1984 Toyota Camry / Vista with 1.8l turbo diesel 1C (2 Viewers)

[Eurasiaoverland]

Don't use anything on that gasket, unless the sealing faces are pitted or gouged.

According to the EPC, your CV10 should have a tachometer pickup. Look at the back of the fuel injection pump (just above where the delivery pipes bolt on to the pump), and there will be a round plug. If there is a single wire/terminal, there is no tachometer pickup. If there are three, you have one.

 

[Mike NXP]

Don't use anything on that gasket, unless the sealing faces are pitted or gouged.

According to the EPC, your CV10 should have a tachometer pickup. Look at the back of the fuel injection pump (just above where the delivery pipes bolt on to the pump), and there will be a round plug. If there is a single wire/terminal, there is no tachometer pickup. If there are three, you have one.

OK good to know on that gasket. Hopefully I can dive into that soon while I wait on my Alternator rebuild
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Oh yeah? OK cool thanks Eurasia you're a wealth of knowledge . Appreciate the reply , I'll poke around and see what I've got going at the injection pump

 

[Mike NXP]

Got a check in from the new alternator rebuilder. Super smart guy, slowly making progress. I posted his notes below for my reference and any folks who are following along.
>> In summary, I think he's on the right track for fixing the alternator. He's starting to think about diving into the vacuum pump as well but I think we will decide to not mess with it due to lack of parts availability and it's not currently leaking or broken . Previous shotty repair work along with sandblasting everything seems to be the fault here

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From the alt. rebuilder
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I disassembled the alternator and found a few problems/chosen repair procedures. The rebuilder only replaced the bad diodes. All the diodes experienced the same trauma. He only replaced the 2 bad positive ones. I would have replaced all. The quality of the soldering of those 2 diodes to the positive rectifier plate isn’t great. The “flow” of solder is lacking which is reducing connectivity to the plate.

Other observations include no evidence of the rear seal being replaced. The O.E. isn’t available without getting the rear end housing, which is NLA. The same goes for the bushing in the housing. The rotor shaft is 16mm ( 5/8”) so a metric or standard seal might be sourced and many starter bushings have 5/8 I.D. and various O.D.s but the O.D. of the housing is an unknown until the old bushing is removed. Sounds like a lot of work with unknown results.

The current seal hasn’t leaked, right? It’ll work until it doesn’t along with the slightly worn bushing

 

[bj70bc]

ya, kinda sounded like a bad rebuild....

 

[Mike NXP]

Still waiting on alternator rebuild update but now is the time to fix the leaking water piper on the backside of engine

• I lucked out and the gasket ordered is seemingly the correct part for the 1c motor
• The other seal is more basic but was super crusty and corroded. It feels like metal and then someone maybe put goop on it too
• I'll clean this all up and either cut a seal for this or maybe just be lazy and use some Permatex

For any other person out there who needs to replace these seals, it wasn't too bad

• Drain coolant from radiator
• Remove wiring connecting to the sensors on pipe
• Remove 3x 12mm nuts on engine side
• Remove 2x 12mm nuts on the pipe side
• Follow the pipe towards the radiator and remove ; 1x 12mm bolt at the engine, 1x 12mm nut on the bracket, and 1x 10mm nut holding some hoses onto this pipe
• Break it all loose by wiggling towards driver side and it will hopefully come apart

 

[AndyMax]

Still waiting on alternator rebuild update but now is the time to fix the leaking water piper on the backside of engine

• I lucked out and the gasket ordered is seemingly the correct part for the 1c motor
• The other seal is more basic but was super crusty and corroded. It feels like metal and then someone maybe put goop on it too
• I'll clean this all up and either cut a seal for this or maybe just be lazy and use some Permatex

View attachment 3898640
View attachment 3898641


For any other person out there who needs to replace these seals, it wasn't too bad

• Drain coolant from radiator
• Remove wiring connecting to the sensors on pipe
• Remove 3x 12mm nuts on engine side
• Remove 2x 12mm nuts on the pipe side
• Follow the pipe towards the radiator and remove ; 1x 12mm bolt at the engine, 1x 12mm nut on the bracket, and 1x 10mm nut holding some hoses onto this pipe
• Break it all loose by wiggling towards driver side and it will hopefully come apart

Thanks again for sharing your experience!

Thought I was going to be pulling my Camry in so restore this weekend and then the 300 TD decided that the alternator, which is new, was going to begin overcharging, so now I've got to figure out what's going on. Probably voltage regulator, which means probably have to pull the alternator for the second time.

In the meantime, I believe I found a radiator that fits the turbo diesel Camry, Nissans 64725, NLA everywhere, but on Amazon. Gave it a shot and see if it's a false listing or they actually still have one to send to me! Cheap enough to where I'd rather have one on the shelf as a spare, especially since I'd like to completely renovate the cooling system

 

[Mike NXP]

Thanks again for sharing your experience!

Thought I was going to be pulling my Camry in so restore this weekend and then the 300 TD decided that the alternator, which is new, was going to begin overcharging, so now I've got to figure out what's going on. Probably voltage regulator, which means probably have to pull the alternator for the second time.

In the meantime, I believe I found a radiator that fits the turbo diesel Camry, Nissans 64725, NLA everywhere, but on Amazon. Gave it a shot and see if it's a false listing or they actually still have one to send to me! Cheap enough to where I'd rather have one on the shelf as a spare, especially since I'd like to completely renovate the cooling system

Ugh what a pain in the ass, I hate doing jobs twice or doing a repair that didn't fix the problem.

That's a good find on the radiator, I wouldn't mind having a spare either since the top tank is starting to discolor a bit on mine. I'd love to know how hot this thing is running and not just rely on the dash gauge....I do have some radiator re builders around that claim they can fabricate something from scratch / fix the original if it were to start leaking just in case but fingers crossed shes good to go for now.

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To add to my misery list, my Highlander is dumping oil from crank seal ( I think ).... cruiser has a flat tire .... and Camry alternator still not repaired.....Suppose I can't really complain because I'm lucky enough to have that GX470 in the driveway. 250k miles and this thing starts and drives better than any vehicle I've owned.

 

[AndyMax]

Ugh what a pain in the ass, I hate doing jobs twice or doing a repair that didn't fix the problem.

That's a good find on the radiator, I wouldn't mind having a spare either since the top tank is starting to discolor a bit on mine. I'd love to know how hot this thing is running and not just rely on the dash gauge....I do have some radiator re builders around that claim they can fabricate something from scratch / fix the original if it were to start leaking just in case but fingers crossed shes good to go for now.

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To add to my misery list, my Highlander is dumping oil from crank seal ( I think ).... cruiser has a flat tire .... and Camry alternator still not repaired.....Suppose I can't really complain because I'm lucky enough to have that GX470 in the driveway. 250k miles and this thing starts and drives better than any vehicle I've owned.

If you’d like to wire a secondary coolant temperature gauge, which I highly recommend, I successfully installed this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SY4U98?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1) in the upper radiator hose of my Camry. I haven’t wired it up yet because I also have a little experiment where I’m going to try to wire a temperature activated switch to an electronic chime so that if coolant ever gets above 206°, I will hear the Chime, because from what I understand overheating is basically death for the head…

I also have a fleet of older vehicles… The 300 TD that’s been in the garage for the past year and a half getting the works done to it, the Camry waiting to get the works done to it, my 1989 Toyota Hiace Pickup that’s leaking diesel out of the injection pump at an alarming rate and my 1999 Cummins 24 valve with 405 K miles on the clock that runs like a champ, but could really use some TLC and a break from daily driving (as well as my wallet), not to mention my wife’s Jeep grand Cherokee CRD, which I just got done deleting all this stupid Mercedes plastic hoses and emissions garbage and finally have it running reliably.

But, we are lucky to suffer for these old reliable rigs.

 

[Mike NXP]

Oh s*** yeah, that little inline coolant temp deal might be an easy enough solution. Putting that task lower on the to-do list for now.

In the meantime, I've got the alternator back in hand!! Going to get it re-installed and tested out this weekend. Rebuilder notes below
>> I hate to be a jerk but I guess I gotta contact the first rebuilder and ask for refund

>> Also I want to redact my previous recommendation, if anyone in the area ( or probably anywhere if you ship it ) need a smart electronic guy who knows Toyota and old s*** call Larco Electronics in Kalispell MT. He charged me $200 and took the time to take pictures and label everything for me.. that's less money than the first guy who ****ed it all up charged me

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[Mike NXP]

Never thought I'd be so happy to see every light on my dashboard... Just threw alternator in, grounded it, and plugged in connector to test it all out. Seems like the problem has been solved.

The initial cause of failure is unknown. The first rebuild cause of failure appears to be too much paint, not a proper flow of ground through the stud ( affecting the L circuit and all dash lights ) and some poor solder on the diodes.

Next up on the to-do list for my reference:
- Re-attach belt
- Install 2x oil lines to backside of alternator
- Then set belt tension
- Connect all electrical and vacuum hoses

- Re-seal metal coolant crossover tube

-Test run and check for charge / no leaks

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Never thought I'd be so happy to see every light on my dashboard... Just threw alternator in, grounded it, and plugged in connector to test it all out. Seems like the problem has been solved.

The initial cause of failure is unknown. The first rebuild cause of failure appears to be too much paint, not a proper flow of ground through the stud ( affecting the L circuit and all dash lights ) and some poor solder on the diodes.

Next up on the to-do list for my reference:
- Re-attach belt
- Install 2x oil lines to backside of alternator
- Then set belt tension
- Connect all electrical and vacuum hoses

- Re-seal metal coolant crossover tube

-Test run and check for charge / no leaks

View attachment 3902720

That is a very cool dashboard! Great that it seems to all be working.

 

[bj70bc]

im glad it was that 1st rebuild.... only thing that made sense

 

[Mike NXP]

That is a very cool dashboard! Great that it seems to all be working.

Right? Fully lit up, zig zag fuel gauge, and old analog clock ticking away....I'm excited to get it fired up again , I want to see a charge on the battery and no other issues after letting it run for a while before I can officially call it done

I've got to let the Permatex dry and will re-fill and test run everything this weekend.

 

[Mike NXP]

If you’d like to wire a secondary coolant temperature gauge, which I highly recommend, I successfully installed this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SY4U98?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1) in the upper radiator hose of my Camry. I haven’t wired it up yet because I also have a little experiment where I’m going to try to wire a temperature activated switch to an electronic chime so that if coolant ever gets above 206°, I will hear the Chime, because from what I understand overheating is basically death for the head…

** edit

Measured inner diameter of upper hose and confirmed andymax comment on 1 1/4" or 32mm.

Link below to a gauge with alarm like you were thinking. I ordered it, might work, might not but worth a try for now. If it s***s out I'll go for the fancier one on that glow shift website
>> Gauge with alarm

 

[LDRF]

Seems like the problem has been solved

YAAAAAAAAAY!!!

I've been on edge for weeks and have been rooting for a fix every time I saw a new post notification.

Larco Electronics in Kalispell MT

Good tradespersons are hard to find. Good job Larco!

 

[Mike NXP]

YAAAAAAAAAY!!!

I've been on edge for weeks and have been rooting for a fix every time I saw a new post notification.

Good tradespersons are hard to find. Good job Larco!

For sure me too, I'd be lying if I said I didn't sit up a few nights tossing and turning thinking about this one lol .... We all need some misery in our lives, buy a 40+ year old Toyota and you will be set for a while


Coolants going in and hope to test run today for the official clean bill of health

 

[Mike NXP]

Testing results were interesting.....I think we're good to go but...

• Fired it up, all dash lights and glow plugs work. Walked over to volt meter with engine running and it was barely at 12.4.....I got really sad
• I went to the post on the alternator and showed 13.5 and climbing
• After about 1 minute the engine idles up a bit ( heater is on ) and it begins to show a solid charge.
  
  
• So this may be normal for this vehicle IDK. I'm used to seeing near 14V consistently right right start and revving the engine shouldn't really have much affect but IDK about these older systems

I think I'm calling this good to go for now . Coolant seems to be sealed in ( even though I did a really sloppy Permatex job ) . Going to change oil over to 15w40 and ride this thing out until the next problem
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Upon first start up video below, wasn't showing a charge at first

 

[Mike NXP]

I noticed a slow coolant drip. Panicked and thought it was from the pipe / new seal but looked closer and it seems like its dripping out of one of the coolant temp sensor

Quick question for the Mud World :
Was I supposed to use Teflon tape on this sensor? I always thought pipe threads don't need it.

I did manage to tighten the sensor up another 1-2 turns and that seems to have stopped the drip for now. Will keep running it and keeping an eye on everything


Thanks Mud world

 

[Mike NXP]

Realized I uploaded the same video twice earlier.

After running for 1-2 minutes the battery started to show a steady charge again. Idle is a bit high because heater is turned on and it kicks it up a bit

Life is good for now

 

[AussieHJCruza]

On the sender threads, I normally put a smear of something like https://www.repco.com.au/car-care-p...JjkCP60lfz5K_kA9TIKM6bjTM3Xaoh38aAtaREALw_wcB however I don't think Mr Yota lists them as requiring something and don't overdo it, sender needs to ground out to the engine block, but I find a bit of peace of mind knowing that it won't weep and the threads won't gall.