Builds 1979 FJ40 Preservation-ish Project (1 Viewer)

[OPMACHINE]

@AntFarm that is exactly what I am seeing also.

I think powder coat may be the best option in the long run. For now, I am going to polish and see how it hold up. It would not be too much trouble to re-polish when the valve cover is off next time. I can always powder coat in the future.

 

[OPMACHINE]

@tstepp920 The photo evidence leads me to believe that the 1979 valve cover was not plated but was coated with some kind of clear coat that cracks and turns a honey* color with age and heat.

I may end up using a clear powder coat to preserve the brush/polish.

 

[tstepp920]

@tstepp920 The photo evidence leads me to believe that the 1979 valve cover was not plated but was coated with some kind of clear coat that cracks and turns a honey* color with age and heat.

I may end up using a clear powder coat to preserve the brush/polish.

I have a 2nd valve cover. I had not heard of “clear” Powdercoat. I powdercoated my original the same color as all the other “pewter” colored pieces.

 

[AntFarm]

How about this one from Land Cruiser Nation's photo library. https://www.fototime.com/{54D3E9A3-58AD-4E9A-A409-91045493AC95}/origpict/DSC05130.jpeg

The valve cover does not appear cadmium coated to me

That fototime picture has that crap we're talking about! You can even see the runs in it right above the oil cooler pipe, just behind the oil filler cap. That engine bay is so clean that it hasn't turned a darker color yet. Fantastic picture by the way. This one is going in my file as a great reference photo of the OEM configuration of everything in 1979-80. Thanks for sharing.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I don't think that pic is of a '79. At least not an early one.

There is no voltage regulator on the firewall. I think those went away in '81. There are some subtle differences but nine the less less it's an excellent photo of an original engine

 

[tstepp920]

The “Krumsick Cruiser” was purchased in February of 1980. So it was manufactured sometime in late 1979. According to the write up on Land Cruiser Nations site it only has 7500 miles and is original. If you sort through the examples photos of original FJ40s of various years can be found on Land Cruiser Nations site. Overton’s site is an amazing photographic reference

 

[tstepp920]

Here is a 1979 from FJ40 | Land Cruiser Nation | United States - https://www.lcnation.com/

https://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/detailfs?userid={2B59A31B-E687-42D4-B81F-7488E56A2498}&ndx=63&slideshow=0&AlbumId={570E3122-C39C-4D80-B463-DE54581BADF1}&GroupId={FD866683-0CA5-441C-B71E-EAEBAFB8A260}&screenheight=900

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@tstepp920
That '79 is not original. At least the one on their cover page. There's a lot of incorrect year items on it. I think that one had a later year harness, instrument cluster, console & seats added to it and it's been desmogged.

The 2nd link doesn't work for me.

@OPMACHINE
Sorry to clutter up your thread with all of this purist talk.
I think your plan to polish or powder coat are both great. Either will keep it looking nice for along time. If polishing, try Zephyr polish. It works wonders.

 

[tstepp920]

The blue one is an 82. The 79’ is referred to as a “survivor” I’m not sure why the link isn’t working.

 

[jblatz]

I don't think that pic is of a '79. At least not an early one.

There is no voltage regulator on the firewall. I think those went away in '81. There are some subtle differences but nine the less less it's an excellent photo of an original engine

Two different alternators were used for 79 models, either a 40 amp (27020-61013) or 55 amp (27020-61070, 27020-61071). The 40 amp uses a voltage regulator mounted on the firewall. The 55 amp uses an IC regulator mounted on the alternator.

 

[OPMACHINE]

Lets play dress up!

Hard to beat fresh powder coat and newly plated hardware.

I had a little trouble finding an intake gasket that I was happy with, sense the OEM gasket is long gone. I ended up using a solid silicone foam rubber gasket that I sourced from Mc-Master-Carr. I used a bunch of little magnets to hold the gasket in place while the silicone sealant dried.

Part number : 9141K139

I

 

[OPMACHINE]

Before:

After:

 

[OPMACHINE]

First picture of the engine bay:

Current Status:

 

[OPMACHINE]

I used a little FIPG to secure the new gasket to the valve cover to facilitate easy install and removal. Unfortunately oil is now slowly seeping from the gasket.

Note to self: Don't do that again.

 

[AntFarm]

I used a little FIPG to secure the new gasket to the valve cover to facilitate easy install and removal. Unfortunately oil is now slowly seeping from the gasket.

Note to self: Don't do that again.

I used nothing when putting a new valve cover gasket on my 79 this last summer. Like you, I just cleaned up everything really well. I am still getting weeping down the back of the head, coming from the aft end of the valve cover and gasket. I'm scratching my head with how to seal it now. I chose not to use FIPG because I wanted easy R/R for valve adjustments in the future. Do you think the FIPG made the seepage worse?. I'm currenty using an aftermarket valve cover gasket from SOR. I have a new OEM gasket on the bench to try next. I had another idea to try and coat the entire gasket with Sil-Glyde and see if that helps. That stuff has worked wonders for me in the past.

 

[OPMACHINE]

I am currently pointing my finder at the FIPG.

I used a new Toyota gasket and prepped the surfaces pretty well. Initially, I just snugged the nuts down on the valve cover, now they are pretty tight. The Toyota gasket that is used was different than the gasket that I pulled out of the valve cover originally. The new gasket was T shaped.

 

[OPMACHINE]

I pulled the valve cover again to remove the FIPG and reinstalled. No more leak!!

While I was under the hood, I replaced the temp sensor wire and boot.

 

[OPMACHINE]

Truck is running beautifully. Although I do have a exhaust manifold leak that needs to be addressed sooner rather than later.

I am having too much fun exploring with the family.

This time of year we are doing our annual prescribed burn so all of the land is super accessible without adding custom pinstripes

 

[OGBeno]

Windshield down.

pimp.

 

[OPMACHINE]

The Manifold Exhaust Leak:

I need to come up with a plan of attached, and decide how far down the rabbit hole I want/need to go.

I am starting with labeling all emission control stuff, and honesty I don't really want to put it back on. Half of me want to keep it original-ish and the other half wants a nice clean and simple engine bay that is easy to service. TBD.

I am going to ditch the Heat Riser. Install a block off plate and machine a set of shaft plugs. It looks like it has been a problem for awhile. Note the two bent nails wrapped around the heat riser shaft.

My first major concern is getting everything off without breaking anything. I have read to treat the exhaust manifold like glass, because of all of the thermal cycles apparently it is very brittle.

I have a lot of questions that I still need to answer!