so i just bought a 1991 Toyota surf with an alternator issue. so far i have got the alternator rebuilt(because we don't have them in Canada and would have to order a new one from japan or Australia) and i got 2 new battery because the old ones were hooped, got them tested. i got the alternator and battery installed and still wont charge, tested the battery and i am getting 12 volts consistently. should i take the alternator out and get it tested again or do you guys have any other ideas ?
1991 toyota surf alternator not charging help! (1 Viewer)
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alt fuse good?
voltage at the three prong plug?
wiring all tight and have a good connection?
voltage at the three prong plug?
wiring all tight and have a good connection?
- Thread starter
- #6
internal i believe
yea pretty sure internal. trying to find a wiring diagram on the interwebs but you have to sign up for them. IGN switch on you should have power to one of those wires if you have a test light, but if all wiring is good then could be a faulty voltage reg. which in case would be getting someone to bench test the alt again
- Thread starter
- #8
when i got it rebuilt the guy said he didnt have an exact regulator but had one that would do the job so i guess ill take it out and take it back to him to test. maybe it went or something
- Thread starter
- #9
The purpose of the regulator is to accept a B+ wire from the positive terminal of the battery post. That voltage is necessary to send a signal to the B+ wire which in turn will increase the current flow to the Armature correct me if I'm wrong. The Armature is a set of coils lining the inside of the alternator. It kicks the current up and the rotating Armature Spence past those magnetic fields increases the current flow out of the main terminal going back to the alternator. Is possible that's your regulator is bad but if you have a voltmeter I insist that you take alternator and do a voltage drop test between the be positive of the battery and Factory call a small wire which goes into the regulator. I don't remember what the embossed aluminum assess text to the terminal. But there should be a minimum of three wires on the alternator. I would always have a spare alternator sitting inside the vehicle because this alternator obviously will not be repaired if you are somewhere else away from a specialized shop
Sounds like the regulator is shot. Do you have a voltmeter? Measure the alternator output at seven hundred RPMs, 900 RPMs, a thousand RPMs., 1500 RPMs tell us what the voltages. Also check your return wire that goes on the voltage regulator I think that's called B+ I can't be sure but as minimum you should send us a picture or two three pictures of the connections of the alternator. Put your fingers on the connections and make sure they are tight. Do the same for the battery wires on the color of the battery
- Thread starter
- #12
I actually got it figured out. Turns out it wasn’t working when I got it back from the rebuild. I just got it back in today (2nd time and took 2 1/2 weeks) and running good. Thanks for the write up tho
Yeah if the regulator is not working properly you have to have a rotating current coming out of the if I can recall the Armature and that magnetic field has to cut across the field coils of the stator. The voltage will swing up and down I from probably eight volts at idle all the way up to 14 volts. The voltage regulator regulates that by regulating the amount of current flow into the rotating Armature. It's fed back by the positive voltage that comes from the positive side of the battery. But technically the voltage should be fed from the last and all the wiring loom generally near the dashboard. Modern-day vehicles well have a tap coming off of the ECU and straight into the voltage regulator in the alternator
Hey can I have a silver star or a gold donkey sticker for this answer?
Lol
