1984 Toyota Camry / Vista with 1.8l turbo diesel 1C

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Probably not too rusty if its up in Oregon, especially along the coast.....How much$$$

I've got the 1C service manual and will post info on anything injector pump related....

I believe it will be a bit of a bitch especially if timing belt is coming off, not to mention once that's off you might as well do that + water pump.... i'm not 100% sure if it has to but will learn more about it today and report back
hey does that repair manuel you have contain tourqe specs for stuff like the timing chain, headdbolts, injector pump and other vehicle parts?
 
hey does that repair manuel you have contain tourqe specs for stuff like the timing chain, headdbolts, injector pump and other vehicle parts?
Hey, sorry dude I didn't see this message.

( We have a timing belt, not chain )

Yes, the manual I have has all of the info needed. Section A-11 seems to be the sweet spot for diesel engine related stuff. Torque specs can also be assumed based on bolt size and grade and there is a chart for that too.

My camera sucks but let me know if you need me to get something more specific for you. The follow pages have service specs on just about everything

You about to rebuild the motor ?

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Otherwise my ol' Camry is doing good. Anyone out there driving these old things should definitely get a temperature gauge in there. It helped me learn what the motor likes , which is just farting along. I cruise at 60 mph everyday to work and average 42mpg and have seen as high as 45mpg when I drop my speeds down....

The turbo barely has to work at these speeds but when you start pushing 70 mph , the turbo light stays on pretty consistently and that mixed with hot outside temps definitely gets the motor hot...But if you keep it around 60 its happy......I'd guess at 60mph I'm probably at like 2400 RPMS

My biggest complaint ??? All the tiny dicked losers blowing by me in their huge trucks getting pissed that I'm just cruising at 60 mph.....

Going to switch over to 10w30 as temps drop and put the studded snow tires on soon, will keep driving this car all through winter .

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i paid 1500$ usd for the car. also the coolant looks like mud and smells like fish. it shifts great
haha dude, nice! Love that color

How bad leaking is your pump? a little weep or is it dripping? Pop the hood, lets see that bad boy
 
haha dude, nice! Love that color

How bad leaking is your pump? a little weep or is it dripping? Pop the hood, lets see that bad boy
it weeps drips and sprays there is a puddle of diesel where i park it and the injector needs to be primed aftermore than an hour of sitting. it still drives okay for leeking like a sieve with diesel. the seal around the throttle arm is one of the big leaks. and there is one that sprays a fine stream of diesel about 5 inches lond ffrom a blocking plate near the bottom off the injector

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haha dude, nice! Love that color

How bad leaking is your pump? a little weep or is it dripping? Pop the hood, lets see that bad boy
got some real rain in the central valley today and the windshield seal is leaking BAD. i got a tarp on it while it was dark and the rain was pouring. weighed it down with bricks. there go my rainy weather driving ideas
 
and the timing belt is from 1996
haha hell yeah, I think the sticker under my hood says 1996 as well. I've got to check....nothing like some timing belt paranoia

Shoot, window leak? I wonder if you can find a local glass shop to remove and re-seal....Probably not crazy expensive but depends on if you have a glass shop willing to work on it.....If I recall, we have some chrome trim around the window that may be brittle but otherwise you gotta get that sucker all sealed up ....
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haha hell yeah, I think the sticker under my hood says 1996 as well. I've got to check....nothing like some timing belt paranoia

Shoot, window leak? I wonder if you can find a local glass shop to remove and re-seal....Probably not crazy expensive but depends on if you have a glass shop willing to work on it.....If I recall, we have some chrome trim around the window that may be brittle but otherwise you gotta get that sucker all sealed up ....View attachment 4010685
i looked at it in the light of day and the whole seal at the top of the windshield is gone basicly. so rn until i can aford a proper repair im gonna get some rtv silicone gasket material and fill it in
 
i looked at it in the light of day and the whole seal at the top of the windshield is gone basicly. so rn until i can aford a proper repair im gonna get some rtv silicone gasket material and fill it in
the tarp is keeping the inside of the car dry. thats good ill be able to put on the rtv in the morning tommarow after it stops raining
 
yo is this thread dead bc boy do i have some updates for yall
Not dead for me, I drive my Camry every day and ready to hear all about yours lol

I don't mind at all but if you want to keep track of your progress it may be helpful to start a fresh thread of your own but no big deal either way
 
I don't mind at all but if you want to keep track of your progress it may be helpful to start a fresh thread of your own but no big deal either way

Fresh thread is a great idea, helps to keep everything untangled and easier to follow!
 
Not dead for me, I drive my Camry every day and ready to hear all about yours lol

I don't mind at all but if you want to keep track of your progress it may be helpful to start a fresh thread of your own but no big deal either way
yeah thats a good idea. you are one of the few souces of good info i get get on this engine.

i ran the engine with out coolant for like 20..ish miles a week ago? and she has a head gasket leak for sure.

the starter cables deciede they dont want to be insulated anymore and melted there own insulation??? an the starter jamed itself some how???. idk..

i decided since the head gasket has to be redone and car has lost power i better take the injector pump off and see what its issue is i got the top part of it off and the o ring on the shaft for the throttle body arm was no longer sealing (thats where the leaking was coming from) i put a generic nitrile oring on the shaft and it seems to be sealing up WAY BETTER i can feel resistance with silding it up and down (i did not have that before)

oh and the brass fitting to use a compression tester on a glow plug hole broke off FLUSH with the head when i was gonna do a second run of compression tests.

compression of each cylinder from left to right is as follows 120ish, 270-300, 270-300, 270-300

so one cylinder is not compressing like the others i get add pictures to the thread in the morning.

i have a headgasket (from ebay) coming in next week and a starter (from rock auto) coming in by the tenth
 
Im also nervous to pull the head off. but it has to be done so i can see if the head cracked or not. and the piston walls are not scored.

any advice i can get?

before i pull the head off
 
yeah thats a good idea. you are one of the few souces of good info i get get on this engine.

i ran the engine with out coolant for like 20..ish miles a week ago? and she has a head gasket leak for sure.

the starter cables deciede they dont want to be insulated anymore and melted there own insulation??? an the starter jamed itself some how???. idk..

i decided since the head gasket has to be redone and car has lost power i better take the injector pump off and see what its issue is i got the top part of it off and the o ring on the shaft for the throttle body arm was no longer sealing (thats where the leaking was coming from) i put a generic nitrile oring on the shaft and it seems to be sealing up WAY BETTER i can feel resistance with silding it up and down (i did not have that before)

oh and the brass fitting to use a compression tester on a glow plug hole broke off FLUSH with the head when i was gonna do a second run of compression tests.

compression of each cylinder from left to right is as follows 120ish, 270-300, 270-300, 270-300

so one cylinder is not compressing like the others i get add pictures to the thread in the morning.

i have a headgasket (from ebay) coming in next week and a starter (from rock auto) coming in by the tenth
Sounds like you've been having some s***ty luck

- So do you think you are leaking coolant or just burning it all up? A bunch of my rubber lines were dry and worn out and had leaks too

- I will get you a picture of the electrical path for starter circuit. Something must have grounded out like a corroded cable or it maybe because the starter is stuck open it pulled excessive load and melted your cables.

- I have been out camping but when I have some time I will get the service manual and start taking pictures of the head gasket replacement procedure and other information that might help out... I have zero experience with the process on this motor but I guess it just depends on your skill level...It seems like these motors get hot when run at too high of speeds and this seems to be the story of the few I have encountered. I lucked out with mine and someone already did the head gasket but it still gets hot if I run it at 65+mph

- I know the service manual also has specs on what compression should be. I'll post those soon too.

I have a question about removing the head can i leave the rocker arm on it? so i dont have to figure out valve timing and lose those parts
I'm no help here at all sorry dude....There are a bunch of smart toyota diesel guys on here but not many with experience with 1C motor but its probably like other models out there...Start a fresh thread to keep up with all of this if you are about to dive in. Hopefully I can find some useful info in service manual for you
 
I have a question about removing the head can i leave the rocker arm on it? so i dont have to figure out valve timing and lose those parts
It's a camshaft, not a rocker shaft, so there are no rockers arms.

If you can access all the head bolts, no need to remove the camshaft (though it is not a lot of work).
 
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