1977 FJ40 - "Hard Knocks" Build Thread

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Snagged a freshly powder coated h42 from my local craigslist. Score! I will eventually rebuild along with a t case to then swop into truck at some point.

So clean!

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Hmmmm....

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Pulling some inspiration from @cbmontgo

Thinking top thick stripe with thin strip paralleling it below, both khaki in color to match the top.

Anyone with some photo shop skills willing to a quick edit for me? I can send a good side shot of my truck.
 
Newbie here and have a question about the emissions. I am just starting to work on a 77 that is all stock. I have read that you can get rid of pretty much everything but the charcoal canister as it is the vent for the gas tank. So I guess my question is did you leave any of that in place or did you get rid of all of it? Thanks
 
Nfross80 said:
Newbie here and have a question about the emissions. I am just starting to work on a 77 that is all stock. I have read that you can get rid of pretty much everything but the charcoal canister as it is the vent for the gas tank. So I guess my question is did you leave any of that in place or did you get rid of all of it? Thanks
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I recommend taking a day or two and searching this site and reading/taking notes. It's all been covered extremely in depth.
What you are asking depends on if you need emission inspection or not.

You can take all the emissions stuff off, but the carb you use and other factors will contribute to whether or not it runs and idles correctly.
 
Yeah there is a lot more to your question than a simple answer. You need to familiarize your self with the entire system, what does what, and why.
 
Just read this entire thread. Great job, and of course, the best color ever applied to an FJ40.
 
Boys and girls after a week of having my sniper installed I am beyond impressed and would recommend this to anybody. Incredible upgrade. Blown away.

Big thanks to @ToyotaMatt for the new igniter and coil, @4Cruisers for the recurved fj60 distributor, and @fjc-man for the dented side plate.

I have a vacuum leak to kill (need to get headers shaved to match intake MF), but even with it the truck runs fantastic.


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Advrider639 said:
Boys and girls after a week of having my sniper installed I am beyond impressed and would recommend this to anybody. Incredible upgrade. Blown away.

Big thanks to @ToyotaMatt for the new igniter and coil, @4Cruisers for the recurved fj60 distributor, and @fjc-man for the dented side plate.

I have a vacuum leak to kill (need to get headers shaved to match intake MF), but even with it the truck runs fantastic.


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how did the NEW green 1 pin YAZAKI's do i tossed in ?

easy to crimp and follow suite ?

you were the first member i ever hooked up with them , i should have made mention , but heck there Ligit YAZAKI japan so you were in good hands from them alone , they should have meshed in electronic harmony ...... :cool:

that's a @GA Architect Level Engine bay to say the least ! :)

awesome to see such examples good show brother .........
 
Houston we have a problem...

Over the last few weeks I have noticed my voltage dropping slightly, as shown on my sniper screen. Then a few days ago went to start the truck, and it only had 11V or so and would not start. I hooked it up to a charger and let it be. Yesterday my battery charger reads "charged", and the battery only shows 12.8v. Somethings off, but it should be plenty to start the truck.

I turn the key to accs and nada. No screen, no fuel pump prime, no start. None of the accessories work either! Nothing. Truck acts as if there isn't even a battery hooked up. I pull the cluster out and I get 12v on the truck side of the ammeter, so I assume my fusable link is in good shape along with the ammeter. No fuses are blown on the block either, and they read 12v as they should.

All of this leads me to the ignition switch, but shouldn't the head lights turn on with out the ignition? Voltage regulator? Any ideas?



Ill dig deeper this weekend, but would be nice to have some hypothesis to try out.
 
Grounds are good? Like when you are jump-starting, you can have 13+ volts and not enough amperage to turn the starter. No corrosion on the positive side?

Battery isn't old or out of electrolyte?
 
Worked on my Tacoma today:
-F/R diff & t case oil
-greased u joints
-rotate tires
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But to keep it land cruiser here’s a under the hood photo of the 40. I am still tuning the sniper, it just gets better and better. Slight timing adjustment (currently around 11deg) and AFR tweak. It’s running great.

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I am going to replace the auto zone battery with an AGM (looking at the X2 from batteries plus - anyone have an opinion?)
 
Advrider639 said:
Worked on my Tacoma today:
-F/R diff & t case oil
-greased u joints
-rotate tires
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But to keep it land cruiser here’s a under the hood photo of the 40. I am still tuning the sniper, it just gets better and better. Slight timing adjustment (currently around 11deg) and AFR tweak. It’s running great.

View attachment 2790825

I am going to replace the auto zone battery with an AGM (looking at the X2 from batteries plus - anyone have an opinion?)
Click to expand...
Have you tried welding with an AGM power source?
 
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