1974 F.5 engine redemption

[flx]

So in the lot of information of the last posts, I think the thing I have to decide the quickest is where I source this head gasket.
There is no result on this forum for this brand "AJUSA" but I have found a few results on Japanese performance cars forums and it seems ok, including for high power modified engine. So I think I'm going to try this in default if there is no voice against it.

 

[Dizzy]

On the bottom side of the valves, a Teq logo will be cast into them. This head had an exhaust valve replaced.

The EB valve (right) was mushroomed on top (rocker arm), and so it was replaced by using a cut-off wheel. I wonder if you have original valves?

You can probably fabricate a block-off plate out of stainless steel of the appropriate thickness, and grade, just use the gasket as a template. I don't see much wrong with your exhaust manifold, just make sure that it is seated on the head correctly by, using a fresh gasket, restoring the threads on the studs with a die, and torque the nuts (with anti-sieze) and check their torque after some use.

 

[Dizzy]

Ok thanks I'll search that!

When I say things go fast, head is already out. Haven't seen it but my mech judgement is seats are ok but valves need replacement.
This is the number 4 with 0 PSI:
View attachment 2280658


Head bolts are fine so they are good to service again as everyone here said

Number 4 doesn't look that bad, to be 0 psi. I question the lash setting, or at least, I question the reading. How do the cylinder bores look, any damage on the block end of things?

 

[Pighead]

As to that head gasket, I'm curious what the actual differences are between the 1.5F and the 2F. I'm sure that the really smart guys will know.
I put a 1.5F head on a 2F block about 14 years ago, pretty sure I just used a 2F head gasket. I replaced that gasket about 8 years ago and I'm sure I used a 2F head gasket, seems to be working ok...

 

[flx]

I think the only difference between a 1.5F head gasket and a 2F one is the diameter of the cylinder holes (and maybe some other holes smaller to make room).

So, some progress have been made. The block, the cylinders and the head look good.

I think I have often read that in the US the 1.5F started the dome pistons. Clearly this is not the case in the European version.

And yes all valves are originals with a TEQ logo on the bottom. (Anyway the truck is in my family since 1976 and I have the complete historic so I was pretty sure this head never had been pulled off before.)

 

[flx]

Intake valves could be saved and have been re-bored.

And tested in place in the head

But exhaust valves are definitely gone and I will have to find new ones.

It is hard to display 3D in photos but clearly the surface lacks some material in various spot.

My mech theory on the state of the exhaust valves is that the leak I had to the exhaust created an air drafted (not sure it's a correct translation I do here !?) and burnt them.



On a different side the frame has been sanded and is quite good. This is the only rust bit that will need some work.

 

[flx]

To come back the exhaust valve to buy the easy answer is 13715-61030, same part-number for F and 2F.

But I found a local part dealer that have in stock 13715-61010 and sell it as a 2F only exhaust valve.
Not much resultats on Google for this part-number but a bit of searching on Toyota catalog and I found it here: Camshaft & valve for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40LV - Auto parts

It's indicated as a valve "FOR LOW-OCTANE" use in general market. there isn't a equivalent for intake valve.
I am not sure what will be the difference in this valve compared to the regular one. Only the quality of material?

And we all agree that even if it's only listed for 2F it has to be compatible with F engine also !?

Anyway I'll try to have the regular one from Toyota France but in these complicated time it's not always easy to source parts :/

 

[Spike Strip]

Updates ?

 

[SteveH]

Nice truck, and world-class photos you took. I agree that your exhaust valves are shot. Have you tried a US-based source for exhaust valves like www.sor.com?

 

[DPHFJ40]

Remflex intake/exhaust manifold gasket will seal just about anything. 1/4" thick compressed graphite/wire mesh. Fixed my intake manifold leak after trying stock and kevlar manifold gaskets. You can get Remflex from Amazon.

 

[flx]

Yes !
Not that much updates on the engine side of things. I'm basically waiting for the parts to arrive, finally I ordered everything from Toyota.
A first part on my order is already in delivery (but everything is slowwwwww currently and tomorrow is a holiday so I'm good to wait Monday) that should unlock a little the situation.

"a few parts" for head, gearbox and PTO.

I went for the regular valves but as you can only 1 is in my current order, the 5 others are on their way from all over Europe...
For valve stem seals 90913-02017 was indicated available on our local equivalent of Toyotapartsdeal / Amayama but but that only meant I'm the first one to try to order them. So I have discovered that the later 90913-02033 should work and a better design event if the part number is not superseeded by Toyota. They are not cheap tho... 9.35€ a piece.

On the other parts we are waiting and should receive ASAP there is the inter-manifold gasket that will allow to remount them together and re-surface them. (But I will also look and discuss your suggestion of Remflex but I can't find a seller closer than the US.)
There are also gaskets and seals for PTO and gearbox we found leaking. Actually I was thinking for a long time that the engine main seal was leaking and the reason the clutch slipped from time to time but it was the wrong culprit.

So as of now the new clutch has been installed to the block (without the head) and as soon as the gaskets and seals are here we will reinstall the gearbox. And then the engine-gearbox couple on the frame (the new engine mounts are also in the delayed parts so we will change them later). Head will be reinstalled later also.
This will allow them to dry fit the body on the frame and make their life easier to work on some parts of the body. This will also clear a lot of space from my mech shop because at this time my truck is scattered in parts all over his shop (more than half the inside space available) and with the lockdown close to an end here a lot of other business is coming back and he obviously needs to clear some space.


Yes because the real news is that the body is finally back from sandblasting.
And it is quite good, I feared worst. The only big thing were planned (read sill and rain gutter to change) and otherwise only small things that can be patched.

Windshield frame has nothing, hardtop side have only a small hole, etc.

Frame is back on its wheels.

I can continue with detailed pictures of my body parts but at this point maybe I should create a dedicated topic to my cruiser with the complete story

 

[Pighead]

I did not have good luck with the Remflex manifolds gasket. Probably due to my ham-fisted, knuckle-dragging low-tech Neanderthal habits. The included directions clearly tell you not to torque the manifold nuts to more than, like, 17ft/lbs or some such. But I still had an exhaust leak (I run headers). So I over-torqued. It leaked more.
I prefer to use TWO Fel-Pro gaskets with Copper-coat brushed on all mating surfaces.
When my 1.5 F head was in the machine shop, I had all the manifold stud holes drilled and tapped for the larger 2F studs. Then got a set of the 2F studs washers and nuts, which tolerate higher torque, which I like. Fixed my exhaust leaks, not to mention vacuum leaks stemming from the manifold.

 

[flx]

Yeah from my search here it seems the Remflex can help in a lot of situation but the best way to go if you can is still resurfacing the 2 manifolds together and an OEM gasket. As I already have an OEM manifold gasket under hand I think the quicker will be to do this resurfacing at this point. But if it's not enough I bookmarked the Remflex website.

 

[Steamer]

I bought a Remflex for my 74 F.5 but did not use it. The reason being the same gasket covers 1968 to 1987. Therefore, the stud/bolt holes are sized for the larger ones for latter years. The 74 has the smaller studs so the holes in the Remflex are large, and the gasket drops down a bit unless you remember to center them up while tightening. The OEM gaskets have the correct hole sizes to match the different size studs/bolts. I went with the OEM and all is good.

 

[flx]

Thanks for that feedback!

 

[DPHFJ40]

I did not have good luck with the Remflex manifolds gasket. Probably due to my ham-fisted, knuckle-dragging low-tech Neanderthal habits. The included directions clearly tell you not to torque the manifold nuts to more than, like, 17ft/lbs or some such. But I still had an exhaust leak (I run headers). So I over-torqued. It leaked more.
I prefer to use TWO Fel-Pro gaskets with Copper-coat brushed on all mating surfaces.
When my 1.5 F head was in the machine shop, I had all the manifold stud holes drilled and tapped for the larger 2F studs. Then got a set of the 2F studs washers and nuts, which tolerate higher torque, which I like. Fixed my exhaust leaks, not to mention vacuum leaks stemming from the manifold.

Yeah, I have a Downey exhaust header, so I machined stepped washers to make up for the difference in intake/exhaust flange thickness. If both manifold faces don't clamp down close to the same time, the graphite gaskets can be hit or miss.