1984 Toyota Xtracab OM617 Build (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 27, 2007
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207
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Lumby BC
1984 Toyota Xtra cab OM617 Build

Photo Album Link: 1984 Toyota Hilux Om617 | Facebook

I decided to document another om617 swap into a toyota 4x4 pickup. This one is an 84 xtracab with 238k km that the previous owner had an I-6 from a Datsun 260z with a quadrajet custom carb (gm) setup adapted to a g52 Toyota tranny. I bought the vehicle for a bargain. You can imagine what the G52 looked like after being mated to a 300hp setup :)

It had the following already completed.

Custom heavy duty springs by Okanagan Spring&Suspension
With brand new Sensa-trac shocks.

Custom Rad from a shop in Kelowna, that coincidentally allows me to keep the om617 mechanical fan and has similar outlets as a Mercedes Rad. I believe that having the cooling system already made, and made well for a 300hp Nissan has saved me some big bucks and time.


Custom 3" exhaust system, may or may not use depending on final fuel tank location and exhaust routing.

Power steering hoses plumbed. One Toyota line threads right into the Mercedes pump and the other I just put the Toyota return on the Mercedes barbed end. Very straight forward.

I am using a swap kit that is pretty new to the market from tdswaps out of Lebanon Oregon. TDSwaps.com - Mercedes Turbo Diesel Reliability In You Truck

I visited Brian the owner in Oregon in April on a road trip to Portland and surf hiatus up the Windy Oregon coast. The guy is a passionate diesel enthusiast with a bank of knowledge and has been responsive with questions and advice.

The kit that I bought included the following:

Adapter plate, Milled out of Aluminium, came with mounting hardware. Uses toyota starter

Flywheel Adapter for toyota input bearing (Milled Steel), bolts to redrilled toyota 22r/re flywheel. I may have botched this because some of my new holes crossed into the existing toyota holes. If it becomes apparent that there is a balance issues because of oval-ed holes I'll have to redrill another flywheel this time drilling in such a way that no new holes cross or come near the existing toyota holes. The flywheel adapter makes sure the flywheel is perfectly centered, my only concern is balancing because of the variant amounts of material removed for each hole. Make sure you use a good drill press. I believe mine has to much side to side movement.

Custom water jetted and powder coated throttle bracket to be used with toyota cable (a real simple yet effect adapter, well worth the price)

Motor mounts that bolt to OM617 block and utilize stock 22re rubber mounts and frame mounts. Very slick. (no screwing around with positioning motor for proper clearances ect). Saves a bunch of time and plenty strong.

Transmission Crossmember adjustment plate (tranny comes back just a bit but not enough to warrant lengthening/shortening drive shafts (this is not confirmed yet, I haven't mocked up the shafts yet)

GM cs130 alternator fastening bracket, the alt is already in place with stock belt, I didn't have to change the pulley on the alternator (came out of a late 70's to early 80's GMC sierrra). I used 3 washers to shim the alternator to the front of the mounting gap. I do not see any issues with belt alignment yet.

The donor w56 5 speed came out of 1986 xtra cab with 252k km. I bought the whole truck for $300 for parts. I'll probably end up using some interior parts from it. 22re is in good shape and will hopefully pay for it self and the whole truck. Truck has a sun roof, no leaks..... How I do I get it into the 84 :) ?

The donor motor is a om617 out of a 1983 300td wagon. It has approximately 300k km on it. I bought it off a mechanic in Langley BC. He was going to use it to swap into a cherokee. I paid $500. It came with cooler and complete glow plug harness.

I have done the following to the OM617 while it is out of the truck.
Replaced Main front oil seal, with crankshaft spacer ring (they can wear a groove on the top surface and should be replaced). Putting it all back together I may have messed up the pulley mounting alignment because it seems that they have weights welded on and holes drilled for balancing. If the engine ends up being shaky I'll have to take the rad out and reposition the pulley's. The harmonic balancer I am 75% sure I put back on right. Lesson learned. Mark stuff before you pull.

I replaced the valve cover gasket, and will be replacing the oil pan gasket as soon as popular opinion says to notch or not notch the pan. Look in album link for pic on tie rod clearance to oil pan. It seems apparent that the previous owner bent the tie rod on purpose to clear the nissan motor. My theory is as the axle compresses up that it will move back as the shackles move (pickup shackles are on the back not front like a Landcruiser) and give it that extra bit of clearance.

I will be replacing the oil filter housing gasket once I pull the engine from its mock up position. I still need to position the stock oil cooler and will be lengthening the hoses next. The hoses are barbed so you should leave the hose ends attached to oil cooler, popular opinion says they tend to leak once unthreaded. I already had the oil filter housing off once and put it back together with the original gasket and silicone sealant. I am not comfortable with that and will be removing it to clean it up (in hind sight I don't want silicone in my oil passages :), and replace the old gasket with make your own gasket paper (In Canada no auto parts store can supply that oem gasket unless you buy a whole engine kit), let me know if you otherwise know. I'm also pulling the filter housing again because I have decided to adjust the IP before I put the engine in permanently, it much easier to get at the back of the pump with motor out and housing removed.

After reading through many threads about pros and cons on Injection Pump adjustments and talking to Brian at tdswaps I will be removing the rack limiter, leaving the ALDA, and adjusting the Torque Capsule and rough idle screw by 1/4 turn each. Here are two links that are a good read on the Mercedes IP (M and MW). One is more pro and the other more against certain adjustments.

Injection Pump fuel adjustment for the MW and M pumps, pyrometer install - Mercedes Forum - Mercedes Benz Enthusiast Forums

IP om617 fuel and boost - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com

I have plumbed in an Oil Pressure gauge into the stock hole on the housing but with 1/8th npt sender. No retapping, just teflon. If it leaks, I'll have to get an adapter. The stock metric thread is quite coarse. See pics

A boost gauge also 1/8th npt, but retapped mounted into the hole that has the 6mm hex plug on the intake manifold. See pics

Autometer water temp sensor into existing block hole. See pics.

I had the exhaust and intake manifolds both off and did a proper pyrometer sensor install. It is recommended to put the probe from underneath the ex-manifold to get accurate pre-turbo ex-temp. Drilled with 21/64 bit and tapped for 1/8th npt. I'm using a Autometer pyro.

I have also read that you can get a better idea of how efficient your turbo is running with an exhaust manifold pressure gauge. Half out of curiosity and half for amusement I will be plumbing a copper gas line tube to a boost gauge with adapter from gas line ferrule fitting to boost gauge sender). Pics to come. A 1/1 EMP to Boost ratio is ideal, anything over 2/1 EMP/Boost means over fueling and unnecessary wear to your engine (from high ex temp).

I hope to have the engine max out at 17psi. The waste-gate can supposedly be adjusted on the Mercedes t3 or you can put a bleeder into the waste gate hose (MBC).

The to do list is the following:

Position oil cooler somewhere underneath the rad out of harms way.

Wire up 22re vacuum solenoid (the blue one on the valve cover) to have a IP kill switch, and plump all other necessary Mercedes vacuum lines.

Figure out how to get dual batteries set up.

Custom make a down pipe and some how route an exhaust, see pic for small space that is available.

I still need to run fuel lines (In and return)

Cut hole into tranny hump for w56 transfer case shifter.

Bolt in stock drive shafts (hopefully :)

Wire up mercedes glow plug box

I will also be repainting the truck with a nicer green and brushing the frame (rear half) down and rust proofing it.

Building a metal framed flat deck with Headache rack and inlaid with wood.

Attaching custom bumper with Warn 8724

Work lights on Head ache rack

Two Fog lights on Bumper.

Will be running BFG Muds 33x10.5 on Landcruiser alu rims

Future wish list is some kind of rear locker... Suggestions?

Link for FB photo album:

1984 Toyota Hilux Om617 | Facebook
DSC_4327.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
207
Location
Lumby BC
Just got back from the shop.

Tonight I pulled the engine after mocking up the hood again to make sure it clears the rad hose and valve cover, I also grabbed the bumper I'd like to use and winch and mocked them up to get some brain storming going for mounting. I'd like to keep it high for decent approach angle and would like to mount it a little closer to the grill for less over hanging weight.

During the mock up I also may have found a nifty location for the oil cooler, in between the winch bumper and lower cross member area, its well protected with decent amount of air flow. See pics.

The truck has custom brackets in the front that were installed to make the custom rad fit yet keep the front frame cross member strong enough. I may trim the rear mounting part of the bumper and then butt weld it onto these plates to be bolted to the frame. I'll have supporting brackets run along the top of the frame rail and bolt to the existing frame holes. See album link for details.

After I pulled engine I drained the tranny and transfer. Tranny was clear and golden. Transfer was a little milky. I wonder the reason for that? Plugs didn't have too much wear deposits on the magnets.

I pulled the oil filter housing, sure enough some of that previous silicone sealer would have made its way into the oil passages. Glad I pulled it.

I also removed the rack limiter, now I just need to fish it out. I have a strong pen magnet, just didn't have enough working light to do it tonight. Make sure those who are interested in tuning their pumps read the links I posted in the first post.

I removed the motor mounts and removed the bells that cover the toyota rubber so that the engine would sit a bit lower (holes did not line up in the mock up, but should be fine now). See photos.

I attempted to adjust the waste gate but cannot seem to get it to pop off. I'll be utilizing a bleed off method instead.
 
Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
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Lumby BC
I got the Rack Limiter out easily enough with my pen magnet and a small hex to help twist and shimmy it around on its way up and out.

Next big problem... where do i get a 21mm lock ring socket to adjust the torque capsule, and the 14mm as well i guess?

I have the engine out and oil filter housing off so I really would like to do this but If i can't find the proper tool I'll just have to wait.

Next question, the previous nissan setup did not have a return fuel line, instead the PO had it circulate in the engine compartment in a loop.

Is it alright with a diesel fuel system to do the same?
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
90
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Lebanon Oregon
Nice write up Max! I have a helluva time banging on the keyboard, better off in the shop for sure! For your torque capsule adjustment tool.... If you are careful, you can use a punch/chisel to loosen the locknut and the 13mm can be turned by hand. Or you can weld two small bumps and then file them down to fit. You will need to rerun a return line. If you give me your Bj 74, I will drive up there and run one for ya;)
Keep up the good work!
Brian
 
Joined
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Messages
207
Location
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Thanks for the tips Brian. Friday morning I took a 22mm socket and welded up two little mounds, filed them down (had do to do this three times to get it right) and I got the torque capsule adjusted.

The motor is now in the truck. New oil pan gasket installed, power steering hoses connected, throttle cable connected, vaccum solenoid for the kill switch is wired up. Last thing I was working on was going through the previous owners hack job of the wiring harness. I cleaned up some random splices he made and I also removed the stock glow plug wiring harness. Which leads me to the next question I have. What is the part number for a glow plug that I can use with a Wilson switch set up (for starter relay and push button inside)? I'm guessing I want a plug in the 8-10v range.

I had to grind away the inside lip of the front cross member for the fan to have a little bit more clearance in case of some hard flexing (the clearancing was 4 inches wide). The custom rad and stock mechanical fan are looking slick. It'll be nice to see how efficient it will be.

Next up is fuel lines and down pipe. I still need to put the shifters in and connect the drivelines. I'll be posting an interesting picture of the PO's rear driveline setup. Looks custom.
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
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Hi i am actually attempting this conversion on to my 1992 toyota Pickup 4x4. I was wondering about the motor mount you where talking about. You said it would bolt on to the OM617 motor and allow it to use the 22re chassis mounts and motor mounts. Did you know where did you get them or did you build them yourself. Thanks

-Peter
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
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Location
Laramie, WY
Whoa. Ressurecting a thread from '12.

I am looking at refurbishing an '94 Xtra Cab 4x4 (bad 3VZe).
So far I've really only looked at the 3.4 swap. That little project clocks in at $6 or 7K with all kits and parts coming from Off Road Solutions. That sticker price has me looking for alternatives.

I'd like to have a bullet proof truck when I get done. I plan on keeping the thing forever. It will be a working truck. Not a daily driver necessarily, but used for light-duty towing, oil-field welding, and ranch work. I have an OME suspension for it (2" lift). I plan on putting a stake-side flat-bed with a dumping mechanism on it. I plan on re-doing the interior while I'm at it.

The engine compartment on the truck on TD Swap's splash-page is the place I'd like to end up, when the project concludes. (Clean, factory looking, regardless of whether I go with the 3.4 Toy or the OM617 Merc.)

Anyway. I'm starting from essentially zero knowledge. I just discovered this swap maybe 30 minutes ago.

Initial Q to A:

Brian... @diesel60 Is TD Swaps still in business? I don't see any recent updates on the website, or facebook pages. I will send PMs shortly to see if I can raise ya that way!


Thanks for the thread, Max! I'll be book marking this one and returning to ask questions, I'm sure.
 

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