1992 FJ80 3FE AFM need help!!!

[Jack Metal]

Hi guys. I am new here and just my bought my first ever Land Cruiser. I've owned Jeeps and a Land Rover, but I finally got my long desired Land Cruiser 80. I am certain this question or the issue with AFM's have been brought up, but I am looking whether to repair it, replace it or if there's a MAF kit that is compatible with the LC80. Thanks in advance.

Here's the issue I am having. The check engine light came on and I contacted the original owner who stated it comes on every now and again. I noticed the idle was a bit high, 1200+, as opposed to 650 and 800 that I have heard on here. I opened up the AFM and noticed it had been worked on prior. Here in the Philippines we have many parts readily available for Land Cruisers, but it's a mash up of surplus and original parts (Japanese Surplus vs. actual imports). I'm thinking it's why it was worked on...contact soldered again.

I checked the AFM with an ohm meter and it seems to be operating correctly except I think the soldering has outlived itself. Shortly after the initial high idle, it now runs rich and has a rough idle. I am thinking the check engine light was on to something. Though I can somewhat see where the terminals got soldered to, I am not certain of the actual "wiring diagram" as it seems there was a jumper between two of the contacts which broke off. Additionally when I pull back on the tension release spring my AFM "clock spring" doesn't actually unwind. Seems to be "just there" without a purpose. It all looks fine, but I am thinking this is not normal.

I am hoping I could get some insight so I can restore it as I am afraid I'll just short something out and kill the whole AFM. Currently it runs rich, but does run. Acceleration is fine, but the idle is at 600 and is quite rough.

Thank you again in advance.

 

[Kernal]

Did you take your AFM apart? Can you post up some photos of
what you're looking at?

Here's a couple of previous threads that might help:

3-FE VAF Meter Woes: Lesson learned the hard way

I read somewhere that you keep the pedal mashed down almost all the time :lol: Maybe... well, I have come to find out that this is a necessity. :frown: Welcome to the 3FE club :D Regearing would be wise. Trying to save up for a set of 4.88's here. :cheers:

forum.ih8mud.com

AFM adjusted on 3FE MUCH BETTER!

Just screwing around today and thought I'd play with my AFM. History: Last year I took off the "2 SCREWS OF DEATH". Bought a used AFM here on the MUD for $125. It did the job. This was during a big job to replace a piston (I posted on that too). Spring 2013 - running rich: She just wasn't...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[White Stripe]

Split second sells a mass air flow conversion kit so u dont have to use a air flow meter anymore.

 

[Jack Metal]

Did you take your AFM apart? Can you post up some photos of
what you're looking at?

Here's a couple of previous threads that might help:

3-FE VAF Meter Woes: Lesson learned the hard way

I read somewhere that you keep the pedal mashed down almost all the time :lol: Maybe... well, I have come to find out that this is a necessity. :frown: Welcome to the 3FE club :D Regearing would be wise. Trying to save up for a set of 4.88's here. :cheers:

forum.ih8mud.com

AFM adjusted on 3FE MUCH BETTER!

Just screwing around today and thought I'd play with my AFM. History: Last year I took off the "2 SCREWS OF DEATH". Bought a used AFM here on the MUD for $125. It did the job. This was during a big job to replace a piston (I posted on that too). Spring 2013 - running rich: She just wasn't...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you for sharing the threads. Just looked at the photos in the first thread you attached. It looks like that. In fact it is apparent to me that the terminals are no longer attached to the board. Someone definitely soldered them back already, but they came off....hence the engine light coming on and off. I will solder them back on tomorrow. Hopefully everything will be ok. I drove the truck about fifty miles today. It ran fine except the idle remained rough. It'll take me a few days to get everything soldered back on since I have to buy stuff here (not easy getting stuff in this part of the Philippines). Hopefully I'll have good news by the end of it all. Thanks.

 

[jonheld]

The AFM also has an intake air temperature sensor that the ECU uses to adjust fuel delivery.
IMO, if the AFM is suspect, I would replace it with a used unit from any 3FE equipped Land Cruiser (FJ62 or FJ80) or equivalent.
There are some threads on here regarding swapping AFMs from other Toyota vehicles.

 

[jonheld]

It would also help if you read the codes stored in the ECU rather than just looked at the light.
I would remove the 15 amp EFI fuse in the under hood fuse box for about 10 minutes and reinstall and go for a drive.
This will clear any codes in the ECU and allow you to start from scratch. If the CEL comes on again, read the codes. At least it will confirm what you're hunting.

 

[Jack Metal]

The AFM also has an intake air temperature sensor that the ECU uses to adjust fuel delivery.
IMO, if the AFM is suspect, I would replace it with a used unit from any 3FE equipped Land Cruiser (FJ62 or FJ80) or equivalent.
There are some threads on here regarding swapping AFMs from other Toyota vehicles.

Yes....I am thinking about the Camry AFM (MAF) suggested on here. Don't know why it's called a MAF since it still has a Vane System. Considering it, but it will take a month for it to get here. Amazon has a good price on it.

 

[Jack Metal]

It would also help if you read the codes stored in the ECU rather than just looked at the light.
I would remove the 15 amp EFI fuse in the under hood fuse box for about 10 minutes and reinstall and go for a drive.
This will clear any codes in the ECU and allow you to start from scratch. If the CEL comes on again, read the codes. At least it will confirm what you're hunting.

I can't find the codes for this truck. I saw a video on YouTube where a woman reads the codes based on the blinks the light has after jumping pins on what would be the ODB, but she has a code book that tells her what is wrong. I can't seem to find that on the Internet. I did, however, remove the 15 amp EFI/ECU fuse and removed the battery terminals to work on them. I returned the fuse after a couple of hours. I did drive the truck after for fifty miles, but it did not "reprogram" anything into the computer.

The truck used to just run high idle, but smooth when I removed the connector to the AFM and only cut off when I would increase the throttle, but now the truck will run high idle and smooth cutting off after a few seconds. I believe that is the correct thing that happens. I believe it is supposed to eventually cut off after removing the connector...at least from what I've read in other posts. Hopefully that means I am narrowing down all the problems involving this air/fuel mixture apparatus.

I will try to solder everything back, but I think I'll order that remanufactured AFM (the Camry model). I heard the Camry model allows it to run a little leaner, but performs better according to some guys on here that have done that. The AFM looks the same. I think it was leaned out for Camry so I know that means I can still adjust it if need be.

 

[jonheld]

Here you go

 

[Jack Metal]

Here you go

Thank you so much.

 

[Jack Metal]

Split second sells a mass air flow conversion kit so u dont have to use a air flow meter anymore.

Yes. I have been to their website. There's nothing specific, but it is costly. It also involves an additional unit that is wired in between the ECU and the connector. I've seen it priced from $500-$800. Unless it performs much better (more horsepower and better fuel economy) I don't think it would be worth it. I use this truck in emergency situations so I am only looking for it to run right. I am wondering if I might run into more electrical issues since I'm not sure all of the sensors are operating correctly...replacing them one by one.

 

[alex4640]

Make sure you use a non-corrosive silicone to seal any electrical parts! If your silicone sealant smells like vinegar, it will rust out the electronics you're trying to protect. Of course, the low cost silicone is all acetoxy based and will corrode metal. Get the good stuff!

 

[Kernal]

ASI 388 - American Sealants Inc. ELECTRONIC GRADE RTV SILICONE

One part, moisture cure sealant cures to form a tough, durable, flexible rubber Ideal for bonding, sealing, encapsulating and protecting electronic parts. Works in temps from -70°F to 400°F.

www.americansealantsinc.com

 

[Jack Metal]

Make sure you use a non-corrosive silicone to seal any electrical parts! If your silicone sealant smells like vinegar, it will rust out the electronics you're trying to protect. Of course, the low cost silicone is all acetoxy based and will corrode metal. Get the good stuff!

Thanks for the heads up. My RTV doesn't smell like vinegar and is supposed to be for electronics. I did, however, order a remanufactured AFM. Figured where I am I need a backup anyway.

 

[Jack Metal]

Hi guys. I am new here and just my bought my first ever Land Cruiser. I've owned Jeeps and a Land Rover, but I finally got my long desired Land Cruiser 80. I am certain this question or the issue with AFM's have been brought up, but I am looking whether to repair it, replace it or if there's a MAF kit that is compatible with the LC80. Thanks in advance.

Here's the issue I am having. The check engine light came on and I contacted the original owner who stated it comes on every now and again. I noticed the idle was a bit high, 1200+, as opposed to 650 and 800 that I have heard on here. I opened up the AFM and noticed it had been worked on prior. Here in the Philippines we have many parts readily available for Land Cruisers, but it's a mash up of surplus and original parts (Japanese Surplus vs. actual imports). I'm thinking it's why it was worked on...contact soldered again.

I checked the AFM with an ohm meter and it seems to be operating correctly except I think the soldering has outlived itself. Shortly after the initial high idle, it now runs rich and has a rough idle. I am thinking the check engine light was on to something. Though I can somewhat see where the terminals got soldered to, I am not certain of the actual "wiring diagram" as it seems there was a jumper between two of the contacts which broke off. Additionally when I pull back on the tension release spring my AFM "clock spring" doesn't actually unwind. Seems to be "just there" without a purpose. It all looks fine, but I am thinking this is not normal.

I am hoping I could get some insight so I can restore it as I am afraid I'll just short something out and kill the whole AFM. Currently it runs rich, but does run. Acceleration is fine, but the idle is at 600 and is quite rough.

Thank you again in advance.

 

[Jack Metal]

New AFM. All is good now.

 

[Jack Metal]

New AFM. All is good now.

 

[Retro LC]

New AFM. All is good now.

Where did you buy the new AFM from? Any issues to report now that it’s been installed for over a year now?

 

[Ghame5]

New AFM. All is good now.

Hi Jack, where did you get new AFM? I'm having similar trouble. Thanks

 

[3FE barley runs]

anyone have any luck on finding a conversion kit to get rid of the AFM for the 3FE? Split sec is out of business