1985 Toyota Hilux 2LT Rebuild and Upgrade (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 26, 2016
Threads
7
Messages
19
Location
Washington
Hi all, I have jumped off the point of no return with my project. A little background on this pickup. The Hilux was purchased by my uncle in 1985 as his first and only brand new automobile. This little pickup was the learning platform for my three cousins and their endeavors to drive a manual pick up (I can certainly tell by the clutch ;) ). In 2016 he decided to get rid of it due to an overheating problems and not needing the extra rig. He looked me up and offered it to me. Of course I wanted it, this is the most rare Toyota in the U.S...


My goals for the truck are to be a reliable, fuel efficient daily driver/expedition rig that has some minor off-road capabilities. Eventually I will be building a sleeping platform/camper under a canopy.

So I have began working on this truck, all of my research pointing in the direction of a cracked head and over heating as a result. Tore the head off, sure enough a crack between the valves in 1 and 2. After looking at the cylinder walls and seeing some minor vertical scoring, I have opted to rebuild the entire engine. I am putting a 2" OME lift, 33" BFG A/T, 4.88 ring and pinions, a spartan locker in the front, custom intercooler, custom 3" exhaust, rebuilding the front and rear axles while I am in there.

I will be posting about the engine, as this seems to have most people confused in the US when they break down.

Engine

Head: $490 Cylinder Head for Toyota Hilux 2400D 2.4D 8v 1984-89 2LT 2L-T old 909050 | eBay

Timing belt: $18.63
1985 TOYOTA PICKUP 2.4L L4 DIESEL Timing Belt | RockAuto

Water pump: $29.5 JSD eBay

Oil filter: $7.68 1985 TOYOTA PICKUP 2.4L L4 Oil Filter | RockAuto

Fuel Filter: $23.99 Oriely

Thermostat: $6.49 180F Rock Auto

Engine Rebuild Kit: $680 HILUX, BUNDERA, SURF EARLY 2LT TURBO ENGINE REBUILD KIT SUIT 1984 TO 1988 MODELS | eBay

air filter: $58.8 k & N

Exhaust: $35 Straight Exhaust Pipe at Summit Racing

Exhaust hangers: $40 Walker Exhaust Hangers 36313

EGT Gauge: $133.17 Harold G Schaevitz LLC The Sensor Connection

Waterless Coolant: $55.7 Evans Waterless Powersports Engine Coolant | MotoSport

Motor Oil: $34 Royal Purple 15W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (1 Gallon) 04154

Inner cooler (audi A5): $50.53 Junk Yard

Clutch: $117.79 Amazon.com: aisin ckt 020 (aisin CKT 020)

hood scoop: Need to find

inner cooler elbows: 64 Holset Turbocharger

Timing belt cover gasket: $38.85
Power Steering, Vbelts: 27.42 1985 TOYOTA PICKUP 2.4L L4 DIESEL Turbocharged Parts | RockAuto

Machine work: $230

Total:
$Will total at the end of build
 
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Some Helpful Links:

Factory Service Manual: Toyota Workshop & Repair Manuals - Page: 2
** This is a torrent file. You must download a program to download this file, I used this: µTorrent - a (very) tiny BitTorrent client

Understanding the 2LT/Performance/Reliability written by Member GTSSportCoupe : Ideas for improving the 2LTE

Intercooler/Performance: Performance Modifications

Aisin Parts Catalogue: PartCat

Some of the differences and commonly asked questions that I have read about these engines:

Why do the heads crack? How to avoid

In GTSSportCoupe's post he hits on this subject, this is a synopsis:
- As it seems no one really know the answer there a few ideas. Essentially there is a cooling chamber between the valves that is very thin which ends up cracking. There doesn't seem to be a silver bullet solution to the head problem. Instead it seems most owners have chosen many different solutions. Hi-flow thermostat, larger radiator, larger fan, intercooler, larger exhaust, waterless coolant, monitoring EGT's by installing a gauge, and an aftermarket temp gauge. Also, as with any engine... regular up to date maintenance. Also, being sure that you allow time for your engine cool before shutting it off. The biggest thing people seem to mention is that this is NOT a high performance engine, so do not treat it like one.


Different 2LT series:

-2LT: First generation of the engine, came with a roller rocker style cam. Not compatible with the 2LT II or 3L heads.

-2LT II: Second generation of the engine came with shim and bucket cam. compatible with the 3L heads.

-2LT-E: Third generation of the engine, same as 2 LT II but with EFI.
 
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even with 18 psi boost they are still slugs
 
Thanks for posting premirrider! Will be following your project for sure.

I've been working on the same engine (sans turbo) in my 85 Toyota pickup. Pulled the head two weeks ago and whaddaya know: cracks between each and every pair of valve seats, and plenty of vertical scoring in cylinder 3. I've wrangled together a similar parts list, although I'm vacillating between the "improved" OEM head and the version floating around on eBay that you found.

Anywho, thanks and good luck!
 
Very organized. Nice. There are much better oil to choose from rather than that royal junk. They have been sued successfully for fraudulent claims. Mobil 1, redline and amsoil are a few high quality well respected synthetics to choose from if you want a synthetic. Don't run a synthetic for the first 10k miles or it will interfere with ring break in. Also never run critical wear additives or it too will screw with the break in. Have fun!
 
My truck is built almost 100% the way youve planned yours. Exact same engine, bfg tires, ome lift, spartan locker, 4.88 gears etc. Youve got good taste ;)

Mandrel bent exhaust and a better flowing intake/intercooler are an absolute must. I used a summit universal mandrel bent exhaust kit and was able to build a whole new intake/ IC plumbing setup out of the leftover bits. EGTs and performance will improve dramatically. My 2lt could almost do freeway speeds with a tail wind after those mods.

Good luck!
 
Hahaha! Tail wind does help with the 2LT for sure. So do paddles. lol
 
All joking aside it should be a great little engine once youve rebuilt it. Looks like you have good reinforced pistons in that kit and youll have very liittle to worry about with a brand new head with brand new valve seats and precups.

Mine still got 29mpg lifted, locked and loaded down and endured many years of abuse and neglect before it gave up the ghost.

Fwiw toyotapartsdeal.com has seemed to have the best selection ive found for L-series parts when you want OEM bits where it counts. Good freaking luck ever finding anything for this engine at autozone etc.
 
Not everyone wants to sink $5-15k into a 1HD T/12HT/1HZ T etc. We work with what we have.

Yes, we are in the same boat. I bought a toyota mini truck for $440. bought 2 diesels and a wiring harness for $500 and put a junk yard turbo from a jetta with all the bits and pieces for $800. 150 hours of work.
 
I buy tools, not parts ;)
 
ok so I like junkyards just a wee bit. lol
 
even with 18 psi boost they are still slugs

Mine goes pretty good at 17psi (intercooled) with methanol injection. 4800lb truck (with me in it) and I've had a few stop light races for the fun of it. Pulled past a 3RZFE 3rd gen 4Runner and a Prius too lol. I blew by a 2nd gen 4Runner with the 3.0 V6 going up a long hill. So not fast compared to most cars, but not bad for a diesel cruiser. Probably 0-60mph in 10 to 12 seconds. Friend of mine has an HDJ81 running 15psi from a Supra hybrid turbo, 4" dump, 3" exh and more fuel. I'd say my truck is just as quick (although his weighs 1000lb more!).

Biggest problem with making more than about 120hp with these motors is the injection pumps just can't supply enough fuel. They only have a 10mm plunger. I've often thought of building a custom pump with an 11 or 12 mm plunger. In the case of the 2LTE, I've wondered if I could make it run on a 1KZTE or maybe 4M40 pump. For the time being, an easy way to make use of that extra air is to add meth/water injection. I've done this and it makes for an extra 10-15hp easily. A big difference.

Just sticking up for the little 2LTE haha.
 
Biggest problem with making more than about 120hp with these motors is the injection pumps just can't supply enough fuel. They only have a 10mm plunger. I've often thought of building a custom pump with an 11 or 12 mm plunger.

What about a 3l 5l or 5le pump?
 
What about a 3l 5l or 5le pump?

They're all 10mm plungers also AFAIK. Might even fuel less than the 2LT(E) pumps (different cam plate?).

I have heard of people swapping the head/plunger between pumps. I have no idea how hard that would be. Best done by an injection shop I'm thinking. Would be nice though, as it would keep the external setup the same.
 
So just an update, haven't been on the forum for a while....took a new job and haven't been back to work on the truck.
However, I will be going back home the first weekend of June to try and wrap it up.My old phone took a swim, so all of the build pictures are gone. Not too handy...

As of now the frame has been painted, front and rear bumpers have been built and installed, heater core blown out to remove water for waterless coolant, EGT gauge wired and mounted to dash and running gear has been rebuilt/upgraded.

Engine has been rebuilt with thanks to my long time friend and wheeling buddy Dan. Oh the long night on and off the mountain that we've had... Yet again I will never be able to replay this man. Here is a picture of the fresh 2LT:
IMG_0140.JPG


Anyways, beside reinstalling the engine I need to complete the 1-ton high steer, install the top mount intercooler and hood scoop. I will be posting up pictures of the rig when I return to work on it.
 
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Mine goes pretty good at 17psi (intercooled) with methanol injection. 4800lb truck (with me in it) and I've had a few stop light races for the fun of it. Pulled past a 3RZFE 3rd gen 4Runner and a Prius too lol. I blew by a 2nd gen 4Runner with the 3.0 V6 going up a long hill. So not fast compared to most cars, but not bad for a diesel cruiser. Probably 0-60mph in 10 to 12 seconds. Friend of mine has an HDJ81 running 15psi from a Supra hybrid turbo, 4" dump, 3" exh and more fuel. I'd say my truck is just as quick (although his weighs 1000lb more!).

Biggest problem with making more than about 120hp with these motors is the injection pumps just can't supply enough fuel. They only have a 10mm plunger. I've often thought of building a custom pump with an 11 or 12 mm plunger. In the case of the 2LTE, I've wondered if I could make it run on a 1KZTE or maybe 4M40 pump. For the time being, an easy way to make use of that extra air is to add meth/water injection. I've done this and it makes for an extra 10-15hp easily. A big difference.

Just sticking up for the little 2LTE haha.

Water methanol you say eh? Can you post a link to your build please?
 
Water methanol you say eh? Can you post a link to your build please?

I don't really have a good 'build' thread. But if you click 'Build' in my signature it'll bring you to a thread that has the specs of what I've done to my truck.

I realize in retrospect the big difference between the early 2LT and later 2LT-II/2LTE in power potential is that the early one is a 9mm pump and the later one a 10mm pump.

If they had an 11mm or even 12mm pump put on, then some serious power could be made.

Here is a link to my meth injection thread. Makes a lot of extra power, but only in cooler ambient temps. In summer I run more water. I don't do the pre-compressor injection anymore either, so ignore that. My 2LTE is an alcoholic

My power claims in that thread are on the optimistic side. I'd say with the meth/water on in winter (when I run 50/50 mix), it probably ads 10hp or so. In summer I run a 30/70 mix, which reduces the power, but improves the cooling.

I used a dyno app, and a 'g-tech' early this year, and I got 85whp with the torque converter out of lock-up. Apparently the TC drops about 15hp when out of lock-up. Plus an auto drops about 5% more power than a manual trans. So I'd say that if my truck were manual it would be about 100whp. That's actually pretty good for a Toyota diesel.
 
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