Where is this screw for the ac idle up located exactly?? These are for idle up in blue and the red is idle speed with choke, correct?... where is the AC screw.... totally missing it.
Also, where is this solenoid for the ac idle up located? Thanks!
1984 FJ60 Engine Sputtering, Bucking - FIXED!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gretsch
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Also, where is this solenoid for the ac idle up located? Thanks!
other side(front) of the carb below the sight glass window, only screw adjustment on the front of the carb.
pic borrowed from the internet(but its from mud)
pic borrowed from the internet(but its from mud)
other side(front) of the carb below the sight glass window, only screw adjustment on the front of the carb.
pic borrowed from the internet(but its from mud)
Perfect!! Thanks! Also, where is the AC solenoid???
Ac idle up diaphragm circled...follow vacuum line to solenoid (arrow)...mines not in the stock location.
Thanks! What is the easiest way to tell if it is bad? And are they still available??
The solenoid should hold vacuum on one port (the one at the tip)when there is no power on it. The other port should be a passthrough to the back little filter...air flows through them. When 12vdc is applied, there should be air flow across the two ports and no airflow between either port to the back little filter. So when the AC powers up, the manifold vacuum is applied to the ac idle up diaghragm.
The diaghragm should pull the linkage into itself if you put a mighty vac on it.
The diaghragm should pull the linkage into itself if you put a mighty vac on it.
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the original part is NLA but there are others(new Toyota from other models or Aisin's from amazon, $30-40) that will work in its place. If you desmog than I think the EGR uses the same part(or close)
Ok, I will do some more investigations... I adjusted the idle up to about 7-800 and 12-1400 on AC idle...sputtering seems to have gotten better. Still got a little sputter/skip at 7-800...any other thoughts that might help?
I have my idle @700 rpm. With AC idle up its @900. 12-1400 rpm is bit high i think you have poss vacuum leak/carb issue. What's fuel level at in fuel bowl?
If the idle is jumping up when the AC is powered on, the solenoid and ac idle up diaghragm are working.
I'll check fuel levels in the AM....carb is complete rebuild.... maybe vac leak... just re plumbed all vac lines and replaced a few vsv's ...engine seems to sputter below 750ish but is pretty decent at 750-800 and if I'm not at 12-1400 when ac is turned on... air is warm. Compressor is not getting enough rpm's at 900-1000? This is a brand new compressor with the 134 conversion kit... kind of scratching my head a bit.
Duh!.......thanks. Didn't put that together. Much appreciated.
Might just need to adjust the setting on the AC amplifier.
Post#9 has a good method
Explain what the AC Amplifier does ?
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Ok, that helped.
So, I have adjusted my engine idle to 700. Sounds good. I have also adjusted my AC idle to about 1000. I took a look at the amplifier Anita is at the lowest RPM. I verified that the compressor comes on and is spinning when button is pushed. Only problem is that the Air blows warm. The shop that did the R134 conversion said it was charged with 6oz oil and a pound and a half of Freon ...and no leaks... so now what? Are they B.Sh#**ing me? What am I missing?
System capacity is more than that for freon. What are pressure a on high and low side? Did they use a vacuum pump on the system?
My thoughts too... not sure if they used a vac system... they are an AC shop, so I guess I just assumed...(probably my issue). How much r134 can it take or does it need??
Probably 2.5 cans max
But it really should be basedone on pressure readings even 75%full it should blow cool
Wondering if these guys just took me for a ride....But it really should be basedone on pressure readings even 75%full it should blow cool
