1977 fj40 instrument cluster removal

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curtislow

Third fj40
Joined
Sep 2, 2010
Threads
100
Messages
381
Location
Western Massachusetts
i'm finally attempting to change my instrument cluster bulbs on my 1977 fj40. i took out the two phillips and pulled back the cluster and met resistance ,so before i cause a problem. is there something i should disconnect before i pull it out and tilt it back to gain access to change the bulbs.
 
it rolls out. iirc the bottom has tabs that keep it "tight" to the dash. the top should just pull away from the dash and bottom will follow suit. the wiring and speedo cable should have enough slack to allow the above to happen.
 
so i should'nt have to disconnect the speedo cable first. i should have enough room to disconnect it after tilting it out? i'm in the process of looking at previous posts and don't want to cause any problems.i'm probably gonna give it a try in the morning.
 
You may have to reach under and release the speedo cable before the cluster will come completely free. Be careful you don't break the cable clip when doing this. I'm also assuming here you have disconnected the battery before attempting this removal--a random movement may cause contact with the ammeter connection-causing a large spark and potentially a major purchase to replace the smoked ammeter/fuel/temp gauges.
 
Repeat ---- Disconnect your battery ! ----
 
Yeah, the speedo gives you a tad more leverage, but you still need to get he harness removed from the clips/metal banding on the bottom of the cluster. I always mark the bulbs to make it easier when you go to put it back together.
 
It's a '77 so he should have the barrel connector.

Rudi
 
Pulling this back from the dead to confirm. I can't get the tabs at the bottom into place. Is this because I need to remove the speedo cable, put the bottom tabs into place, re-attach speedo and then push back and install screws? Or do I reach up under the dash and remove speedo before I even get started?
 
On my 77 I had to set the bottom tabs before connecting the speedo cable. I did have enough room to get my hand behind it to connect it once the bottom was set.
 
Yes that is the worst part about the job - I've done this many times and sometimes the speedo cable will just snap right on, other times it will be 30 minutes and tons of F-bombs and often no luck even then getting that stupid speedo cable reconnected. Somehow in those cases a miracle occurs because it always gets back on. But you do have to be a partial contortionist as well to fit your hand up there through the cluster of wires underneath.
 
Thanks for the replies. For now, the tabs are exposed, I'll get it mounted properly here soon.
 
One more question about this. Any suggestions for a McGuyver fix to a missing rubber boot for the tabs? I've already scratched the paint (not happy with myself on that one). And I imagine without the rubber boot, it might rattle once I get the cluster in place. I'll probably just hit it with a piece of electrical tape.
 
One more question about this. Any suggestions for a McGuyver fix to a missing rubber boot for the tabs? I've already scratched the paint (not happy with myself on that one). And I imagine without the rubber boot, it might rattle once I get the cluster in place. I'll probably just hit it with a piece of electrical tape.
Large electrical heat shrink? Never tried it, but it should work well.
 
you guys with the clip-on speedo cable have it easy - the earlier twist-on style is a royal PITA even for my hands

I actually found it easier to remove the speedo cable at the tranny side

also, there are speedo cable extensions available that make the cable longer and easier to work with (from Marlin and Trailgear, for example)
 
Just about to begin this process. Thanks for the tip on the battery and the speedo cable. Mine is an '83 and I believe I have the clip on. I hope.

This is why I love MUD so much!!!
 
I did the bulbs last year. My hands are big. I had a very hard time getting to the speedo cable back there. It is a PITA.
 
Switched to a GPS speedo, more accurate, easier to install and not as period correct as some would want but still a wonderful replacement.
 
the first thing I do after taking a cluster out is put several layers of maskign tape on the paint to protect it. Once it is finally ready to be installed make sure the tape won't get caught and then pull it out after getting the cluster roughly in position.

also with the later style cluster i usually have to clamp on some small vice grips to hold the tab down and then i'll pull the cable off the cluster from inside the engine bay. Works pretty well if you can get the pliers up under there.
 
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