1976 2F Re-dropping Dizzy with Timing Mark On Flywheel Anomaly? (1 Viewer)

Ackcruisers

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I’ve been putting off this dizzy redropping procedure as the engine runs pretty well now. However, I have nothing recent to compare it to. I believe the engine is not putting out its full power when compared to how my F155 engines performed in my past (1969 & 1972). Also my 1988 fj62 2F had much more power than what I’m experiencing. Below is my situation along with a few questions. Note the strange timing marks (not 7 degree BB or TDC line) on flywheel shown below.

Background:
The distributor is a Non USA small cap type with vacuum advance/retard.

The dizzy is positioned so the advance knob is pushed up against block. This has caused the advancer diaphram to not function. @JohnnyC points this out in post #16

The wires on cap are currently routed so they work but it’s wrong. E.g. where #1 wire should be it goes to #6 and #6 wire goes to #1 as shown...

D16C0327-C566-4DAE-B4E9-9CB601EE8F45.jpeg


Timing:
When I hooked my timing light to cylinder #1 plug wire, and adjusted the advance/retard function on light, I was not able to see the BB or Line anywhere. What kept showing were these scratch marks ( that appear to be intentional) shown below with blue arrow. (Need to look closely as image is dark).
E2C83CE3-0396-4841-8048-AB6A9F666A6E.jpeg


Questions:

1. Before I redrop dizzy, can someone explain, given the information provided about the dizzy positioned wrong, why the timing light was not hitting near the BB and only near blue arrow scratch markings?

2. Since the blue arrow is well after TDC mark, should this not retard the timing so much the engine would not run?

3. Is it possible for flywheel to be installed wrong?

4. When I rotate the flywheel to compression stroke at TDC Cyl#1, the rotor is hitting the #1 cylinder wire on cap as it should. Because of this, shouldn’t the BB come into view in flywheel window with light?
 
Joined
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your dist looks to be 180 degrees out
remove, twist 180, reinstall.

at tdc on cyl 1, the rotor should be pointing just to the right of the #4 plug. closer to 4 than 3
 

Ackcruisers

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your dist looks to be 180 degrees out
remove, twist 180, reinstall.

at tdc on cyl 1, the rotor should be pointing just to the right of the #4 plug. closer to 4 than 3
Yes, thanks, It is 180 degrees off.
I’m following FSM manual to set mark to 7degree BB, remove dizzy, rotate and redrop. However, wanted To rule out concern that flywheel installed wrong before executing.
 
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The crank has an index ‘nub’ that fits into a shallow milled hole in the flywheel. This allows the bolts to fit one position and allow the flywheel to sit flush into that nub.

Unless someone Aground that indexing nub off to really mess you up, it would be difficult/ impossible to rotate the flywheel and still get the bolts screwed in
 

Ackcruisers

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The crank has an index ‘nub’ that fits into a shallow milled hole in the flywheel. This allows the bolts to fit one position and allow the flywheel to sit flush into that nub.

Unless someone Aground that indexing nub off to really mess you up, it would be difficult/ impossible to rotate the flywheel and still get the bolts screwed in
Thanks for the great explanation. I highly doubt someone would ground the indexing nub off but you never know. I just removed the dizzy and getting ready to reinstall with new advancer #19220-60072, knob, cap and clamp.
12648837-4885-438A-97F3-FD8665E4607B.jpeg
 

Ackcruisers

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After multiple attempts to drop it in, each time, when the gear meshes with the cam, the rotor moves counter clockwise vs. clockwise as outlined in the FSM. Could the cam gear be
installed wrong? You can see the gear in the below image.
438CD67C-1A60-421C-B16C-3FAAC80FC246.jpeg

My distributor gear is below.
AB10059D-BA98-46EA-8D6F-DC2A6E403BC9.jpeg

could that be the reason the dizzy was installed where it was?
 
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Rhode Island
the last inch or so before the dist is fully seated the gears will engage and spin the rotor counter clockwise a little bit. this is completely normal and the reason why you need to clock things correctly so when fully seated the rotor points to the right of cyl 4

when the motor runs, the rotor spins clockwise.
 

1911

chupacabra
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Parker County, Texas
Questions:

1. ... can someone explain, given the information provided about the dizzy positioned wrong, why the timing light was not hitting near the BB and only near blue arrow scratch markings?

What kind of timing light are you using? If it is a dial-back timing light, then you have to calibrate it to zero at TDC. There should be instructions on how to do that with the light.
 

Ackcruisers

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the last inch or so before the dist is fully seated the gears will engage and spin the rotor counter clockwise a little bit. this is completely normal and the reason why you need to clock things correctly so when fully seated the rotor points to the right of cyl 4

when the motor runs, the rotor spins clockwise.
The dizzy is in, oil pressure good and engine runs better than before. What’s strange Is I never saw any movement clockwise but it must have moved a little.
24F8759C-36E4-49AE-8AA8-306450714F8A.jpeg
 

Ackcruisers

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What kind of timing light are you using? If it is a dial-back timing light, then you have to calibrate it to zero at TDC. There should be instructions on how to do that with the light.
The timing light is an new ‘Innova 3568‘ with tach/advance. I zero it out then set advance by moving arrow up to 7 degrees. At 650 rpms, I should be seeing BB as I painted it white. Engine is running great but was hoping to see mark.
E1D2D4AF-83B2-4586-890F-889C9D40EAFC.jpeg
 

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