1977 2F idle issue (1 Viewer)

[FJROSS]

So just a little back round. 10 years or more back, I had Jim C desmog my 77 and at that time we bypassed the vacuum advance by capping off the ported connection on both the dizzy and the carb and the engine ran fine. I recently performed a body off and had the engine rebuilt as well as sending the carb out for rebuilding. I also added a ss header with a Remflex gasket and installed block off plate with gasket on the bottom of the intake manifold. On the initial startup, we notice the vacuum cutoff solenoid was not functioning and replaced it with a single wire Nakamoto part # 21062 61010 I believe from Racer LLC. The plug didn't match so I had to solder the old connector onto the FCS.

At this point, as I read in other posts, the engine will not idle unless the choke is out and around 1000 to 1100 rpms. I removed the FCS and inspected the o-ring and added some grease to it before reinstalling and still no idle. I also retorqued the Remflex gasket since the engine heated up a bit and just tweaked them slightly. The instructions on the gasket was around 27ftlbs and maybe tighten a quarter turn on intake and exhaust bolts.

Correct me if I'm wrong, there is only two vacuum ports on the intake, one to the carb and the other to the brake booster.

1. Is it possible even if the new FCS is making a clicking noise that it is not seating and causing my issue. Is Nakomoto the only supplier of the single wire FCS from Racer LLC??
2. Should I isolate the vacuum line going to the brake booster and see if this could be the issue as far as a vacuum leak?
3. Dizzy was dropped in by engine builder at TDC and hasn't been removed since.
4. Am I missing the any other than the 2 vacuum ports of the intake manifold?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Dave

 

[charliemeyer007]

11000 RPM's there is your problem.

Did you check the valves and timing again? Big hemostat on brake booster hose - clamp on clamp off does it make any difference? I use a can of WD-40 with a pee tube to check for vacuum leaks - with cold engine idling, lightly and quickly spray along the intake gasket top and bottom then around all the levels in the carb gaskets - rpms kick up there is your leak.

You have fresh gas and a clean (dry) fuel filter?

So what is the flange thickness on the intalke and the header - mine was like 1/4 of an inch. Instead of half washers, I made custom stepped washers to apply equal torque to both intake and exhaust. I also used 2 Man-a-fre gasket that were softened in water. Torque was done in sequence by thirds. After fire up I re-torqued them at 100%. After several heat cycles I did them again. It has never leaked - same parts used on two different engines and mounted at least 3 times total.

 

[FJROSS]

11000 RPM's there is your problem.

LOL. 1100

 

[bhsdriller]

what's the timing set to?

 

[Pighead]

what's the timing set to?

My question too...
Try advancing the timing a bit and see if that will reduce the amount of choke needed.

 

[Skreddy]

Take a pic of the whole engine bay. You’ve got vacuum sources on the carb ports, as well as vacuum off the manifold for the choke breaker, pcv, brake booster. Some carb insulators have a vacuum port; does yours and it’s not capped?
Are you sure the click you hear is the fuel cut solenoid?
And as said, check the timing.