I noticed you used something to slow the rust inside the frame rails. What was it? I am getting ready to POR 15 my new frame and am not sure what the best method to slow inside rail rust is. Looks great. I hope mine goes this well and smooth.
1981 BJ60 Project
- Thread starter cmhar82
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- Thread starter
- #82
We used the internal frame coating from Eastwood:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html
We bought 3 bottles but only used one because it's a really thin liquid, so it spreads pretty far. I would say do the internal coating first becuase it's super messy, and it actually started to eat away paint on our suspension and leaf springs. It has a tube that you put inside the frame and it sprays all sides, but that also means it sprays out of all the holes. I'm not sure what type of chemical it is but be very careful not to let it spray on everything! Once it dried it seemed like it was on there for good, so a coating of POR 15 afterwards should be perfect.
how much of the POR 15 did you need to coat the frame 2x?
very satisfying, one thing I found was that if you tie a knot in a 1/4 peice of cordage and stuff it in the body bolt holes you can make quite a few improvised plumb bobs
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- #85
We bought the large can of POR 15 and it covered the frame once, plus the firewall, inside of the hood, and inside of the front fenders
Jealous...
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- #88
Haha, well it's a start at least, but you could use a few more parts!
They are there but stacked on shelves. Axles are at gear shop getting new gears n lockers. I'm still driving rust bucket for now. Need to start tearing it apart. That's when parts will truly pile up!
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- #90
Yeah, that's when you get to where we are, not a single clean surface in the whole garage! I keep complaining that we don't have enough space, but really we just have too many piles! I swear half the time put into this build is looking for the right size socket, and finding the bolts that we set down 4 months ago and now need to put parts back on.
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- #91
A little off topic, but Mik just finished the FJ40 wrap today and it looks super sweet! We've been debating wrapping the 60 because we're seeing a lot of chipping and delamination in our paint job, but I think we would go with a solid color similar to the paint instead of a pattern like this. It looks cool to print patterns, but we already worked so hard to change the color on the body, I don't want that work to go to waste!
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- #92
Lookin Good!
Most of the progress this week was on reconnecting the wiring and lines and such, but we did get the fenders on as well so it really looks like a car now! I'm getting anxious to drive it now, should only be a few weeks before we're all buttoned up and ready to drive!!
Most of the progress this week was on reconnecting the wiring and lines and such, but we did get the fenders on as well so it really looks like a car now! I'm getting anxious to drive it now, should only be a few weeks before we're all buttoned up and ready to drive!!
What type of paint did you use?
mint!
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- #95
We used two stage paint with the base and separate clear coat. I believe the brand is Omni, and we also used the self leveling primer from the same brand before putting down the base. The problem we're seeing with it is that it scratches off really easily, and if you hit it with anything a chip will flake off. Not that we're going around smacking the thing, but just putting the fenders back on resulted in a lot of chips coming off. I'm thinking we could try putting a couple more layers of clear coat on with extra hardener, but I'm not sure if that will help if it's not bonded properly with the primer. Anybody on here had a similar problem?
Omni is PPG's value brand. Used for squirting fleet vehicles and such. Cheaper, but not real durable. What type of paint was it? Urethane? Enamel? IIRC, Omni offers both.
It sounds like the finish did not fully cure. Did you use a hardener?
It sounds like the finish did not fully cure. Did you use a hardener?
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- #97
Aha, we thought it was a little higher quality than that, but this is the first time we've used two stage paint. I can't remember if it was urethane or enamel, but we did use reducer in the base coat and then hardener in the clear coat. Is there a way of fixing what's on there without repainting?
Unfortunately, if your base is weak, no amount of clear will hold it. Save your money - it's an old truck. A 10 foot paint job is fine.
FYI, urethane paint is the go-to these days. With proper hardener, it's as tough as a powder coat finish. I painted my rig this summer and had to use 60-grit to grind off a patch that orange-peeled. However, the isocynates in hardeners are a neurotoxin. That cheap respirator and bare skin can shorten your life. If you use a hardener, read the warnings and be careful.
FYI, urethane paint is the go-to these days. With proper hardener, it's as tough as a powder coat finish. I painted my rig this summer and had to use 60-grit to grind off a patch that orange-peeled. However, the isocynates in hardeners are a neurotoxin. That cheap respirator and bare skin can shorten your life. If you use a hardener, read the warnings and be careful.
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- #99
Thats kind what i was worried about! We'll just finish with the paint we have i guess and see what we can do next summer! We actually started using the heavy duty mask because the fumes were giving us headaches, but i didnt realize its a neurotoxin! I think if we change anything we'll just wrap it, stick to what we know best, ya know?
I think I technically misused that term, but this article should give some sense why it's worth paying attention to the warnings on the can.
Rig looks good! Nice to see a husband-and-wife team at it. So many times it's, "the wife is threatening to kick me out if I spend more time on my truck..."
