1982 FJ43 - my ‘replacement’ build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mdsims
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- #22
Yes. Good point. Those shims are thick, more like a heavy 3/8” each. I was originally thinking I could use one or two those to level the cruiser lean, then remove the extras entirely to get some more spring/u bolt clearance. But now I’m wondering if I’ll need to move them up to fix my height issue. Only real downside is it shifts the packs themselves closer to the ground, and axles closer to the vehicle. Another thing I noticed is on the rear, the 43/45 packs have very long helper springs that I could see getting hung up on low obstacles.
Just measured, both shims together are right at 7/8”.
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- #23
I can’t see a reason they ‘need’ them, other than to ensure compatibility with 99% of the available U bolts and associated hardware. Most U bolts aren’t fully threaded, so making packs 1” thinner might impact some folks not being able to spin the nuts down . I’m running the 4Plus flip kit, which has more thread to go so I think I’d be fine to remove the shims and get shorter spring pins, etc.
FWIW I'd call Georg and ask the ? because I believe the fulcrum point ( where spacer ends ) and the space it creates on both sides of the spring let the parabolics travel thru their intended arc whereas a longer surface or no space may effect the intended design, just a thought.
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- #25
I’ll ask the guru at some point.
I did bring it up with staff when I picked them up from the TT warehouse and I’m fairly sure the feedback was those were there to keep the pack thickness normal, and I could also use them to level the rig.
Here’s a photo. The main leaves themselves are tapered, so with stiff bottom plates (like 4Plus) the bearing surface will be similar. If it is a problem, a piece of 1/8” or 3/16” stock would negate.
I’ll have to experiment on it down the line. Trying to get back on the road first. Pictures are older. Some fasteners missing, etc.
Front springs.
Rear, note the overload leaf (only for 43/45s). Super beefy.
Rear again, wondering how the overload leaf will do off-road. I’m almost tempted to pull it entirely. This soft top 43 isn’t that much heavier than a 40, but the spring packs are longer overall…so tbd.
I did bring it up with staff when I picked them up from the TT warehouse and I’m fairly sure the feedback was those were there to keep the pack thickness normal, and I could also use them to level the rig.
Here’s a photo. The main leaves themselves are tapered, so with stiff bottom plates (like 4Plus) the bearing surface will be similar. If it is a problem, a piece of 1/8” or 3/16” stock would negate.
I’ll have to experiment on it down the line. Trying to get back on the road first. Pictures are older. Some fasteners missing, etc.
Front springs.
Rear, note the overload leaf (only for 43/45s). Super beefy.
Rear again, wondering how the overload leaf will do off-road. I’m almost tempted to pull it entirely. This soft top 43 isn’t that much heavier than a 40, but the spring packs are longer overall…so tbd.
- Thread starter
- #26
Drove maybe a half mile so far. Feels much softer. Even just jumping on the running boards the cruiser feels more flexy and less stiff. I had a new set of OME springs I bought for this, and once I saw them I knew it wasn’t what I wanted. I have OME on another cruiser and it’s great. But their 45 packs are super thick.
Anyway, I’ll be sure to update here once I’m mobile again. Any items you want pictures of? Can take specific ones tonight.
Anyway, I’ll be sure to update here once I’m mobile again. Any items you want pictures of? Can take specific ones tonight.
Honestly just pictures of the overall stance and fitment. But I'm sure we'll get that at some point anyway haha. I'm glad to hear things are riding nice, following this thread!
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- #28
The 31x10.5 15s are a bit small. Have 16” wheels ready to go. Larger meats might be counterproductive if I’m trying to lower the height. Hoping to have my cake and eat it too.
That's actually really interesting to see as I was thinking that parabolic suspension kit and 31s would be perfect on my BJ44. I think I'd have to move the spacers around 
thanks for sharing
thanks for sharing
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- #30
Stock length shackles are in. Picked these up from FJParts.com. Fast shipping! They’re Joint Fuji brand, super impressed with the heft and quality of them. Price was great and they came with nice rubber bushings. When I was swapping in the parabolics, I’d installed some Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. They were so stiff and tight, fought them through the entire installation. Figured I’d install these rubber ones, marked with OEM part numbers, and they were a breeze. Most slid in/on by hand compared to needing clamps for the polyurethane bushes.
Stock shackles dropped both sides in the rear by about 1/2”. So that’s something good to report!
I have another 7/8” available in the spacer swap. Gas tank is empty. Springs haven’t settled yet. All that should amount to something. Looking like there might be hope of fitting through the door after all.
Stock shackles dropped both sides in the rear by about 1/2”. So that’s something good to report!
I have another 7/8” available in the spacer swap. Gas tank is empty. Springs haven’t settled yet. All that should amount to something. Looking like there might be hope of fitting through the door after all.
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- #31
Bent up new hard lines for the front axle, that move the tee over to the passenger side. Had to make up a bracket for the tee as well.
Worked out well. Bending lines is interesting. Best to work slow. In my mind, I expected these to be super clean, tight to the axle, etc. turned out well enough, but something I’m sure I will get better at next time.
Also found some other frame mounted hard lines I want to replace before I fill the master. Bad looking flares that I don’t think will seal and were installed with easily 10 wraps of Teflon tape. What a mess.
Ordered more of the flare nuts which should be here tomorrow.
Worked out well. Bending lines is interesting. Best to work slow. In my mind, I expected these to be super clean, tight to the axle, etc. turned out well enough, but something I’m sure I will get better at next time.
Also found some other frame mounted hard lines I want to replace before I fill the master. Bad looking flares that I don’t think will seal and were installed with easily 10 wraps of Teflon tape. What a mess.
Ordered more of the flare nuts which should be here tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #32
Then got to thinking about the master cylinder on this truck. Drum front and drum rear, 1982. Front drums were visually different than the early US drum fronts. Much beefier. Rears are the typical 60/62/80 drums.
I wonder, will this master work correctly with the 62 front brakes I just swapped in? Long shot, but here’s a photo or two if anyone out there can tell. Oem part number for the rig subs to 47207-60010, anyone know if that came with a residual pressure valve in the front circuit?
I’m anxious to get back on the road, so I’m just going to run it and see. I’d rather not crack open the can of worms the master/booster could be. Not yet at least. If the fronts drag or are weak, City Racer will be my next call.
I wonder, will this master work correctly with the 62 front brakes I just swapped in? Long shot, but here’s a photo or two if anyone out there can tell. Oem part number for the rig subs to 47207-60010, anyone know if that came with a residual pressure valve in the front circuit?
I’m anxious to get back on the road, so I’m just going to run it and see. I’d rather not crack open the can of worms the master/booster could be. Not yet at least. If the fronts drag or are weak, City Racer will be my next call.
- Thread starter
- #33
Found a picture of the 1982 front drum brake axle. It’s been a while since I pulled the drums off my 1971, but they seemed much smaller, and I don’t remember the drums having heat ribs.
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- #34
Nothing too fancy, but got the new meats mounted up. Going to toss them on tonight and see if I can fit in/out of the garage!
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You’ll need to change that master cylinder to a regular disc/drum MC. Your’s (should) have a residual valve in the front circuit, and the fronts will drag if you don’t remove it. Alternatively, you can just remove the residual valve.
OEM Brake Master Cylinder 1981-1990 FJ40 FJ60
Aisin (OEM) made brake master cylinder which works on 8/1980 and newer Land Cruiser models with disc front brakes. FJ40, 43, 45, 60, 62, as well as many 70 series models. Also works well as a replacement for NLA 75-80 FJ40 master cylinder with minor brake line mods. Cap not included, available...
cruisermatts.com
- Thread starter
- #36
I was tempted anyway, but your message was well timed! Ordered.You’ll need to change that master cylinder to a regular disc/drum MC. Your’s (should) have a residual valve in the front circuit, and the fronts will drag if you don’t remove it. Alternatively, you can just remove the residual valve.
OEM Brake Master Cylinder 1981-1990 FJ40 FJ60
Aisin (OEM) made brake master cylinder which works on 8/1980 and newer Land Cruiser models with disc front brakes. FJ40, 43, 45, 60, 62, as well as many 70 series models. Also works well as a replacement for NLA 75-80 FJ40 master cylinder with minor brake line mods. Cap not included, available...cruisermatts.com
- Thread starter
- #37
It fits?
Not well enough yet.
Not well enough yet.
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- #38
Pulled the master tonight, no residual valves in either cylinder. That wasn’t unexpected, I searched up an old thread from Kurt that listed this equivalent MC (Aisin BMT-040) as not having any residual valves either.
Happy to find the rear seal was solid and booster checked out as healthy. MC was easy to operate with a finger, so my guess is it’s still good.
All the flares on this rig are flared so wide and thin that they drag in/out of the bores on the hoses, fittings, MC. This last one could cut a finger open! Not looking to tackle remaking the firewall hard lines yet so I just cut the ends off and re-flared them. New vs old. I did the same at the lines on the frame rail, and replaced the shorty that runs forward to the soft line. Lots of clean up.
Anticipating the new MC to arrive this week, but I’ll be out of town for a bit.
Happy to find the rear seal was solid and booster checked out as healthy. MC was easy to operate with a finger, so my guess is it’s still good.
All the flares on this rig are flared so wide and thin that they drag in/out of the bores on the hoses, fittings, MC. This last one could cut a finger open! Not looking to tackle remaking the firewall hard lines yet so I just cut the ends off and re-flared them. New vs old. I did the same at the lines on the frame rail, and replaced the shorty that runs forward to the soft line. Lots of clean up.
Anticipating the new MC to arrive this week, but I’ll be out of town for a bit.
