3-FE VAF Meter Woes: Lesson learned the hard way
- Thread starter spdwaver
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Maybe...
Welcome to the 3FE club
Regearing would be wise. Trying to save up for a set of 4.88's here.
Well, that's the plan. Unfortunately, my finances are on hold for a while, so I will have to live with it.
Then again, the amount that I am spending in gas just may convince the wife that this is an absolute necessity.
- Thread starter
- #24
Maybe. You'll probably get 12 MPG at best, but you don't need to tell the....
Right. She will be pleased that all the new stains on the driveway made such great gains.
But even at 12mpg I will be doing backflips, due to the slight increase in uphill speeds without having to keep the accelerator mashed down.
I remember reading somewhere about how important it was to use a sealant that puts out no fumes when drying. The electronics in the AFM are ultrasensitive, and the fumes from the sealant was supposably frying them. Maybe it was just a bunch of hype?
- Thread starter
- #26
I guess it depends on whose product is being pushed at the time.
Otherwise, it just may be true, but at this juncture, I am fine with whatever I have on hand.
Another One Bites The Dust ... Murphy Stikes Again
Did I REALLY just do that!!!
Having trouble with sporadic no start on 92 FJ80. Posted on the forum and was given some great advice, clean the cold start injector.
While I was at the parts store getting throttle body cleaner, Billy Bob the mechanic told me I should clean the MAF too, they need to be cleaned he said. I said I don't have a MAF. He said yes you do. I said what a great idea and I bought some MAF Cleaner.
I decided to clean my VAF, MAF, AFM thing as soon as I got home seemed a simple task. From this point on it will known as the MAF because I forgot what it was actually called since writing this post.
Opened the hood looked at the MAF and thought How do I clean that? Then I saw the directions on the MAF cleaner can ...
1. Unplug wire harness (check)
2. Remove MAF Housing (typically a screw driver will work)
- I looked at the top plastic cover of the MAF with the silicone, thought
- I seen the two screws holding the plug on the MAF housing. Thought to myself "If I were a sensor I'd be in there." Plus the directions on the can said typically a screw driver will work, and those are phillips head screws. Besides they would not put two screws there if they did not want you to have easy access.
I gently pulled on the plug after removing the screws. I pulled it out just until I met resistance. I saw wires and my gut told me to put it back in.
- I removed the MAF flipped it over and saw the 6 screws or so holding the bottom plate on thought
- I looked in the MAF did not see a sensor to clean ...
so I pulled the two screws holding the plug on out again. Removed the plug from the housing to see if I missed something. Once I started to feel resistance I got the gut feeling again, then put it back. 
I put it all back together and decided to come look on Mud for some input. That is when I found this thread ...
:whoops:
I cleaned the Cold start injector, prayed, prayed again then tried to start. The engine just cranked and cranked. I noticed the CEL is not on when trying to start. Before it was. Did I frag the MAF or am I missing something?
I have one question for Toyota? Why did you put the screws there! Next time you want me to destroy something just put a big red button that says do not push!!!!!! ;p
$700 dollars huh? I am going to go throw up now ... LOL
On the bright side since this happened I get way better gas mileage. Has not used one drop!!!
Did I REALLY just do that!!!
Having trouble with sporadic no start on 92 FJ80. Posted on the forum and was given some great advice, clean the cold start injector.
While I was at the parts store getting throttle body cleaner, Billy Bob the mechanic told me I should clean the MAF too, they need to be cleaned he said. I said I don't have a MAF. He said yes you do. I said what a great idea and I bought some MAF Cleaner.
I decided to clean my VAF, MAF, AFM thing as soon as I got home seemed a simple task. From this point on it will known as the MAF because I forgot what it was actually called since writing this post.
Opened the hood looked at the MAF and thought How do I clean that? Then I saw the directions on the MAF cleaner can ...
1. Unplug wire harness (check)
2. Remove MAF Housing (typically a screw driver will work)
- I looked at the top plastic cover of the MAF with the silicone, thought
- I seen the two screws holding the plug on the MAF housing. Thought to myself "If I were a sensor I'd be in there." Plus the directions on the can said typically a screw driver will work, and those are phillips head screws. Besides they would not put two screws there if they did not want you to have easy access.
I gently pulled on the plug after removing the screws. I pulled it out just until I met resistance. I saw wires and my gut told me to put it back in.
- I removed the MAF flipped it over and saw the 6 screws or so holding the bottom plate on thought
- I looked in the MAF did not see a sensor to clean ...
so I pulled the two screws holding the plug on out again. Removed the plug from the housing to see if I missed something. Once I started to feel resistance I got the gut feeling again, then put it back. I put it all back together and decided to come look on Mud for some input. That is when I found this thread ...
:whoops:I cleaned the Cold start injector, prayed, prayed again then tried to start. The engine just cranked and cranked. I noticed the CEL is not on when trying to start. Before it was. Did I frag the MAF or am I missing something?
I have one question for Toyota? Why did you put the screws there! Next time you want me to destroy something just put a big red button that says do not push!!!!!!
;p$700 dollars huh? I am going to go throw up now ... LOL
On the bright side since this happened I get way better gas mileage. Has not used one drop!!!
WOW, sorry about the drama!
So did you screw something up or is it all good?
I hope it's the latter... but if it's not, then I certainly hope you won't have to shell out $700!!!
You can probably get a used one for next to nothing, right?
So did you screw something up or is it all good?
I hope it's the latter... but if it's not, then I certainly hope you won't have to shell out $700!!!
You can probably get a used one for next to nothing, right?
...
Did I frag the MAF or am I missing something?
...
There are instructions in the FSM for testing the VAF. If it fails any of the tests, then see post #1 above. Carefully cut sealant from black plastic cover and remove same. Look at PC board to see if you ripped connector pins away from the PC foil. If so, carefully solder pins back onto board. If you're not adept at soldering on PC boards, find a friend who is.
No, you don't.
93+ does, and they *can* require cleaning. The Air Flow Meter (AFM) or Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF) on a 91-92 rarely needs cleaning, although I suppose the flapper valve *could* get gumbed up.
Sorry for your loss,
Curtis
I seemed to have fixed it ... I have a lot out detailed pics that I will post. THANK you all for the help. I learned some stuff in the process. I will post a full write up.
How I fixed the VAF or AFM 91/92 Must Read
First off thanks for the Help guys!!! Here is detailed pics on how i fixed the broken VAF / AFM. This will be done in sections so I can explain details in each set of pictures.
Step 1) Remove VAF/AFM
Picture should say LOSE ... not loose ... my bad
First off thanks for the Help guys!!! Here is detailed pics on how i fixed the broken VAF / AFM. This will be done in sections so I can explain details in each set of pictures.
Step 1) Remove VAF/AFM
Picture should say LOSE ... not loose ... my bad
Last edited:
Step 2) Remove black plastic cap. Be careful not to puncture the thin plastic. I used a flathead screwdriver to scrape off silicone then gently pried the black cap off.
Step 3) Remove plug
Step 4) Straighten contacts and apply ELECTRICAL solder
Step 5) Reinsert plug and tighten screws, once in place use solder Iron to melt contacts to circuit board. This is difficult, I was not skilled enough to do this. (if you are better this may be the end for you) If you suck at soldering like me see the next step.
Step 6) Plan B .. Remove contact clips and solder to Circuit board individually. I could not seem to get this to work. I found out later it was due to the fact I was using a fine tip solder iron. Later I fixed the tip by cutting and filing. Had I done this for this step I may have been done at this point. You need to be able to heat the board and solder at the same time for the solder to stick. A fine tip won't cut it for this.
Step 7) Once you get the contacts on the circuit board carefully insert the plug and solder the contacts back to the electrical prongs. Before you silicone the black cap on do a test run to see if you have a good connection. I placed a piece of heavy duty masking tape over the top and put it in the truck.
Hooked everything back up. Turned the key on and the CEL came on! Yes!!! truck ran for 5 sec then died. Did this several times, so I pulled the VAF out again. I did not do a good solder job. If you are better you may end here. If you are like me go to next step.
Hooked everything back up. Turned the key on and the CEL came on! Yes!!! truck ran for 5 sec then died. Did this several times, so I pulled the VAF out again. I did not do a good solder job. If you are better you may end here. If you are like me go to next step.
Step 8) Take a deep breath and try again. I decided to remove the contact clips and really focus on getting the solder to take to the circuit board. This is where I made the solder tip blunt to heat a wider surface. The solder finally began to stick to the board. The prongs on the plug are spring loaded. They make contact by pushing on the board.
I figured if I gooped enough solder on the board they would get a good connection. Not the most beautiful thing to look at, but it seems to have worked. If anyone knows of a good reason why this is a bad idea, please let me know.
I figured if I gooped enough solder on the board they would get a good connection. Not the most beautiful thing to look at, but it seems to have worked. If anyone knows of a good reason why this is a bad idea, please let me know.
Step 9) Put it all together with the temp cover, fired up the truck and it seems to have worked.
Seal up the black cover with Sensor Safe Silicone
Seal up the black cover with Sensor Safe Silicone