1st time engine oil change question - 1976 fj40 w/ 2f (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

CT40

CT40

Joined
Jul 14, 2021
Threads
5
Messages
28
Location
CT
Hi forum people,

Haven't been able to do anything on my truck since last fall, outside of small jaunts around town. Just getting to my 1st oil change since I picked up the money vacuum last summer (yes, I know, I waited too long). I'm following the instructions but am not 100% confident I know where the drain plug is. I've got the manuals but just being overly cautious. I've got a picture of the undercarriage (I'm lying under the driver door, facing forward) and am wondering if what I've circled is in fact the drain plug for the engine oil. I don't want to drain the wrong fluid.

Thanks!!

bottom.jpg
 
There's a hard rubber washer that goes between the bolt and the pan also. Get yourself a few from Mr T. They are still available. It's a good practice to replace those every so often in general. Unless you are collecting oil leaks. In that case, ignore my advice haha.
 
@OhioFJ - thanks! I have no idea about that cover ... this is my 1st (and likely last) BAT purchase, and every spot I look uncovers a dozen new things that are wrong. I'm learning a lot as I go through this process, so I guess that education is a benefit. I've never worked on trucks before so every little thing is an adventure, but you have to start somewhere.

@B y r o n - yes I've been watching it go down, and it's way low especially since I haven't driven it in months. There are a bunch of leaks, and I'll have to bring it to someone to look but $$ is tight right now. So, just putting down stuff to catch the drips and topping it off when needed.

@rainingagain I'll check that out and do that for the next oil change, which will def NOT be a year from now.

Thanks for the responses!
 
Out of curiosity, what oil do you plan to use? There are probably more discussions on what is the better than there are on what is the best music.

I am personally not a synthetic guy on older rigs, seems it makes leaks worse.
 
3_puppies said:
make sure your drain pan is large enough for all the oil, aprox 2 gallons worth
Click to expand...
Yep - it's 10 qt. There's definitely nowhere near a full load of oil but I was sure to get one big enough for future changes.

@desmocruiser I got mobil 1 10w-30. For me up in CT that should easily cover all the temps I'll be driving in, and with it in the garage the temp doesn't get too low in there to worry.

Looks like my socket set only goes up to 19mm so off to the hardware store I go...
 
CT40 said:
Yep - it's 10 qt. There's definitely nowhere near a full load of oil but I was sure to get one big enough for future changes.

@desmocruiser I got mobil 1 10w-30. For me up in CT that should easily cover all the temps I'll be driving in, and with it in the garage the temp doesn't get too low in there to worry.

Looks like my socket set only goes up to 19mm so off to the hardware store I go...
Click to expand...
Recently went from 10-40 castrol plain GTX to the 20w-50 Castrol Classic with high zinc, read a few are running 15-40 Rottela diesel. I also ran VR1 Valvoline 20-50 in a 2F rebuild. You can likely find an opinion to support every oil on the shelf.
 
When re-installing the drain plug DON'T over-tighten. Use a new gasket on the plug, doesn't have to be a Toyota gasket.

20 ft/lbs

I like to use a thin bead of RTV on the drain plug flange.

New oil filter too, yes?
 
CT40-- I live part of the year in south central CT and had 2 FJ40's there. 10-40 is fine for them. I come and go a lot so if you need some help let me know.
 
@desmocruiser Yea I've read just about every possible opinion on oil. Seems to be getting to the level of politics or religion! I've also read the zddp additive is important but not critical.

@Spike Strip for sure not to overtighten. Just until it stops without force and then a wee bit more. I'll pick up a gasket too.

@Paul_A that's where I am - about 20min up the shoreline from New Haven. I've heard of a few ppl in the area, and saw another one that looked like mine briefly in town last month.
 
ZDDP is absolutely critical. The M1 10w-30 oil you chose is a very good oil - for a modern engine! It's now SP rated which I think is down to 600ppm Zinc/Phos ... Really, that's very insufficient for a 2F.

(You're going to get 500 opinions on this)

A high Moly content oil is good too, but they're expensive and are usually only in full synthetic oils. The Rotella mentioned above is a good choice if you don't want to run a 20w50. The Rotella T6 5w-40 is also very good, and fairly cheap. I use a 20w50 but I'm in Los Angeles.
 
on all your fluids, find and loosen your fill plug before draining. This ensures you can fill it back up once you have drained it, and it makes the fluid flow out easier. No glug glug as you have air coming in from the top.
 
btw you want to drain all the fluids at this point......
so anything that looks like a drain plug should be coming off, but ya loosen the fill port first, good advice
 
Oil type and viscosity seems to be a heated topic these days.

This is a flat tappet engine that was designed for oil with zinc. If you don’t run a high zinc oil, you’ll need an additive. This is what I use in flat tappet engines.

1691264331295.jpeg


Without zinc, your cam lobes will flatten prematurely. I was a fleet mechanic and saw first hand what was happening once it was removed from most oil brands in the 90s before people got on board with zinc additives.

Btw it was removed because it was causing catalytic converters to run less efficiently and fail prematurely.
 
bj70bc said:
btw you want to drain all the fluids at this point......
so anything that looks like a drain plug should be coming off, but ya loosen the fill port first, good advice
Click to expand...

Thanks - I'll definitely work on the other fluids next. Since this is my 1st time going through this, I keep having to drive back to the store for things I don't have...like an oil filter wrench. Or, buying the wrong size of the tool and then having to go back yet again ... Hopefully next time I'll do even more research and actually get a list of the tools I still need to buy. :)

And thanks @South Texas 97 -- I did remove the fill plug first. It's not a screw plug - just a rubber stopper that I popped off. The oil that came out was exceedingly nasty... and not a lot of it, so I guess I was leaking way more than I thought.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
1976 2f oil pan to 1971 1F
Replies
8
Views
542
kpfoten
K
love2fly
2F Oil Loss
2 3 4
Replies
77
Views
5K
Rokketz
R
C
1973 FJ40 Gear Change
Replies
13
Views
600
JKIII FJ40
J
NathRay23
FJ40 2f (1976) Speedo gear keeps shredding to pieces!! help
Replies
5
Views
429
65swb45
65swb45

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom