10,000CST oil. The cleaned and repainted radiator went back on and was filled with non-diluted Toyota Red coolant. Overall a straightforward job with the help of this forum, YouTube, and the Factory Service Manual.
The truck is back up and running again, and it feels so much better to drive knowing that the belt is brand new! Some pics below.
I believe we're missing a special socket before the front knuckles can be rebuilt. While we're in there, the front brakes are being replaced as well as the front wheel bearings with NOS pieces Dad recently bought from eBay. We will also be replacing the diff fluid with some synthetic Valvoline 74W90. I'm looking forward to finally trying out the pouches that Valvoline puts their gear oil in! More to come.
The truck is back up and running again, and it feels so much better to drive knowing that the belt is brand new! Some pics below.
I believe we're missing a special socket before the front knuckles can be rebuilt. While we're in there, the front brakes are being replaced as well as the front wheel bearings with NOS pieces Dad recently bought from eBay. We will also be replacing the diff fluid with some synthetic Valvoline 74W90. I'm looking forward to finally trying out the pouches that Valvoline puts their gear oil in! More to come.
Good work. Knock out the necessary baselining. Mandatory for all 7x trucks.
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- #39
Started working on the knuckle rebuild and managed to get the left side disassembled, cleaned, and ready for reassembly. We found a slight groove in the axle as well as the birfield and although I think everything is still serviceable, I just want to make sure. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I've seen worse axle-wise here, so I do not think sleeving or JB Weld is necessary for this particular one. However, I haven't managed to find discussions on the birfield grooves.
How it started:
Progress so far:
After first round of cleaning:
Axle & birfield grooves:
How it started:
Progress so far:
After first round of cleaning:
Axle & birfield grooves:
Looking good!
