1980 Longbed Pickup Build - Epically Slow Style

[NorCalBorn]

*Realizes he knows this stuff but it's always worth having in a thread like this for others searching similar build stuff.*

 

[Sam Stewart]

That's good info. I was thinking of submitting this thread/truck for a ROTM some day and the more info the better. The stuff that seemed to have been visited by our little furry friends all was coming out of the mini. Which makes sense since it spent a fair amount of time sitting idle in the woods. The stuff out of the Runner all appears to be relatively clean other than the normal 25 years of dust and dirt. I will still take your advise and hose it down with something. Everything that's in there now is only held in by a couple of bolts so it's no trouble to take it back out.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Oh and we already welded the clutch pedal bracket because it was already cracked! No pics tho.

 

[Sam Stewart]

A/C boxes are in. Had to drill some new holes in the firewall for the A/C lines to go through. The fresh air vent did not actually line up. The A/C box is too low. So I will have to block off the inlet in the inner cowl so it doesn't leak. All in all not too bad. Going to work on swapping the engine and harness this weekend. Then the fun begins! Trying to get everything installed and wired so it will actually RUN. Woo!

 

[Sam Stewart]

Just was thinking about fuel delivery. I have an inline pump now but it's rated for a carb engine so it's like 6 psi. I'll have to pony up and get an inline EFI rated pump. I think the 22RE needs around 45 psi. I'll have to look it up. Hopefully won't set me back too much.

 

[Sam Stewart]

20R is out.

I'll be needing to get my Marlin Crawler clutch off there...

Anybody looking for a good running 20R??

So these motor mounts are good for like another 100k right?

So I'm going to go ahead and install all the wiring for the front end, condenser, A/C lines, P/S stuff, and then push this sled outside and pressure wash the engine bay really well. Then I'm going to throw a little coat of paint on there. I might actually have to wait to put the motor in until next week. I also need to test fit the dash with the dash harness and A/C installed from the Runner. Obviously the A/C takes up way more space now.

Not too long until...

 

[Sam Stewart]

Made some progress!

Got the P/S pump, lines, cooler and reservoir installed. Had to move the P/S reservoir over to make room for the air box. Also, since I used to cooler and reservoir from the mini I had to reuse the return hose from the mini. The one from the Runner was a different diameter. The one from the mini is too short since I had to move the res! I'll have to get another one...

Looks like its still going to be a tight fit.

Ran the front end harness and the dash harness along the inner fenders. Installed the underhood fuse block and the resister.

A/C lines are in. I still need to pull the lines back apart and replace all the orings.

Looks factory to me...

Although it looks factory, it took some serious "massaging" to get it to fit.

So the best way to describe how it's gone so far is that everything almost fits. Like there are holes for the A/C lines in the front and in the firewall but they don't line up. The condenser fits but it hits on the radiator support cross member on the bottom. The inner fenders are different shapes and the mounting holes for all the stuff for the mini are in different locations than the Runner. The bolts on the mini are all 12mm and all the ones on the Runner are 10mm so I've have to modify all the brackets to be able to bolt them in.

 

[jynx]

Sam, things are coming together nicely. I wish I had your drive. I have been piddling on a v6 rebuild for several months and I need to call a guy about a 22RE block to freshen up for my pickup, not to mention all the other misc. things sitting in que, and you have gutted one and are now starting on a second.

Truck is going to be sweet when you get it all back together. Keep the updates coming, as was mentioned earlier, you keep the rest of us motivated to get off our butts and do something, well me anyway.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Sam, things are coming together nicely. I wish I had your drive. I have been piddling on a v6 rebuild for several months and I need to call a guy about a 22RE block to freshen up for my pickup, not to mention all the other misc. things sitting in que, and you have gutted one and are now starting on a second.

Truck is going to be sweet when you get it all back together. Keep the updates coming, as was mentioned earlier, you keep the rest of us motivated to get off our butts and do something, well me anyway.

Thanks man. I'm glad I can motivate you. I will have to say that one of the reasons I've been working so hard and getting so much done is that my boss (who has been gracious enough to let me work in the shop) politely asked how long until I "cleaned up my mess." Which basically means he wants me to hurry up. How's that for motivation??

 

[jynx]

Well that is most likely my problem, my "boss" doesn't care to much about how long I leave my mess. That plus my 2 year old helper seem to make things take a little longer.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Well that is most likely my problem, my "boss" doesn't care to much about how long I leave my mess. That plus my 2 year old helper seem to make things take a little longer.

Oh yeah. I can imagine the helper might slow things down a bit. It's the opposite in my situation. When I get stuck there are a bunch of technicians around that I can bug to come give me a hand.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Hmm... Ran into a little snag when working on the ignition wiring last night. The mini has a 6 pin plug that has 5 wires and blank, the Runner has an 8 pin plug that has 7 wires and a blank. I have both EWDs but I'm going to have to figure out what the other 2 wires need to connect to. (I'm thinking one is for the igniter?) Most of the wires were the same color (IGN, ACC, etc) but the power input wire is different and there are two other wires that I'm not 100% where they go because the wire colors don't match the EWD! Ack!

 

[Sam Stewart]

[STRIKE]Strip the mini[/STRIKE]
Clean and paint engine bay

[STRIKE] Install dash harness (also runs to engine bay)[/STRIKE]
[STRIKE]Install A/C box (if it will fit)[/STRIKE]
[STRIKE]Install A/C lines and condenser[/STRIKE]
[STRIKE]Install P/S (lines, reservoir, cooler)[/STRIKE]
[STRIKE]Install front end harness[/STRIKE]
Install air box (LF), [STRIKE]igniter (L), injector resistor (R)[/STRIKE]
Install throttle cable (incuding pedal and bracket)
Install fuel lines
Double check everything!!
Install engine and connect everything

Crank it up!

Thought I'd update the list with what has been done so far.

Need to add wiring up the ignition, and integrating the wiring for the tail lights, brake lights, etc into the Runner harness.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Hey sweet my exhaust manifold is cracked! Luckily it is cracked in between the two chambers and not to the outside world. We're just going to weld it up as a temp fix and then someday (if I feel like shelling out $400) I'll order a header from LC for it... or just beat on it and forget all about the crack.

Also I went ahead and ordered some Bomb Proof mounts from Trail Gear. I was just going to slap it back together with the mounts from the Runner but it just makes more sense to go ahead and do it now. Then I won't ever have to change them again!

 

[KLF]

Also I went ahead and ordered some Bomb Proof mounts from Trail Gear.

Hope you have good dental insurance. Your engine vibrations are gonna rattle your teeth out now.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Hope you have good dental insurance. Your engine vibrations are gonna rattle your teeth out now.

I'm gonna look like this >>>

 

[jynx]

Hey sweet my exhaust manifold is cracked! Luckily it is cracked in between the two chambers and not to the outside world. We're just going to weld it up as a temp fix and then someday (if I feel like shelling out $400) I'll order a header from LC for it... or just beat on it and forget all about the crack.

Also I went ahead and ordered some Bomb Proof mounts from Trail Gear. I was just going to slap it back together with the mounts from the Runner but it just makes more sense to go ahead and do it now. Then I won't ever have to change them again!

Don't waste your $$ on the LC header. I had a buddy that has had 3 on the same tacoma, from his experience they are junk and their customer service sucks. His header(s) all cracked at about the same place and they never offered to replace it for him only gave him free shipping or some BS like that on a new one. He ended up ordering a later model 4cyl manifold from the dealer and said that is what he should have done after the first one cracked. All that aside, these motors really don't benefit from a header. The stock manifold into a 2" cat (if your running one) and then 2.5" muffler to tailpipe will serve you well. A decent used manifold can be had pretty cheap, matter of fact I probably have one in my stash.

On the motor mounts, KLF is right. Those poly bushings are going to transfer alot more vibration into the frame, but since it isn't a DD you will probably be ok. I love the original 4x4 innovations t-case mount, which TG has copied, but I would want to know what the equivalent rubber bushing size is so that I could swap the polys out for rubber to cut down on the drive-line vibs.

I am interested to hear your feedback on the poly motor mounts and see if you get alot of vibration transferred.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Don't waste your $$ on the LC header. I had a buddy that has had 3 on the same tacoma, from his experience they are junk and their customer service sucks. His header(s) all cracked at about the same place and they never offered to replace it for him only gave him free shipping or some BS like that on a new one. He ended up ordering a later model 4cyl manifold from the dealer and said that is what he should have done after the first one cracked. All that aside, these motors really don't benefit from a header. The stock manifold into a 2" cat (if your running one) and then 2.5" muffler to tailpipe will serve you well. A decent used manifold can be had pretty cheap, matter of fact I probably have one in my stash.

On the motor mounts, KLF is right. Those poly bushings are going to transfer alot more vibration into the frame, but since it isn't a DD you will probably be ok. I love the original 4x4 innovations t-case mount, which TG has copied, but I would want to know what the equivalent rubber bushing size is so that I could swap the polys out for rubber to cut down on the drive-line vibs.

I am interested to hear your feedback on the poly motor mounts and see if you get alot of vibration transferred.

Yeah I was kinda thinking that the LC header is a bit much money for what I'm trying to do on this rig anyway. We're just going to weld the cracked manifold for now and if I need to I'll just find a used one.

I know that the motor mounts are going to have a ton of vibration. They are basically solid mounts with a poly bushing in the middle, which dampens zero vibration. I don't drive the truck on the street really at all. It's just a trailer to the place, beat on it, and trailer it home kinda truck. So I'm not too worried about it. I am going to keep the mounts off of the Runner but they are 240,000 mounts and I just didn't want to put them in and go out and break one again on the first day. That's what really convinced me. It helps that I can buy a set of the TG mounts for half of what my cost is on a set from Toyota. So I will report back but if I come up missing any teeth, you'll know what happened.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Well, now I have a deadline. We're going to Durhamtown the last weekend of the month. So, at bare minimum, I have to have the truck running and driving by then. The majority of the work is done. Just have to wait on the motor mounts and then slap the motor in there. That's when the real fun begins. Trying to figure out why it doesn't start!

 

[The Jade Bean]

Whew... that's a lot of work!

-Daniel

Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.