1984 FJ60 Engine Sputtering, Bucking - FIXED!!!

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So finally got my fuel filter and installed it today. Had some junk in the old one, looked like maybe rust colored junk when I poured the fuel in it out. Gave it a test drive and at first it would not idle properly. I did not use the choke at all thinking it was already warmed up. After taking it up to speed then it started idling properly. Got it out on the highway and it seems to have a little more power now.....could be me just getting used to the truck.....or could be its helped some to replace the fuel filter. Even if it has not, I at least know its been done. Will check it this week and see how it does.
 
OK so seems that this new fuel filter has wreaked havoc on my engines ability to idle. Ever since replacing it, the engine will not reliably idle. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Been having issues with it all weekend off and on. Last time it happened I had gone to the auto parts store a short distance from the house. Stopped engine, sat for like 10 minutes, came out of store, hard to start, then when it did start it would not stay running. Kept having to give it gas to keep it alive. Same stuff as before. Finally after revving it a bit it smoothed out and continued to idle. I shut it off and then checked the fuel cutoff solenoid but with the key on unplugging the cable to the solenoid and plugging it in to hear it click. Tried several times and could hear it clicking each time. Started the truck up, it idled fine so I took it home.

So it seems the next step on the list of possible issues is the EGR valve if I recall. Could someone again give me the low down on how to check this to rule it out as the source of the issue? The bucking is gone. Has not happened in forever. It just won't reliably idle anymore. Revving engine a bit gets it going so its almost as if there is a plugged fuel line which when lots of fuel pressure is developed by revving the engine it pumps whatever obstruction there is through and runs normally.

One thing I did is watch the fuel filter when it idles normally. Should you be able to see bubbles as the fuel is going through the filter? I see bubbles in the top of the fuel filter as fuel is going past. And after you shut the engine off, how much fuel should remain in the filter? Thanks for continued help here.
 
Odd that a simple fuel filter would cause that much trouble but.. if it had a bunch of material in it you could have accidentally shaken up the pieces and some went up into your pump.
Did you happen to eyeball the sight window on your carb?
 
Odd that a simple fuel filter would cause that much trouble but.. if it had a bunch of material in it you could have accidentally shaken up the pieces and some went up into your pump.
Did you happen to eyeball the sight window on your carb?

I did not look at the sight window. The engine dies so fast its dead before I can get out and see it. Need someone with me looking at it I guess.
 
Pretty classic ICS ground issue it seems to me.

Remember the ICS grounds (switches ) at the computer. Hearing it click means it works but again....the issue is not the ICS itself it the ground side

If it runs with the choke out that is probably it.
 
Pretty classic ICS ground issue it seems to me.

Remember the ICS grounds (switches ) at the computer. Hearing it click means it works but again....the issue is not the ICS itself it the ground side

If it runs with the choke out that is probably it.

OK sorry I am not sure I understand. You are saying that the ground is provided at the computer which tells the solenoid when to energize and open. But if I hear it clicking, doesn't that prove the ground is OK? Otherwise with a bad ground the solenoid would not energize at all thus stopping fuel flow? It does run with the choke out when this happens.

When you say 'the issue is not the ICS itself it the ground side' you mean the computer in that it may be intermittently not grounding properly (switches on and off) when it needs to as to indicate the computer is maybe bad or the ground lead from the computer is intermittent.

Apologies for being slow here. I have like a week of these cruisers under my belt. Lots to learn. Thanks very much for the help.
 
you got it!

to bypass the computer(where the ICS grounds)

pic of what to do(without hacking up wiring). In short, you just need to jumper wires, one will ground to the carb.

unplug the ICS, get 2 pieces of wire(16guage or so) and a few normal male and female spade terminals(I think .25") 1 wire will have a male end and a female end, this goes just goes between the 2 plugs and is the postive(power) . Other will have a male(or maybe female) spade, other end a ring terminal. One end goes to the ICS, other will go to a screw on the carb(grounding it out)




OK sorry I am not sure I understand. You are saying that the ground is provided at the computer which tells the solenoid when to energize and open. But if I hear it clicking, doesn't that prove the ground is OK? Otherwise with a bad ground the solenoid would not energize at all thus stopping fuel flow? It does run with the choke out when this happens.

When you say 'the issue is not the ICS itself it the ground side' you mean the computer in that it may be intermittently not grounding properly (switches on and off) when it needs to as to indicate the computer is maybe bad or the ground lead from the computer is intermittent.

Apologies for being slow here. I have like a week of these cruisers under my belt. Lots to learn. Thanks very much for the help.
 
OK got it. I'll try this and see if I get better results. No long term harmful side-effects to the solenoid running this way correct? Seems as though many folks do this so I would guess not. Are the computers available from Toyota any longer? Seem to be just PCB boards rather than actual computers. Like an electronic multi-switch of sorts. Thanks again for the help.
 
pretty much no issue(someone may disagree), both my fj60 and fj40 have been running like this for 4 or more years. Earlier cruisers just had a 1 wire ICS with no computer, my 65 fj45 is like this.

no new computers but if you good soldering they are repairable

OK got it. I'll try this and see if I get better results. No long term harmful side-effects to the solenoid running this way correct? Seems as though many folks do this so I would guess not. Are the computers available from Toyota any longer? Seem to be just PCB boards rather than actual computers. Like an electronic multi-switch of sorts. Thanks again for the help.
 
They aren't avail but some have had luck reflowing the lead on the circuit board or you can take it to an old radio/amp ect shop for them to do it.
 
They aren't avail but some have had luck reflowing the lead on the circuit board or you can take it to an old radio/amp ect shop for them to do it.

Pretty easy to do... I've found a couple Toyota radios with fractured solder joints and reflowing them with a soldering iron solved the problem. Worth looking at the circuit board to see if there's anything off or you can pick up a spare from someone parting out a truck.
 
I have my stock carb cooling fan board and I pulled it apart but couldn't see anything off. When I swapped it out tho w/ another I got from a guy here on mud I now have a working fan.
Do you have pixs of bad connections? Or are they that obvious?
 
never opened one up..

I have my stock carb cooling fan board and I pulled it apart but couldn't see anything off. When I swapped it out tho w/ another I got from a guy here on mud I now have a working fan.
Do you have pixs of bad connections? Or are they that obvious?
 
I'm just swapping out a bunch of problems at once

IMG_8164.JPG
 
The broken solder connections were pretty obvious with the radio I was looking at. One of them was near the connector and I'm pretty sure someone caused the break when they disconnected the unit from the harness. The soldering was kind of skimpy at the fracture point too. So, I'm sure that's what contributed to the problem. I didn't take any pictures though. Sorry
 
Get a new carb from @Racer65 and you will be gold. Just did it. Runs like a sewing machine.

I've been quietly watching this thread as me and Robert have the same truck it sounds like.

I was planning on taking it to a local old school shop that specializes in carb tuning but the more and more I think about it, I might just need to bite the bullet and get a trollhole or cityracer


**edit, just checked out cityracer and they are all sold out :'(
 
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