1969 40 - what is a reasonable price?

Hello new to the 40 world and this forum and hoping to tap into the wisdom here. I have an opportunity to get this 40. It is bone stock and in great condition. It has been fairly nicely restored (I don't think frame off though). Paint is apparently just okay. 125K miles on F engine. Don't know if there are any bondo issues and diamond plating may or may not cover rust - just don't know.

Wondering what you think is a reasonable price range for this? Nothing at this point needs to be done with it (I'm sure I just jinxed myself on that). Other than flip the grille bezel to the correct orientation...

Photos of under the hood look good, owner indicated it has some very minor leaking - couple drops in a month.

Sorry if this isn't the correct forum to post this in. Mods please move if not.

Thanks!

 

[TheDeadlyLlama]

how much are they asking?

 

[ginmtb]

$10K-$13K range...

 

[bugsnbikes]

Be very wary of non-orig paint jobs for sale. 10-13k should have some "amenities" like disc brake cconversion- power steering conversion- a/c etc. Full stock with 3spd tranny and f engine with original paint should be 7-9k with NO Or very minor rust visible.

If you haven't driven an F engine with 3spd I would highly suggest you drive one before taking the plunge. Its a lot cheaper to buy one that's already converted to a vortec than have to do pay someone to do a few months after you have realized an F is not for you

Get up underneath and take some pics of rear cross member supports& all areas where the diamond plate resides on the outside.........as well as rear will area( common rust areas).

Where is this one? Bay area.?

 

[ginmtb]

Thanks for the advice - this one is in Sacramento so fortunately I will have an opportunity to test drive it and get under it to inspect. It does look really nice but I know looks can be deceiving. Seems legit, just trying to make an informed decision. I'll bring a magnet too!

I'm also looking at another here in the Bay Area that has the Chevy v8 modification, 5-speed transmission, fuel injection, power steering, Warn winch, extra gas tank, etc. Paint is horrible and sadly the previous owner cut holes in the dash for a tachometer and now has speakers installed in the openings. But it does drive nicely and cruises in 5th gear - it looks very different than the white one above, but is very close in price.

I've only been looking now for about three weeks, trying not to make a full on emotional decision. This is a great place to learn about these vehicles.

 

[1phrogguy]

There are plenty of guys in that area with a seasoned eye who might be willing to take a look at the cruiser with you, hopefully someone local to that area will chime in. It would probably be well worth it to drop a few bucks to have someone who really knows these rigs there with you as these toys are not cheap to maintain.

Personally, I would wait it out for a later year, disc brake and 4 speed with a 2F or V8 conversion (done right). Depends on what you want to do with it too. Great advice from Bugs.

 

[Uncle Grumpy]

Stick with the older ( - 75) FJ40. It's getting harder and harder to keep my 78 smogged. Engine conversions on later models are required to meet the emissions requirements of the engine year.

 

[TheDeadlyLlama]

Stick with the older ( - 75) FJ40. It's getting harder and harder to keep my 78 smogged. Engine conversions on later models are required to meet the emissions requirements of the engine year.

or move out of the commie state of California.

 

[super40]

No way I'd pay that kinda money for something with diamond plating on it. Every vehicle I've with diamond plate had rust behind it. That rig at best is a 8-9g range.

 

[ginmtb]

And to the guy's defense, he did indicate he didn't know what was behind there as the previous owner did that and he said of the vehicles he has seen that has diamond plating often it is for that reason.

Some work has been done on the engine but no conversions. New exhaust and shocks.

Thanks for all the feedback - still want to drive it and get a super close look at it.

 

[bugsnbikes]

$13k should get you a vortec swapped one or at worst tbi injected.......at this day in age if you want a v-8......I'd avoid the carbed versions.

Spend a ton of time reading thru the 40 section before diving in as you said with an "emotional" Buy and figure out what you want to do with it.......wheel/camp/mall crawl/long trips/weekend beach cruise/etc. Biiiiig difference in end result and how to get there without spending years undoing an incorrect purchase.

Imho- I really love the patina of an original faded paint job......lots of em in California and they have some surface rust but nothing that can't be left for another 40 years. If you can find those originals with orig paint and unchpped bodies/fenderwells etc......you can see what you are dealing with vs painted over rust buckets that will turn on you.

 

[ginmtb]

Yeah I'm a bit impulsive so I'm proud of the fact I haven't bought anything within these first three weeks of my search... lol.

I'm not a huge car guy, so this is all a learning experience for me. I'm trying to stretch the boundaries some and get out of my comfort zone. I saw one of these parked at work one day and thought to myself, I need to have one of those.

So I have been doing a fair amount of research these forums are invaluable. My wants are to drive something unique, occasional commuter, some minor offroading (no rock crawling), weekend stuff. Camping for sure would be cool but again, probably just stuff accessible by dirt roads. I have to be honest with myself and will likely not do heavy four wheeling.

My initial thoughts were definitely to get one that was not all cherry - but I saw that on eBay and thought, "wow, this is a beauty, wouldn't have to do a thing to it!" I do really like the look of it, even the diamond plate lol. But I'm totally open to one that doesn't have perfect paint - I like the idea of original paint so you can see if there are any rust issues. Makes perfect sense to me.

The search continues (like I said earlier in the thread, I do want to drive this one and get an up close and personal look at it and classic rust areas). Will... remain... patient...

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[ginmtb]

Another '69

Found another '69. Primed (and would need to be re-primed for painting) but no diamond plate and no reported bondo. Third owner, only surface rust. Has original F engine/tranny 68K miles reportedly. engine numbers match the frame numbers. Brakes will need to be redone as the slave cylinders have leaked and the carburetion needs to be redone since it has been sitting so long.

Inside is solid, seats will need to be replaced they're some crazy looking buckets (but in the interim would work). Rear jumpers have to be re-done, rats got to them apparently.

Bell housing and transmission switch for Chevy 350 available too.

$6,500 for it all. Thoughts?

 

[romegadave]

Go over typical problem areas with a magnet. Doing the brake work yourself? Seems reasonable tho. GL, Dave

 

[Brewsterfire]

I would check it out personally on site as you can tell opinions vary greatly especially when evaluating the four letter word "Rust".

You will see rust even on the expensive ones but base your decision on what you see.

This FJ sounds pretty good but you are the one that will have to live with the decision and eyes wide open is best in IMHO.

Enjoy the journey it's a blast.

Cheers
Bruce


Sent from my iPad

 

[ginmtb]

Yeah definitely need to check it out - I'm not super comfortable buying something without seeing it (or at least someone I trust seeing it).

I think he'd take $5,500 for it without the other stuff. Pretty motivated to sell. Anyone on here south of Bakersfield willing to take a look at this for me? Right near the Grapevine...

As for doing the brakes myself, again not a big car guy so this project would be a nice stretch goal for me.