Builds Sold! Land Crusher - 1993 FZJ80 3x Locked - Introduction and Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[Will Van]

Before you go replacing the head unit, consider going this route. I just bought a 94 FZJ80 a couple weeks back and this little Bluetooth receiver works perfectly and sounds great. Definitely replace the speakers, but the stock head unit doesn’t HAVE to go and if you’re like me and have a newer iPhone, this allows you to still charge your phone on the road while you listen (not possible with the cassette adapter). Best $18 I’ve spent so far. Just make sure to keep the sound lower on the head unit and then if you need to turn it up, do it on the bluetooth or the phone. Much clearer sound that way. It even does hands-free calls.

Nulaxy Wireless In-Car Bluetooth FM Transmitter Radio Adapter Car Kit W 1.44 Inch Display Supports TF/SD Card and USB Car Charger for All Smartphones Audio Players https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018E0I01I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I should have mentioned, the truck already has an aftermarket Alpine HU.

Also, the savvy observer will notice the second "ECT" switch on the left. The PO did the pin-7 mod and added the "CDL switch. I confirmed that the second ECT switch on the left actually engages the center diff, and I've already ordered the correct CDL switch (Toyota PN: 84725-60010), because I'm OCD.

 

[Red Merle]

I should have mentioned, the truck already has an aftermarket Alpine HU.

Also, the savvy observer will notice the second "ECT" switch on the left. The PO did the pin-7 mod and added the "CDL switch. I confirmed that the second ECT switch on the left actually engages the center diff, and I've already ordered the correct CDL switch (Toyota PN: 84725-60010), because I'm OCD.

Nice! This thing is looking better and better the more we learn about it. Maybe they already upgraded the speakers too?

Just an FYI, the reason so many people just go with the cheap Pioneer speakers is because the speaker depth on these trucks is an issue and there haven't been too many speakers beyond the Pioneer ones that people have found to work without getting into more cutting and modifying the door cards, etc.

 

[Will Van]

The pioneer speaker mod is an easy and worthwhile one. I ended up using a Pioneer deck (single DIN with pocket below) and under the seat subwoofer and the whole system was less than $500. I wouldn't say this particular subwoofer is the best if you want a lot of bass, but rather it does a good job of filling in on the lower frequency where the little speakers fall off (also it was easy to install). A modern deck is a huge plus since it works with your phone, bluetooth, pandora, spotify, etc...

Deck
Subwoofer
Harness Adapter
Rear Speakers
Front Speakers

Dig into the stereo threads a bit for more detail but overall the install was easy. If you plan to install a CDL switch do it at the same time since the dash will be apart. Also if you plan to install a sub do it at the same time to avoid tearing everything back apart again (like I did). Also note that the front speakers on the bottom of the dash are worthless and should be disconnected. The same goes for the top speakers in the very back. These share a signal from the door speakers and will sap power from your newly installed speakers and turn it into distortion. Also disconnect the factory amp since it will not be needed.

Nice! This thing is looking better and better the more we learn about it. Maybe they already upgraded the speakers too?

Just an FYI, the reason so many people just go with the cheap Pioneer speakers is because the speaker depth on these trucks is an issue and there haven't been too many speakers beyond the Pioneer ones that people have found to work without getting into more cutting and modifying the door cards, etc.

Thank you for all of the help! I'm going to wait on the stereo until I get the truck back and can recover a little bit from the truck purchase, mechanical maintenance, tires, bumper, and lift. For now, I want it to be mechanically sound and safe to drive. I'm sure there will be even more stuff (besides the stereo) that I'll want to address once I start driving it.

Thank you again, guys. I really appreciate all of the help!

 

[Red Merle]

Thank you for all of the help! I'm going to wait on the stereo until I get the truck back and can recover a little bit from the truck purchase, mechanical maintenance, tires, bumper, and lift. For now, I want it to be mechanically sound and safe to drive. I'm sure there will be even more stuff (besides the stereo) that I'll want to address once I start driving it.

Thank you again, guys. I really appreciate all of the help!

I was going to mention that nobody can say that you aren't holding up your end of the donkey when it comes to keeping the economy strong at the moment.

I know the feeling. I blew through about $9 grand in the first 4 months of owning my truck. It has settled down considerably since then though and I don't regret any of it. Just makes me appreciate the truck all that much more.

 

[Will Van]

Oh! One more thing I know I'm going to want to fix - The faux wood paneling trim in the truck (around stereo, window switches, A/C vents, etc.) is delaminating and looks terrible. Plus I hate the way it looks even if it was in good condition. Does anyone make replacement trim in plain plastic?

 

[Red Merle]

Oh! One more thing I know I'm going to want to fix - The faux wood paneling trim in the truck (around stereo, window switches, A/C vents, etc.) is delaminating and looks terrible. Plus I hate the way it looks even if it was in good condition. Does anyone make replacement trim in plain plastic?

You'll have to look around for kits. It doesn't seem like there are many options and the ones from Toyota are ridiculously expensive(like $750 ridiculous). Some guys just use a heat gun and remove them and there is usually writing under the laminates on the door controls that say whatever the writing says on the laminates. It's actually real wood under there though. The raised appearance has a specific name that I can't recall right now is called a "domed decal", but others have said there are ways of making new pieces that have that look.

 

[jfz80]

Oh! One more thing I know I'm going to want to fix - The faux wood paneling trim in the truck (around stereo, window switches, A/C vents, etc.) is delaminating and looks terrible. Plus I hate the way it looks even if it was in good condition. Does anyone make replacement trim in plain plastic?

There is "plain plastic" under the faux trim. Peel trim with hair dryer if needed, simple green, scrub with cloth to remove glue, polish it up.

Otherwise there are some carbon fiber and polished aluminum and other effects other than wood avail. Lil google should find something.

 

[Will Van]

There is "plain plastic" under the faux trim. Peel trim with hair dryer if needed, simple green, scrub with cloth to remove glue, polish it up.

Otherwise there are some carbon fiber and polished aluminum and other effects other than wood avail. Lil google should find something.

Thank you! I may look for polished aluminum and try to get them powder coated. That would be slick!

Edit: I'm going to try to use a heat gun and just remove the factory wood trim.

 

[Will Van]

I'm reading horror stories about the Port-Installed roof racks and the nutserts rusting. Should I put a roof-rack delete/weld at the top of my priority list?

Here are examples of other trucks with factory roof-rack rust:

 

[Red Merle]

I'm reading horror stories about the Port-Installed roof racks and the nutserts rusting. Should I put a roof-rack delete/weld at the top of my priority list?

Are those pics of your truck? If so, I would address that pronto. Otherwise, I would see if you can get a look under yours to see how they look. If nothing else, filling the nutserts with anti-seize will help keep the rust at bay and give you some time to think about how you want to deal with it.

I am lucky enough to not have a factory rack, but given where I live, I would be very anxious to see what was going on under there.

 

[Will Van]

Are those pics of your truck? If so, I would address that pronto. Otherwise, I would see if you can get a look under yours to see how they look. If nothing else, filling the nutserts with anti-seize will help keep the rust at bay and give you some time to think about how you want to deal with it.

I am lucky enough to not have a factory rack, but given where I live, I would be very anxious to see what was going on under there.

No, the photos are not of my truck. I kinda wanted to delete the rack anyway, and stumbled across all of these threads with rusty roofs due to factory roof racks.

 

[Red Merle]

No, the photos are not of my truck. I kinda wanted to delete the rack anyway, and stumbled across all of these threads with rusty roofs due to factory roof racks.

Gotcha. Well, I would at least take a look. You may not need to go as far as welding anything if you don't want to. You could either just reinstall the factory rack and use anti-seize on the nutserts like I mentioned earlier or just thread some stainless Allen head bolts with little rubber washers in there for now(I would still slather some anti-seize or shoot a little silicone caulk in there for good measure) and think about what you want to do. You could even paint the bolts if you are really fussy.

I used to install Yakima track set-ups on people's vehicles at a big canoe and kayak store and that is what we did when people would come back and want us to pull the rack and tracks so they could install them on a different vehicle. I never had an issue and that was basically the same type of set up as the nutserts on these racks.

 

[Will Van]

Gotcha. Well, I would at least take a look. You may not need to go as far as welding anything if you don't want to. You could either just reinstall the factory rack and use anti-seize on the nutserts like I mentioned earlier or just thread some stainless Allen head bolts with little rubber washers in there for now(I would still slather some anti-seize or shoot a little silicone caulk in there for good measure) and think about what you want to do. You could even paint the bolts if you are really fussy.

I used to install Yakima track set-ups on people's vehicles at a big canoe and kayak store and that is what we did when people would come back and want us to pull the rack and tracks so they could install them on a different vehicle. I never had an issue and that was basically the same type of set up as the nutserts on these racks.

I have a bunch of stainless steel nutserts. Maybe I can drill the old nutserts out and install stainless ones (in addition to the stainless allen heads, rubber washers, and silicone you suggested above).

But really I'm getting ahead of myself. I need to inspect the roof rack and roof and see what I'm dealing with.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[ThomasMore66]

I can't seem to turn the screws on my roof rack. I've been concerned about this too, but I haven't wanted to jack up something. Been pondering taking it to a body shop.

 

[Will Van]

Small (but disappointing) update. I ordered a set of Specter Off Road Tuff Duck slip covers to protect my awesome port-leather seats (cloth manual seats covered in leather by Toyota at the port of entry). I had seen them before in person on a 60 series and really liked them. They were high quality, fit snugly, and were really heavy duty. Plus, the color was a perfect match for my '93 dark brown carpet. Basically - chocolate brown.

Anyway, the covers came in this afternoon and the color is terrible. Not even close to the chocolate brown I had seen on the 60 series or the "brown" advertised on their website. More of an olive drab or green color.

Needless to say, I'm returning them. If they had been the exact color I wanted, I wouldn't mind paying the exorbitant SOR prices. But for olive drab, no thanks.

I think I'll just rock my tan leather seats uncovered until they wear out. At that point I may try to get chocolate brown replacement leather.

Can anyone recommend a Mud vendor for chocolate brown leather seat upholstery for a FZJ80 series with manual seats?

 

[Lumpskie]

Dude, I'd rock those leater seats too. They look great!

 

[Red Merle]

The leather covers you have are protecting the real gem, which is the cloth seats beneath them. I would rock those until they wear out and then peel them off and enjoy the cloth seats. I have the cloth seats and I just use brown bath towels that I sewed little holes into that fit under the posts that the headrests fit into. I shake off the dog hair, spilled coffee and other junk that they pick up every couple of days and my cloth seats are still in mint shape because of it. The guy you bought the truck from has had full sets of the cloth seats in great shape for sale for north of $1500 on his website. They are worth every penny. Anything you cover the leather with will allow grit to work its way through and it will abrade the surface of the leather. The leather is your seat cover.

 

[Frisman]

Congrats on your 80! I have mine for 15 years!

 

[Will Van]

The leather covers you have are protecting the real gem, which is the cloth seats beneath them. I would rock those until they wear out and then peel them off and enjoy the cloth seats. I have the cloth seats and I just use brown bath towels that I sewed little holes into that fit under the posts that the headrests fit into. I shake off the dog hair, spilled coffee and other junk that they pick up every couple of days and my cloth seats are still in mint shape because of it. The guy you bought the truck from has had full sets of the cloth seats in great shape for sale for north of $1500 on his website. They are worth every penny. Anything you cover the leather with will allow grit to work its way through and it will abrade the surface of the leather. The leather is your seat cover.

Well that makes the decision easy! Just return the SOR seat covers and put my butt in the seats!!!

 

[Will Van]

Congrats on your 80! I have mine for 15 years!

Awesome! How many miles?