1985 failed smog with results (1 Viewer)

[mbxmikey]

Hi Folks,
First time posting here. The board has been an amazing resource and I want to thank all of you for all you have contributed. I’m trying to get an Arizona fj60 to pass smog in California. Good times. So far I had the carb rebuilt from Marks Off-road and have replaced all the vacuum hoses in what I think are the right places. Fixed vacuum leaks as far as I know. Timed it to 7 degrees. And here is my first smog reading at idle and at 2,500 rpm. Any insite into what direction I should head from here would be immensely appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Mike in So Cal

 

[thabruiser]

Increased RPM seems to have helped your high HC, which leads me to believe it is running too rich. ( I do not live in an area where we have to tune carbs to pass emissions, so this is kind of lost on me. Hopefully someone with experience will chime in. In the mean time, I will do some digging! BTW, does the emissions limit change when the number of cylinders is changed in the tester? I see it is listed as a 4 cylinder, which would naturally have less emissions to, er, emit. ( I would think, anyways...) Is there an adjustment to get your carburetor to run leaner?

 

[thabruiser]

Smog Test Results Los Angeles

The results of clean living :D

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Maybe this could help you...just came across is while reading/searching.

 

[mbxmikey]

The smog guy said the number of cylinders listed does not affect the test or requirements. Thought I would add a pic of the patient.

 

[thabruiser]

Ok. High HC is unburned fuel. How is the health of the engine itself? Good compression, not burning oil?

 

[mbxmikey]

 

[mbxmikey]

Ok. High HC is unburned fuel. How is the health of the engine itself? Good compression, not burning oil?

The cruiser is new to me so not sure about condition of engine. I’ll plan on changing the plugs and checking compression at the same time. Will triple check that all the vacuum hoses are correctly connected to the carburetor again.

 

[CRZR45]

In ca… for my fj60 I always put new plugs , cap rotor, air filter and fuel filter along with an oil change . And run it hard on freeway and make sure it’s hot when they test it. Some shops let them sit for a bit before they start the test. And put new oem wire set on if you don’t know how old they are

 

[salvage60]

I have had my 1985 for over 20 years now and have struggled with the roller test. The first thing I would confirm is if the valves are properly adjusted. Beyond a seriously malfunctioning smog component this has been my biggest issue over the years.

stuck EGR valve / low vacuum

I have had my 85 FJ60 for 24 years and have gone through just about everything in that time, suspension, engine rebuild, 5 speed, body work... It was time for California smog again and for the last few years the truck has not gotten a lot of use so I went through the usual checklist of timing...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[vipergrhd]

I have never seen a print out like that, it looks odd. What county are you located? I have similar issues and my carb is also a recent rebuild.

 

[mbxmikey]

This shop will do a “test” smog for you if you want before you attempt an actual smog. Really nice guy. Once I get the numbers in line he will perform a legitimate smog.

 

[thabruiser]

Any progress or update on your issue?

 

[Spike Strip]

Your test reading indicates you are running rich. As a plus, your Air Injection Systems to be working since you have a good O2 level, but you don't give much other info, so it's hard to tell what's going on. May be as simple as proper carb/idle adjustment. Follow the FSM 'Lean Drop' method, though it's a little hard to follow. There are threads on how to do it properly.

Would be a good decision to spend the $20 and buy a silver star so you can post unlimited pix from your phone.

Do you have a copy of the Emissions manual? You really need to go thru it (there are easy detailed test procedures) and check each system.

FWIW, in CA you're only allowed +/- 2 degrees from stock. Set it a 5* BTC instead of the 7 for the test, then set back after the test. Retarding the timing slightly will improve NOX readings though the pre-test you took didn't measure it.

 

[mbxmikey]

I just finished adjusting valves and installing correct spark plugs and correct gapping. Just hooked a vacuum gauge up to it and it’s sitting between 19 and 20 and not oscillating at all. So it seems to be running good. Would this be an indication that I don’t need to do the lean drop method?

I was going to pull the hose off the smog pump to see what kind of air it is moving. The HIC valve is broken so I have that line plugged off for now. Not sure if that would be causing problems.
I know the engine has blow by. I’d hate to go through an engine rebuild only to have it fail so I’m hoping to save that as the last option.
I have been looking for the smog manual but the links I find pull up other documents with no details on the smog stuff. I’m still not convinced I have the vacuum lines correct on the carb and am wondering if it could be running rich at 2500 because of that?

 

[Spike Strip]

FSM - 2F Engine Emission Control, 1981, 36043E

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[mbxmikey]

FSM - 2F Engine Emission Control, 1981, 36043E

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you for this. I will start tracing everything again. Is there a schematic of the carburetor that states which port is which?

 

[Spike Strip]

It's all in the 2F Emission FSM.

Takes a bit of study before the diagrams make sense: Not complicated, just confusing.

I refer to this one, often (not in manual):

 

[Spike Strip]

FWIW, the HIC (Hot Idle Compensator) valve does make a difference, though I'm not sure how much. Function is to bleed filtered air into the intake when ambient air/temp is hot to lean out the mix. Hot gas causes the mix to richen.

I've never seen one of those Toyota HIC valve that is still working. Long discontinued, also. I replaced mine with an equivalent Nissan one that works well. The sensor has to open/close the thermostatic flapper valve on the nose of the Air Cleaner, too, if you need it.

Probably not the main cause of your running rich, though all these things are cumulative.

Simple things first, like you've been doing: Tune up, plugs, cap, rotor, oil, timing, valve adj then lean drop. You'll be surprised how much of a difference an exactly adjusted carb makes. I have a Air/Fuel gauge on mine to help really refine the process.

Good luck.

** BTB products (Man a Fre) does it like this with their 'Restored' Air Cleaners:

 

[mbxmikey]

It's all in the 2F Emission FSM.

Takes a bit of study before the diagrams make sense: Not complicated, just confusing.

I refer to this one, often (not in manual):


View attachment 3613889

I like that one but it shows stuff going to the tree but then no details on where they end up. I’ll stuff the fsm a bit and then hit you up with questions. Appreciate it. Also, I’m thinking that my tree might not be correct or broken. One of the two bvsv valves does not have a hard line to tie back into. It’s like it’s missing completely or ? I teed it in to just before the check valve that sits right on top. Will post pic.

 

[mbxmikey]