Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (2 Viewers)

[120mm]

Then its probably similar to the clutch pedal height and freeplay adjustment at the mc. There needs to be slight freeplay between the master and pedal rod.

I have it pretty well adjusted.

The issue is that as I apply brakes in succession, they get stiffer and brake height gets higher.

Something in the LRR cylinder is acting like a check valve, imo. This theory is supported by how difficult it is to bleed that cylinder. I have to screw the bleed valve out excessively to get fluid and then it is a geyser instead of a nice even flow.

I ordered a new cylinder from Kurt and a new LFR as well because why not. Once I install them I think we'll figure out what's really going on.

 

[trainbufftony]

I've seen on more than one occasion soft brake lines which swell up internally and act like a check valve. Fluid gets forced to the brake to stop the car but the return force is much less, and it can't push the fluid back through the hose so it draws a bit more fluid from the master and pushes harder on that shoe next time, until you end up with irregular brake wear.
Best of luck.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The description is non standard and the picture doesn't match the part. Doesn't help me at all

I don't understand understand why suppliers can't pull their heads from their collective ass3s and adhere to a standard description.

What isn't standard about our wheel cylinder descriptions? We've sold thousands of Japanese made Land Cruiser wheel cylinders over the last 30 years, can't say I've ever heard a customer say they don't match 'industry standards'? I suppose they just send over an email or use the contact-us form and ask a question if they aren't certain, it's worked well for us.

Fwiw, the manufacturers we use, AISIN, Toyota, FIC and JBS, all sell them by a 5x5 part number alone. The Toyota EPC does add descriptions using Front/Upper or Rear/Lower, we call it Top/Front & Bottom/Back so I guess that could confuse some? Top=Upper and Lower=Bottom if anyone is wondering

Fwiw, our pictures are 100% the part you are getting, i.e. we don't use 'standard' photos. If any our inaccurate, please let us know and we will update ASAP.

So for a 1969 using original parts, order 2 of each front:

And on the rear, one each for each position

 

[120mm]

What isn't standard about our wheel cylinder descriptions? We've sold thousands of Japanese made Land Cruiser wheel cylinders over the last 30 years, can't say I've ever heard a customer say they don't match 'industry standards'? I suppose they just send over an email or use the contact-us form and ask a question if they aren't certain, it's worked well for us.

Fwiw, the manufacturers we use, AISIN, Toyota, FIC and JBS, all sell them by a 5x5 part number alone. The Toyota EPC does add descriptions using Front/Upper or Rear/Lower, we call it Top/Front & Bottom/Back so I guess that could confuse some? Top=Upper and Lower=Bottom if anyone is wondering

Fwiw, our pictures are 100% the part you are getting, i.e. we don't use 'standard' photos. If any our inaccurate, please let us know and we will update ASAP.

Wheel Cylinder - Rear Bottom - 1/1961 - 7/1970 4x Series LH (BWCR60050LB)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

Wheel Cylinder - Rear Top (Front) - 1/1961 - 7/1970 4x Series LH (BWCR60070LU)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

The first picture for the Rear top front threw me off. I have no idea what this part is; it appears to not have an adjustment wheel from the picture.

The descriptions also threw me off. One is a "rear bottom" and the other is a "rear top front." I think it would be a good idea to use the same descriptor for both parts. If one is rear top front, the other should be rear bottom rear (edited to say "back" instead of rear, since the antonym of "front" is "back."

Also, another site uses a diagram to show where each cylinder goes. I think this would be a great help for the consumer.

Once you open both up in separate windows I "think" it's obvious they are what I need.

I ordered them Friday night.

I'm really happy you care enough to comment on the thread.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Yeah, that does need some cleanup. I'll work with our e-commerce manager Bryce to update those descriptions and see if we can add both a master chart and some diagrams to the new site, we absolutely want to streamline any process we can!

 

[120mm]

I've seen on more than one occasion soft brake lines which swell up internally and act like a check valve. Fluid gets forced to the brake to stop the car but the return force is much less, and it can't push the fluid back through the hose so it draws a bit more fluid from the master and pushes harder on that shoe next time, until you end up with irregular brake wear.
Best of luck.

I think I can get all new soft lines for around $100 or so, and will just go ahead and do that since I'm going to have to bleed the brakes anyway.

Bleeding brakes on a 40 is NOT my favorite activity.

 

[120mm]

So, I know my brake system has been converted to 10mm on the hard lines; how do I tell what year soft lines I need to order? There is a difference between 1969 and 1970, but I am not certain which I have, even though this is a 3/69 manufactured 40.

 

[120mm]

3 lines versus 4.

Pry a big giveaway.

 

[120mm]

Finished the passenger side seat. Am wondering if anyone has an extra back plate for the middle seat? If not, I could fab one.

 

[120mm]

While waiting for brake parts which will arrive later today, I decided to start working on the troop seats. Stripped off the old fabric and padding and also went after the black paint. Looks like I need some bumper pads, straps and hooks as well as to do some metal shaping and welding repairs.

 

[120mm]

Got these beauties in the mail today. Installed and bled the brakes, but am holding off on new soft lines because my calibrated mechanic hand told me I might ruin a hard line or two taking them off without copious penetrating oil, some heat and time. In the meantime I will drive it to see if the new cylinders didn't just fix the issue.

Sorry for the blurry pic but the old cylinders were basically unused FIC units that looked every day of the 20 years this rig sat.

Even though I honed the bores, my finger felt a hinky bore surface in the one that was sticky. Also replaced the other cylinder because it was in the wrong position and was annoying to adjust.

 

[120mm]

You ever fix something that took a big load off your shoulders?

Words cannot describe how good having a functioning water temp gauge is to me. Took way too long to troubleshoot, but it works and reads out exactly where my FJ55 does.

Brand new hood latch and the rubber part fell off.

Going to try some redneck solution to avoid buying another new latch

 

[120mm]

Sometimes it's the little things.

Spent the day digging about 5 gallons of New Mexico soil out of the frame.

Also found a discarded bracket

 

[120mm]

Does gravel make body filler structural?

No kidding. The rotten sill repair uses gravel to extend the body filler.

 

[120mm]

Cleaned the body filler/rock mixture out, exposing the rust.

Looks like a decent candidate for a 2" square tubing repair.

Unfortunately the tub spread in the process. Will have to ratchet strap it to bring it back

 

[120mm]

Decided to put off the sill repair until after vacation.

In the meantime I have been thinking more about what I will use this rig for. After reading a bunch and thinking a bit, have decided to forgo using my inherited hi lift jack and go with a bottle jack instead.

I priced some vintage replacements and choked on the price a bit. Maybe sometime in the future, but for now, the local junkyard yielded something that works.

 

[120mm]

This is why you go with original bench and three on the tree. I see many adventures in our future.

 

[120mm]

Got all the emergency equipment in its place under the driver's seat.

Stop the bleed kit will attach behind the center seat.

Found this little bit of hilarity under the lid. This PO just couldn't restrain himself with the flat black paint.

Started repairing the jump seats. Pounded everything more or less back into shape and welded up the cracks and holes that don't belong.

 

[120mm]

Trying to figure out rear troop seat mounting.

PO mounted long seats with a homemade rollbar.

Cut off the stand offs that attached to the tub sides and trying to figure where normal attachment would be. Guessing there were straps that encircled the uprights bolted to the 4 capture nuts.

Looks like PO had moved the bumpers to still hit the fender wells, which really screwed up the strength of the seat.

Of course, none of the plethora of holes in the fenders match up to the seat anymore. Someone welded over the holes it should go in.

 

[120mm]

I've been holding off working on this rig because vacation is coming up and I don't want to order parts that might sit on my front door while I'm gone.

But little steps help my soul.