Build 1990 HZJ75 Troopy build thread.

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Dude! Get some new terminal connectors!....and grab some fresh Group 27's (which is what came stock if I remember correctly). Try to get them as close in serial number as possible. If you are running a converter or the like off the high side battery thats probably the parasitic drain. I replaced that short ground to the body on mine and it helped as well. Sometimes you can't see the corrosion in the wire when the sheath looks ok. Check the starter to chassis ground too. Easy to check and replace if needs be. Fresh batteries, good grounds and a healthy starter and that Troopy should fire up no problem in any temp as long as the glow system is still working right.
:beer:
 
Gotta agree with @Mookies on the need for new terminals and replacing that ground cable. I replaced mine on my BJ74 when swapping out the batteries (Group 27 Interstate Mega-Tron Plus) and have been good to go since. One click on the ignition and the engine roars to life...to the extent a 13B-T can roar.

batteries2.jpg


A few more details here if you're interested.
 
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately two batteries is out of the budget right now. I was hoping to make it till spring to replace both but it appears I cannot wait. I'm going to try and charge my old battery one last time but I'm not holding my breath.

What is the downside to replacing only one of the two batteries?

I included a pic of my isolator.

IMG_2515.webp
 
What I'm reading so far is the old battery will degrade the new one. I'm ignorant to electric and it's on my list to learn. What I'm trying to understand is how one battery can degrade the other if they are isolated from one another
 
Been reading and learning a bit. I'm looking forward to diving into my electrical system and doing all my own crimping, soldering, shrink wrap, etc.

I was able to get enough juice in my old battery with a charger to get the Troopy started. I'm hoping this battery will last a few months (no real trips planned) and I will replace both at the same time then.

Thanks for the advice everyone! I have much to learn but I'm eager to learn how to be self sufficient with my Troopy.

I haven't bought a 101 type electric book yet, so if anyone has a good recommendation I'm all ears.

And I'm 12V.
 
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Park on a slope when you can so you have the option for a push start if your left dead til you get new batteries.

Batteries are very important. Doesn't matter how sweet your truck is, if it don't start, it ain't movin. I'd recommend getting a really good set and batteries and changing the cables when you can.

North Star and interstate are good names. Not cheap but this isn't a catagory to skimp on.
 
Bingo, if you are 12v then the isolator is probably toast. The 24v version in my Troopy was done and was not keeping the high side battery isolated. Those small isolators have pretty cheap discrete components. I would replace that as well when you do fresh batteries so you are starting with a clean slate.
 
Look into doing a marine battery switch to isolate your battery systems.
You kill 1 battery just turn it over to use both batteries. Not a hard system to set up and gives you peace of mind.
 
Hey @Willis, what photo would help?

My battery post was mostly trying to figure out if I should buy a group 27 or group 31 battery as I read about both in 70 series posts.

I included the battery and isolator pics to show everyone what I had going on. As I read more and started attending University of YouTube for vehicle electrics I realized how little understanding I have and need to learn.

I genuinely appreciate everyone's help and insight with my lack of knowledge. Definitely trying to learn and appreciate any and all suggestions of books to check out or useful threads so I can continue to educate myself.

Thanks everyone!
 
What I'm reading so far is the old battery will degrade the new one. I'm ignorant to electric and it's on my list to learn. What I'm trying to understand is how one battery can degrade the other if they are isolated from one another
two different batteries (either different chemistry or different ages) joined for charging by the alternator with a simple isolator is never a good idea for maximum longevity. you can avoid this problem with a dc-dc charger, that isolates when needed and then charges the second battery (with different chemistry) without actually joining them directly like a simple isolator does.

depending on your plans for the truck, i would just put one new crank battery under the bonnet for now, and for your second auxiliary battery save up and use one that is better suited (sealed deep cycle like AGM, lithium etc.) and mount it in the troopy payload area away from the heat with some sort of dc-dc charger designed for two battery chemistries. that part could come later.
 
the other thing to consider with all the battery options out there, is the limitations of your alternator, which won't charge many modern batteries well due to the low maximum voltage (14.2V). make sure whatever you get will charge alright at that voltage, or the other option is change alternators and/or add a dc-dc charger for the cranker with a charge profile for the battery you want... i did this for example so i can happily run a silver calcium battery (needs 14.8V) that is essentially sealed with better heat resistance and longevity and lower discharge than your average lead-acid cranker.
 
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