47coeman
Love those 45's
Mike
Yes indeed it is coming together for the final time, do you have wheels to make it a roller.
Yes indeed it is coming together for the final time, do you have wheels to make it a roller.
1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project
- Thread starter miker
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #602
Yes, I have a set of older MTRs that I can bolt on. Those are the wheels/tires pictured in many of my posts throughout the build. Wanted to get to that point this past weekend but I think I spend as much time looking for parts I knew I had vs. actually bolting stuff together. The good news is that everytime I put something on, the pile of parts gets smaller.
47coeman
Love those 45's
Mike
Question for ya, where is the tub vintag located and is there a tag on the fender also. TNX
Question for ya, where is the tub vintag located and is there a tag on the fender also. TNX
- Thread starter
- #604
Tub/cab tag located high on firewall towards passenger side of center.
There was no VIN tag on the passenger fender. I'm actually not sure if mine came with the original fenders and cab but I suspect it did not. Mine was titled via the VIN on the frame.
- Thread starter
- #605
VIN Tag
47coeman
Love those 45's
Mike
TNX for coming through with a great example for me, as usual.
TNX for coming through with a great example for me, as usual.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Pass fender vin tag started in 67!
- Thread starter
- #608
cool, thanks whitey!
- Thread starter
- #609
It's a roller!
When do I get a ride?
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
35snmud
SILVER Star
Making some good progress now Mike, Nice.
Looks great Mike, keep the inspiration coming!
- Thread starter
- #614
Doing some of the tedious stuff like finishing up the chassis brake lines. Ran into a few issues with some used part I had sourced awhile back. One was with the double 90 I mounted on the passenger side frame. Turned out this one was cracked and would have surely leaked. Could not find another in the same configuration and I had already drilled holes and bent up some brake lines to match. So, I got a later model one from an FJ60 from SOR. This one had one of the 90s turned 90 degrees and facing toward the engine, so I carefully cut it off, cleaned everything up and then rewelded it on the braket with the TIG. Then painted it with some rattle can silver. Turned out ok and kept me from having to remake some brake lines.
The other item that I got from SOR was the brake line "U" clips to secure one end of each of the of the brake hoses to the frame bracket. I had a number of these aftermarket clips but only the Toyota clips fit one of the hoses I bought. This was a Toyota application hose.
Next I needed a brake line longer than 60" but 60" was a long as I could source locally. I didn't want to buy a roll of brake line because I don't have the straightening roller tools plus I wanted to finish up with the type of line I started with so, I was able to find locally some steel M10 x 1.0 brake line couplers. (most are brass) I made a tab and welded this to the steel coupler. Then mounted the coupler to the frame. This long hard line runs from the double 90 to the rear brake hose bracket.
I also had some difficulty finding hoses long enough but eventually found some part numbers by tediously going through an online catalog. Ordered these hoses from rockauto as I could not find these hoses locally either.
Basically, the brake hoses and hard lines are completed on the chassis. I will need to make up the lines from the master to the double 90 mounted on the frame once I have the lower cab painted and mounted back on the frame. A proportioning valve will be in the rear brake circuit somewhere as well.
The other item that I got from SOR was the brake line "U" clips to secure one end of each of the of the brake hoses to the frame bracket. I had a number of these aftermarket clips but only the Toyota clips fit one of the hoses I bought. This was a Toyota application hose.
Next I needed a brake line longer than 60" but 60" was a long as I could source locally. I didn't want to buy a roll of brake line because I don't have the straightening roller tools plus I wanted to finish up with the type of line I started with so, I was able to find locally some steel M10 x 1.0 brake line couplers. (most are brass) I made a tab and welded this to the steel coupler. Then mounted the coupler to the frame. This long hard line runs from the double 90 to the rear brake hose bracket.
I also had some difficulty finding hoses long enough but eventually found some part numbers by tediously going through an online catalog. Ordered these hoses from rockauto as I could not find these hoses locally either.
Basically, the brake hoses and hard lines are completed on the chassis. I will need to make up the lines from the master to the double 90 mounted on the frame once I have the lower cab painted and mounted back on the frame. A proportioning valve will be in the rear brake circuit somewhere as well.
- Thread starter
- #615
This could be useful to others who have an FJ45 and are looking for body mounts. I've been using these 2050 mounts for awhile for engine mounts. They are stout enough and have been durable. Well, low and behold, they also look like they will be nearly perfect for the rear cab body mounts. The mounts have a protrusion that is a bit smaller than the frame hole, but I think its close enough to work fine. I'll also have a rubber bushing under the frame mount - not shown.
- Thread starter
- #618
Looking very nice. I like the idea of the engine mounts for the body. Can you tell me what the height of one is and does it fit the frame mount hole well ?
Thanks
Keep building
A little loose in the frame hole. The protrusion on the engine mount is 1-1/4" diameter. The hole in the frame is slightly larger. I measure 1-5/16". Uncompressed height is 1-5/16"
- Thread starter
- #619
Every time I see something like this I'm always thinking how nice it would be to have access to a lathe, turn exact steel adapter rings for the mounts, etc.
Nice Work!
