1984 Toyota Xtra cab OM617 Build
Photo Album Link: 1984 Toyota Hilux Om617 | Facebook
I decided to document another om617 swap into a toyota 4x4 pickup. This one is an 84 xtracab with 238k km that the previous owner had an I-6 from a Datsun 260z with a quadrajet custom carb (gm) setup adapted to a g52 Toyota tranny. I bought the vehicle for a bargain. You can imagine what the G52 looked like after being mated to a 300hp setup
It had the following already completed.
Custom heavy duty springs by Okanagan Spring&Suspension
With brand new Sensa-trac shocks.
Custom Rad from a shop in Kelowna, that coincidentally allows me to keep the om617 mechanical fan and has similar outlets as a Mercedes Rad. I believe that having the cooling system already made, and made well for a 300hp Nissan has saved me some big bucks and time.
Custom 3" exhaust system, may or may not use depending on final fuel tank location and exhaust routing.
Power steering hoses plumbed. One Toyota line threads right into the Mercedes pump and the other I just put the Toyota return on the Mercedes barbed end. Very straight forward.
I am using a swap kit that is pretty new to the market from tdswaps out of Lebanon Oregon. TDSwaps.com - Mercedes Turbo Diesel Reliability In You Truck
I visited Brian the owner in Oregon in April on a road trip to Portland and surf hiatus up the Windy Oregon coast. The guy is a passionate diesel enthusiast with a bank of knowledge and has been responsive with questions and advice.
The kit that I bought included the following:
Adapter plate, Milled out of Aluminium, came with mounting hardware. Uses toyota starter
Flywheel Adapter for toyota input bearing (Milled Steel), bolts to redrilled toyota 22r/re flywheel. I may have botched this because some of my new holes crossed into the existing toyota holes. If it becomes apparent that there is a balance issues because of oval-ed holes I'll have to redrill another flywheel this time drilling in such a way that no new holes cross or come near the existing toyota holes. The flywheel adapter makes sure the flywheel is perfectly centered, my only concern is balancing because of the variant amounts of material removed for each hole. Make sure you use a good drill press. I believe mine has to much side to side movement.
Custom water jetted and powder coated throttle bracket to be used with toyota cable (a real simple yet effect adapter, well worth the price)
Motor mounts that bolt to OM617 block and utilize stock 22re rubber mounts and frame mounts. Very slick. (no screwing around with positioning motor for proper clearances ect). Saves a bunch of time and plenty strong.
Transmission Crossmember adjustment plate (tranny comes back just a bit but not enough to warrant lengthening/shortening drive shafts (this is not confirmed yet, I haven't mocked up the shafts yet)
GM cs130 alternator fastening bracket, the alt is already in place with stock belt, I didn't have to change the pulley on the alternator (came out of a late 70's to early 80's GMC sierrra). I used 3 washers to shim the alternator to the front of the mounting gap. I do not see any issues with belt alignment yet.
The donor w56 5 speed came out of 1986 xtra cab with 252k km. I bought the whole truck for $300 for parts. I'll probably end up using some interior parts from it. 22re is in good shape and will hopefully pay for it self and the whole truck. Truck has a sun roof, no leaks..... How I do I get it into the 84 ?
The donor motor is a om617 out of a 1983 300td wagon. It has approximately 300k km on it. I bought it off a mechanic in Langley BC. He was going to use it to swap into a cherokee. I paid $500. It came with cooler and complete glow plug harness.
I have done the following to the OM617 while it is out of the truck.
Replaced Main front oil seal, with crankshaft spacer ring (they can wear a groove on the top surface and should be replaced). Putting it all back together I may have messed up the pulley mounting alignment because it seems that they have weights welded on and holes drilled for balancing. If the engine ends up being shaky I'll have to take the rad out and reposition the pulley's. The harmonic balancer I am 75% sure I put back on right. Lesson learned. Mark stuff before you pull.
I replaced the valve cover gasket, and will be replacing the oil pan gasket as soon as popular opinion says to notch or not notch the pan. Look in album link for pic on tie rod clearance to oil pan. It seems apparent that the previous owner bent the tie rod on purpose to clear the nissan motor. My theory is as the axle compresses up that it will move back as the shackles move (pickup shackles are on the back not front like a Landcruiser) and give it that extra bit of clearance.
I will be replacing the oil filter housing gasket once I pull the engine from its mock up position. I still need to position the stock oil cooler and will be lengthening the hoses next. The hoses are barbed so you should leave the hose ends attached to oil cooler, popular opinion says they tend to leak once unthreaded. I already had the oil filter housing off once and put it back together with the original gasket and silicone sealant. I am not comfortable with that and will be removing it to clean it up (in hind sight I don't want silicone in my oil passages, and replace the old gasket with make your own gasket paper (In Canada no auto parts store can supply that oem gasket unless you buy a whole engine kit), let me know if you otherwise know. I'm also pulling the filter housing again because I have decided to adjust the IP before I put the engine in permanently, it much easier to get at the back of the pump with motor out and housing removed.
After reading through many threads about pros and cons on Injection Pump adjustments and talking to Brian at tdswaps I will be removing the rack limiter, leaving the ALDA, and adjusting the Torque Capsule and rough idle screw by 1/4 turn each. Here are two links that are a good read on the Mercedes IP (M and MW). One is more pro and the other more against certain adjustments.
Injection Pump fuel adjustment for the MW and M pumps, pyrometer install - Mercedes Forum - Mercedes Benz Enthusiast Forums
IP om617 fuel and boost - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com
I have plumbed in an Oil Pressure gauge into the stock hole on the housing but with 1/8th npt sender. No retapping, just teflon. If it leaks, I'll have to get an adapter. The stock metric thread is quite coarse. See pics
A boost gauge also 1/8th npt, but retapped mounted into the hole that has the 6mm hex plug on the intake manifold. See pics
Autometer water temp sensor into existing block hole. See pics.
I had the exhaust and intake manifolds both off and did a proper pyrometer sensor install. It is recommended to put the probe from underneath the ex-manifold to get accurate pre-turbo ex-temp. Drilled with 21/64 bit and tapped for 1/8th npt. I'm using a Autometer pyro.
I have also read that you can get a better idea of how efficient your turbo is running with an exhaust manifold pressure gauge. Half out of curiosity and half for amusement I will be plumbing a copper gas line tube to a boost gauge with adapter from gas line ferrule fitting to boost gauge sender). Pics to come. A 1/1 EMP to Boost ratio is ideal, anything over 2/1 EMP/Boost means over fueling and unnecessary wear to your engine (from high ex temp).
I hope to have the engine max out at 17psi. The waste-gate can supposedly be adjusted on the Mercedes t3 or you can put a bleeder into the waste gate hose (MBC).
The to do list is the following:
Position oil cooler somewhere underneath the rad out of harms way.
Wire up 22re vacuum solenoid (the blue one on the valve cover) to have a IP kill switch, and plump all other necessary Mercedes vacuum lines.
Figure out how to get dual batteries set up.
Custom make a down pipe and some how route an exhaust, see pic for small space that is available.
I still need to run fuel lines (In and return)
Cut hole into tranny hump for w56 transfer case shifter.
Bolt in stock drive shafts (hopefully
Wire up mercedes glow plug box
I will also be repainting the truck with a nicer green and brushing the frame (rear half) down and rust proofing it.
Building a metal framed flat deck with Headache rack and inlaid with wood.
Attaching custom bumper with Warn 8724
Work lights on Head ache rack
Two Fog lights on Bumper.
Will be running BFG Muds 33x10.5 on Landcruiser alu rims
Future wish list is some kind of rear locker... Suggestions?
Link for FB photo album:
1984 Toyota Hilux Om617 | Facebook
Photo Album Link: 1984 Toyota Hilux Om617 | Facebook
I decided to document another om617 swap into a toyota 4x4 pickup. This one is an 84 xtracab with 238k km that the previous owner had an I-6 from a Datsun 260z with a quadrajet custom carb (gm) setup adapted to a g52 Toyota tranny. I bought the vehicle for a bargain. You can imagine what the G52 looked like after being mated to a 300hp setup
It had the following already completed.
Custom heavy duty springs by Okanagan Spring&Suspension
With brand new Sensa-trac shocks.
Custom Rad from a shop in Kelowna, that coincidentally allows me to keep the om617 mechanical fan and has similar outlets as a Mercedes Rad. I believe that having the cooling system already made, and made well for a 300hp Nissan has saved me some big bucks and time.
Custom 3" exhaust system, may or may not use depending on final fuel tank location and exhaust routing.
Power steering hoses plumbed. One Toyota line threads right into the Mercedes pump and the other I just put the Toyota return on the Mercedes barbed end. Very straight forward.
I am using a swap kit that is pretty new to the market from tdswaps out of Lebanon Oregon. TDSwaps.com - Mercedes Turbo Diesel Reliability In You Truck
I visited Brian the owner in Oregon in April on a road trip to Portland and surf hiatus up the Windy Oregon coast. The guy is a passionate diesel enthusiast with a bank of knowledge and has been responsive with questions and advice.
The kit that I bought included the following:
Adapter plate, Milled out of Aluminium, came with mounting hardware. Uses toyota starter
Flywheel Adapter for toyota input bearing (Milled Steel), bolts to redrilled toyota 22r/re flywheel. I may have botched this because some of my new holes crossed into the existing toyota holes. If it becomes apparent that there is a balance issues because of oval-ed holes I'll have to redrill another flywheel this time drilling in such a way that no new holes cross or come near the existing toyota holes. The flywheel adapter makes sure the flywheel is perfectly centered, my only concern is balancing because of the variant amounts of material removed for each hole. Make sure you use a good drill press. I believe mine has to much side to side movement.
Custom water jetted and powder coated throttle bracket to be used with toyota cable (a real simple yet effect adapter, well worth the price)
Motor mounts that bolt to OM617 block and utilize stock 22re rubber mounts and frame mounts. Very slick. (no screwing around with positioning motor for proper clearances ect). Saves a bunch of time and plenty strong.
Transmission Crossmember adjustment plate (tranny comes back just a bit but not enough to warrant lengthening/shortening drive shafts (this is not confirmed yet, I haven't mocked up the shafts yet)
GM cs130 alternator fastening bracket, the alt is already in place with stock belt, I didn't have to change the pulley on the alternator (came out of a late 70's to early 80's GMC sierrra). I used 3 washers to shim the alternator to the front of the mounting gap. I do not see any issues with belt alignment yet.
The donor w56 5 speed came out of 1986 xtra cab with 252k km. I bought the whole truck for $300 for parts. I'll probably end up using some interior parts from it. 22re is in good shape and will hopefully pay for it self and the whole truck. Truck has a sun roof, no leaks..... How I do I get it into the 84
?The donor motor is a om617 out of a 1983 300td wagon. It has approximately 300k km on it. I bought it off a mechanic in Langley BC. He was going to use it to swap into a cherokee. I paid $500. It came with cooler and complete glow plug harness.
I have done the following to the OM617 while it is out of the truck.
Replaced Main front oil seal, with crankshaft spacer ring (they can wear a groove on the top surface and should be replaced). Putting it all back together I may have messed up the pulley mounting alignment because it seems that they have weights welded on and holes drilled for balancing. If the engine ends up being shaky I'll have to take the rad out and reposition the pulley's. The harmonic balancer I am 75% sure I put back on right. Lesson learned. Mark stuff before you pull.
I replaced the valve cover gasket, and will be replacing the oil pan gasket as soon as popular opinion says to notch or not notch the pan. Look in album link for pic on tie rod clearance to oil pan. It seems apparent that the previous owner bent the tie rod on purpose to clear the nissan motor. My theory is as the axle compresses up that it will move back as the shackles move (pickup shackles are on the back not front like a Landcruiser) and give it that extra bit of clearance.
I will be replacing the oil filter housing gasket once I pull the engine from its mock up position. I still need to position the stock oil cooler and will be lengthening the hoses next. The hoses are barbed so you should leave the hose ends attached to oil cooler, popular opinion says they tend to leak once unthreaded. I already had the oil filter housing off once and put it back together with the original gasket and silicone sealant. I am not comfortable with that and will be removing it to clean it up (in hind sight I don't want silicone in my oil passages
, and replace the old gasket with make your own gasket paper (In Canada no auto parts store can supply that oem gasket unless you buy a whole engine kit), let me know if you otherwise know. I'm also pulling the filter housing again because I have decided to adjust the IP before I put the engine in permanently, it much easier to get at the back of the pump with motor out and housing removed.After reading through many threads about pros and cons on Injection Pump adjustments and talking to Brian at tdswaps I will be removing the rack limiter, leaving the ALDA, and adjusting the Torque Capsule and rough idle screw by 1/4 turn each. Here are two links that are a good read on the Mercedes IP (M and MW). One is more pro and the other more against certain adjustments.
Injection Pump fuel adjustment for the MW and M pumps, pyrometer install - Mercedes Forum - Mercedes Benz Enthusiast Forums
IP om617 fuel and boost - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com
I have plumbed in an Oil Pressure gauge into the stock hole on the housing but with 1/8th npt sender. No retapping, just teflon. If it leaks, I'll have to get an adapter. The stock metric thread is quite coarse. See pics
A boost gauge also 1/8th npt, but retapped mounted into the hole that has the 6mm hex plug on the intake manifold. See pics
Autometer water temp sensor into existing block hole. See pics.
I had the exhaust and intake manifolds both off and did a proper pyrometer sensor install. It is recommended to put the probe from underneath the ex-manifold to get accurate pre-turbo ex-temp. Drilled with 21/64 bit and tapped for 1/8th npt. I'm using a Autometer pyro.
I have also read that you can get a better idea of how efficient your turbo is running with an exhaust manifold pressure gauge. Half out of curiosity and half for amusement I will be plumbing a copper gas line tube to a boost gauge with adapter from gas line ferrule fitting to boost gauge sender). Pics to come. A 1/1 EMP to Boost ratio is ideal, anything over 2/1 EMP/Boost means over fueling and unnecessary wear to your engine (from high ex temp).
I hope to have the engine max out at 17psi. The waste-gate can supposedly be adjusted on the Mercedes t3 or you can put a bleeder into the waste gate hose (MBC).
The to do list is the following:
Position oil cooler somewhere underneath the rad out of harms way.
Wire up 22re vacuum solenoid (the blue one on the valve cover) to have a IP kill switch, and plump all other necessary Mercedes vacuum lines.
Figure out how to get dual batteries set up.
Custom make a down pipe and some how route an exhaust, see pic for small space that is available.
I still need to run fuel lines (In and return)
Cut hole into tranny hump for w56 transfer case shifter.
Bolt in stock drive shafts (hopefully
Wire up mercedes glow plug box
I will also be repainting the truck with a nicer green and brushing the frame (rear half) down and rust proofing it.
Building a metal framed flat deck with Headache rack and inlaid with wood.
Attaching custom bumper with Warn 8724
Work lights on Head ache rack
Two Fog lights on Bumper.
Will be running BFG Muds 33x10.5 on Landcruiser alu rims
Future wish list is some kind of rear locker... Suggestions?
Link for FB photo album:
1984 Toyota Hilux Om617 | Facebook
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