- Thread starter
- #21
more still...
Parts in primer ready for paint...
Parts in primer ready for paint...
1981 FJ40 Restore Project
- Thread starter johnkappus
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
more still...
top parts ready for paint
top parts ready for paint
- Thread starter
- #23
more still...
more...more...more
more...more...more
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- #24
more...
more views / old driver side floor / welded up passenger side floor
more views / old driver side floor / welded up passenger side floor
- Thread starter
- #25
So, lots of progress in the last few weeks...still lots more clean up of the rust that was hidden in and on the frame.
But the light at the end of the tunnel is getting closer.
Trying to decide what to do for coating onthe bottom...i like a color matched liner and have seen a lot of guys use SEM tintable here. Would like to hear what everyones opinion is and see what would be best.
The pilgrim half tub is SWEEET!!!!
I have a brand new rear channel from CCOT and I have two "inner" rockers that i won't need...PM me if you are interested in either or both.
But the light at the end of the tunnel is getting closer.
Trying to decide what to do for coating onthe bottom...i like a color matched liner and have seen a lot of guys use SEM tintable here. Would like to hear what everyones opinion is and see what would be best.
The pilgrim half tub is SWEEET!!!!
I have a brand new rear channel from CCOT and I have two "inner" rockers that i won't need...PM me if you are interested in either or both.
- Thread starter
- #26
Yes that stripper lots to have worked well, what brand/kind
Oh...it was just regular old aircraft stripper...nothing fancy
Why POR on new shiny metal? Did you blast it first to give it something to "bite" to? POR doesn't like fresh metal, nor is it a good practice to apply to anything but rust or sandblasted metal. It may end up peeling and causing more rust in the long run.
- Thread starter
- #28
hmmm
it was treated with metal prep / ready prior to painting and the directions said it could be used on shiney metal. have you found that this doesnt work?
PREP & READYTM provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any metal surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel.
it was treated with metal prep / ready prior to painting and the directions said it could be used on shiney metal. have you found that this doesnt work?
PREP & READYTM provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any metal surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel.
I think you will be fine. I think people get a little excited thinking rust has to be part of the equation for this stuff to work properly.
Splangy ~ do you have experience with this?
Splangy ~ do you have experience with this?
Yes, I speak from experience. POR-15 is meant to be used as a last-resort; for times like when your undercarriage is just too rusty to remove all of the rust and get it down to bare metal. An epoxy primer/paint will be much more durable and stick a lot better than POR-15 on a properly prepared surface.
That said, you'll probably be fine since it seems like you used all the necessary prep products. Just don't expect the same results as a quality automotive paint/primer combo.
That said, you'll probably be fine since it seems like you used all the necessary prep products. Just don't expect the same results as a quality automotive paint/primer combo.
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The Prep & Ready (they called it Metal Ready before) seems to help on steel in any condition (rusty or clean), as long as one carefully neutralizes it per instructions. They say it evens helps welding? Not neutralized and it can probably create problems for any finish that comes after.
POR15 has it's place but I'm afraid I also don't think it's the way to go on new steel. A lot of us have had a tendency to go for it because we don't have a spray booth and lots fancy paint guns lying around. We want to think it's powder-coat in a can. I've seen it on new, Metal-Ready-treated steel where I could peel it back off with my fingernail. And even on rust, it you don't prep correctly you can take a screw driver and scrape it right off. On cleaned and treated surface rust it sticks really well, seals and seems to work as advertised. This, I think, is why you often hear people complaining about POR15 not standing up on a frame, etc. when rocks/whatever start knocking the stuff off. I tried brushing it into "new" welded seams for a while, thinking of corrosion prevention before final paint/seam sealer but now I'm moving to small batches of 2 part epoxy primer for that.
I'm using POR15 in the bottoms of my doors (and other areas), where the steel has been cleaned and prepped but light surface rust remains down in the lower "sandwich" area. IMHO that's the kind of place to pour in the POR. But new steel needs something that really grabs - epoxy primer/sealer, etc. - and provides a proper foundation for primer/base layers that follow. Like Splangy said
BTW - In my experience - the thicker you put POR15 on - the easier it comes back off. And be careful welding around POR and breathing the smoke.
POR15 has it's place but I'm afraid I also don't think it's the way to go on new steel. A lot of us have had a tendency to go for it because we don't have a spray booth and lots fancy paint guns lying around. We want to think it's powder-coat in a can. I've seen it on new, Metal-Ready-treated steel where I could peel it back off with my fingernail. And even on rust, it you don't prep correctly you can take a screw driver and scrape it right off. On cleaned and treated surface rust it sticks really well, seals and seems to work as advertised. This, I think, is why you often hear people complaining about POR15 not standing up on a frame, etc. when rocks/whatever start knocking the stuff off. I tried brushing it into "new" welded seams for a while, thinking of corrosion prevention before final paint/seam sealer but now I'm moving to small batches of 2 part epoxy primer for that.
I'm using POR15 in the bottoms of my doors (and other areas), where the steel has been cleaned and prepped but light surface rust remains down in the lower "sandwich" area. IMHO that's the kind of place to pour in the POR. But new steel needs something that really grabs - epoxy primer/sealer, etc. - and provides a proper foundation for primer/base layers that follow. Like Splangy said
BTW - In my experience - the thicker you put POR15 on - the easier it comes back off. And be careful welding around POR and breathing the smoke.
hmmm
it was treated with metal prep / ready prior to painting and the directions said it could be used on shiney metal. have you found that this doesnt work?
PREP & READYTM provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any metal surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel.
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- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks for all the input on the POR 15 guys.
What is done is done i guess...hopefully it will get a good adhesion.
What is done is done i guess...hopefully it will get a good adhesion.
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I can't get that sh1t to come off my skin, concrete floor, brushes, tools...
Had no idea it might not stick forever to ANYthing.
Had no idea it might not stick forever to ANYthing.
Here's an example. I just went down to the truck, found some gray POR15 where it dripped a few months back on the frame (surface rust, not clean but ...). Popped a few drips up and pulled them right off - nothing left on the metal. Black or any other color seems to have the same properties. I like POR15, just not for everything. It does seem to stick really well to anything you don't want it to.
johnkappus - does Paul Pilgrim offer any advice on finishing the tub? I thought he was also using some kind of zinc-coated steel, etc. on his tubs?
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If you used etch primer it's not a case of Por15 versus clean metal but the Por versus the etch primer. Etch primer eats itself in the metal and forms a bond better than anything. So if the Por sticks to the primer it won't be a problem. In paint you have to look at the system not the individual parts, these are chemicals that react to each other.
Yup, but you really don't ever want to paint directly over etch primer. I can't think of a single product that doesn't require another primer (epoxy, surfacer, etc...) over an etch primer before paint.
The only use of an etch primer the POR people talk about is one that goes over the POR-15, to help other top layers that follow. If the POR is older it always needs to have the surface roughed to get something to stick to it (kind of like cured epoxy primer). They don't seem to recommend any primers under the POR, just the cleaned and "metal-ready" prepped rusty steel. I think sticking to (and sealing) rust is what POR-15 is all about.
- Thread starter
- #38
Ok! Some more PROGRESS!!!
The new half-tub is now welded in place!
The top is on so that the rear doors can be finished. The bottoms of the doors were rusty and had to be cut out. We were waiting until this point when we could put the top back on to get final fitment of the rear doors before welding them up.
The new half-tub is now welded in place!
The top is on so that the rear doors can be finished. The bottoms of the doors were rusty and had to be cut out. We were waiting until this point when we could put the top back on to get final fitment of the rear doors before welding them up.
- Thread starter
- #39
more pics : )
More pics of the rear tub installed. The frame got descaled of all the rust and painted with POR 15
More pics of the rear tub installed. The frame got descaled of all the rust and painted with POR 15
- Thread starter
- #40
Things to do now:
I'd like to see if i can find a kit of all the body bolts in stainless. Anyone know of such a kit?
I need to order all new seals for the top / windshield / door weather stripping etc ...anyone have any recomendations on who to buy that kind of stuff from?
I'm excited that the half tub is now on. Now it's time to get this thing back toghether!
I'd like to see if i can find a kit of all the body bolts in stainless. Anyone know of such a kit?
I need to order all new seals for the top / windshield / door weather stripping etc ...anyone have any recomendations on who to buy that kind of stuff from?
I'm excited that the half tub is now on. Now it's time to get this thing back toghether!
