1978 LPB Teardown and Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[Chamba]

Kevin,

What used to bolt on over your heater fan inlet louvres on the passenger side?

Cheers,

Josh

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Good eye - the PO had a hand made tin scoop there to increase the air flow into the heater. Heat must have been an issue, or the lack thereof. The truck was used a lot in the Yukon and it must have been quite cold. It had the original insulating hood liner and every crack and crevice was filled with silicone for draft proofing.

 

[Chamba]

Interesting. Seems like forcing more volume of air through a heater in extreme cold would make the air colder, but what do I know? Did it work? Are you going to fill in the holes left behind by the 'Yukon Snorkle'?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Yeah, I agree . Don't know if it worked, I just tore it off as soon as I brought her home. Filling the holes will be done during the bodywork stage. There are also a few holes in the back of the cab where he had a large two way radio screwed to the wall. Otherwize the cab is pretty unmolested - well until I got it anyway .

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Got the 2F off the chain hoist and onto a 4 wheel dolly for storage. Thats all I did today on the 45

 

[45Kevin]

Hey man, looks like you've taken over the whole garage. What did you do, buy a bunch of taxi vouchers for your wife so she doesn't have to get into a cold car in the winter?

I need to get down and look at that thing again. Are you home all weekend?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

And its her Rav4 too! Actually when I pivot the bed against the wall the Rav fits in.

Looks like I'll be home all day tomorrow but Monday I want to run up to work to do some welding.

 

[dr_claw]

I am still waiting for page 8! Looks good so far!

 

[Mikesta]

I really like that cradle! How does it hook up to the engine? Gravity or bolted?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Gravity - its pretty secure, doesn't wobble when you shake it. Its just 4 risers adjustable in width but not height. $39 at Princess Auto (our Harbor Freight). Its thinner wall tube than I would have made it from but for a single use tool it'll do fine.

 

[Mikesta]

Mine was free, but I like yours WAY more. Does it have rubber castors?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Nah - they are more plastic than rubber but they roll good

 

[Awl_TEQ]

So a bit of tinkering today...

Removed the 2F frame mounts - or at least three of four. The left rear mount is just a plate welded to the top of the frame rail. I'll grind the welds and remove that one later when the cab is off and out of the way.

Here are the mounts... Rather than grind them off I prefer to drill a small (less than 1/4") hole half way through the rivet, then a large (like 7/16") drill bit will take the head off leaving the 3/8" shank of the rivet flush with the surface. Then its hammer time. Some are quite tough and some are two/three hits. Done right there should be no damage to the bracket.
Left

Right

I can't find a pic of the right rear mount

 

[Mikesta]

So a bit of tinkering today...

Removed the 2F frame mounts - or at least three of four. The left rear mount is just a plate welded to the top of the frame rail. I'll grind the welds and remove that one later when the cab is off and out of the way.

Here are the mounts... Rather than grind them off I prefer to drill a small (less than 1/4") hole half way through the rivet, then a large (like 7/16") drill bit will take the head off leaving the 3/8" shank of the rivet flush with the surface. Then its hammer time. Some are quite tough and some are two/three hits. Done right there should be no damage to the bracket.
Left
View attachment 353379
Right
View attachment 353380
I can't find a pic of the right rear mount

Nice, are you keeping the Brackets? I'm looking for a set if not! Although, I don't know if they will work in a 40 as they are different frames?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Now I need to figure out where these battery brackets go. There aren't any holes so I'll have to drill and tack nuts inside the frame. I'll drop the drive train in first to help locate the brackets correctly. I also have a bunch of photo's to consult.


lvdreamer dropped by so we could loosen his bed. He sold it and needed to remove it for shipping. Very nice 1980.




45kevin dropped by earlier in the day but I forgot to get a picture of his rig.:whoops:

Almost a Calgary 45 run

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I referenced several pics I have of a friends 45 F to B conversion...




And used some other indicators to locate my battery brackets. My frame being an FJ has no holes or captured nuts so I marked with a center punch and drilled a small pilot hole. I am still weighing my options as to how to bolt them on. There is simply no way to get a nut onto a bolt inside the frame. I asked my restoration buddy how he did it and he uses some kind of industrial nutsert. My experience with nutserts says they would not be up to the task in the long run. I suppose I could tap the frame and not use nuts - but the frame is relatively thin and I'd only get a couple of threads. On the other hand there are 8 bolts per bracket

 

[Awl_TEQ]

A couple more

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Nutserts in steel not aluminum have held the torque of a diesel with big tires for some time now.

Properly set they are strong.

Rob

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I cleaned up my rusty 3B a bit and bolted the tranny and T-case back on in order to locate my motor mount brackets and tranny cross-member.



I have a complete cross-member but not the frame brackets for the motor mounts. I borrowed a set and made copies. I just have to weld the small angle to one and the plate to the other. Then I can try and locate them on my frame. Not really sure how to do that. My half baked plan is to attach the rubber mounts, slip the drive train into the frame and attach the brackets and cross member. Then I can move it up/ down or for/ aft as required until its in the correct location . I'll go with that plan and change it as needed.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Nutserts in steel not aluminum have held the torque of a diesel with big tires for some time now.

Properly set they are strong.

Rob

Thanks Rob,

I'm just using them for the battery brackets so I guess they'll be ok. The motor frame brackets will be bolted with fine thread and tack welded in the corners.

Kevin