1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project (1 Viewer)

[miker]

going to mount the heater control panel using those two holes.
drilled holes for the key switch, headlight switch, and the wiper switch. Mounted these switches.
went ahead and drilled a 2" hole for a tach just to the right of the gauge cluster.

now, need to fill a few more holes in the firewall and redo the gas pedal.

after that, I think I'm ready to do some final prep, little more sealer, and then paint the tub.

have a lot going on over the next few months so may not get to the paint before fall. Its too darn hot right now to paint anyway. Predicting 100+ for the next 5 or 6 days...

 

[rockcod]

Mike,

Here are a few pics of the light mounted on the bottom of the dash, the last one the light does not have the cover or bulb on it.

 

[rockcod]

Comparison 1963 dash light, 1965 heater control

 

[Gusb]

going to mount the heater control panel using those two holes.
drilled holes for the key switch, headlight switch, and the wiper switch. Mounted these switches.
went ahead and drilled a 2" hole for a tach just to the right of the gauge cluster.

now, need to fill a few more holes in the firewall and redo the gas pedal.

after that, I think I'm ready to do some final prep, little more sealer, and then paint the tub.

have a lot going on over the next few months so may not get to the paint before fall. Its too darn hot right now to paint anyway. Predicting 100+ for the next 5 or 6 days...

Where are you going to paint, in the garage?

 

[miker]

Comparison 1963 dash light, 1965 heater control

thanks tony for showing those pics of the 63 and 65. Makes sense to me now. I'm going with the 65 layout since I have the heater.

 

[miker]

Where are you going to paint, in the garage?

that's the plan right now. Plan to paint just a few parts at a time. Not the best solution, but I'm planning to go with an off-white so that should not create too much of an issue with color match if I paint in multiple sessions. I know that metallics and pearls can be hard to match when you paint pieces and not the whole truck at once and assembled.

 

[miker]

Haven't had a lot of time to work on the 45 but the time I've had I've been putting together the Toybox and will start work on the Orion next. Needed some hardware and other misc parts, so it was a good place to spend a little bit of time as most of the assembly was waiting for parts to show up.

Media blasted the reduction box. Pulled the AA 700r4 to Toyota gear driven TC adapter out of the box then started assembly and noticed that the bearing reliefs machined into the AA adapter were larger in circumfrence than needed.

Made some calls to AA. Eventually had an answer. Was told the snap-ring sizes can vary and AA machined the adapter to accomodate various sizes. Since this only holds the bearing fore and aft, is not a problem.

Also discovered that the relief machined into the Orion for the Toybox shift rail was not deep enough. Was about .250" shallower than the extension on the toybox adapter. More phone calls to AA and Marlin. I ordered the Orion from AA with the Toybox machining. Was told by AA that they do the machining but they use a jig they borrow from Marlin. In the end, the conclusion was that my case was not cut far enough along the top so I manually ground out the remaining to accomodate the shift rail.

Snap-ring to adapter gap.

 

[miker]

Toybox to Orion clearance issue.

 

[miker]

Media blasted the Mini Truck gear reduction housing then assembled the Toybox and AA adapter using a Marlin 23 spline "total spline" input gear assembly. Of cource, the AA adapter is for a 23 spline Toyota gear driven TC as well. This is a 2.28:1 gear ratio Toybox.

 

[miker]

Machined out a Land Cruiser output housing to accept a double seal. Squirted on some rattle can black. Seals not yet installed.

 

[miker]

Found out that Marlin does not have the Toybox available at this time but might be available again in the future. Don't know how many were built. This is #026 and purchased it used. Was told it was used for a mockup but never actually run in a vehicle. No reason to believe otherwise. It does look like with the Orion gear sets, the lower mounting bolt location which you install through the PTO cover will be a tight fit. The Orion generally uses a cap head bolt for this, but the Toybox is designed to use a stud in this location. That means I will need to use a nut on the stud. Its a 12mm nut so I think I may have to use a 12 point nut. I found some ARP nuts that will probably work. Picture shows a standard JIS nut (17mm head) but it just hits the Orion idler gear with the 'points' of the nut.

 

[miker]

Next step is to assemble the Orion. The Orion is number #529 and its a 3:1 low range. This combo gives this setup the low range ratios of:
2.28:1
3:00:1
6.84:1

Orion case now ground to fit the Toybox.

Using a new 4-speed fine spline output shaft and good used front output shaft and coupler collar. Using a new hi/lo shift fork. Have a good used hi/lo shift collar. Waiting for one more part to arrive and then will start assembly.

Dont' know yet what drive flange/yoke pattern I'll need to use on the front TC output to clear the 700r4 oil pan. would like to use the large pattern (w/11mm bolts) but I don't think this will work. Will have to wait for final yoke assembly once I have everything back into the frame.

 

[miker]

Oh here's the dash mockup. Mentioned but did not post this when previously mentioned. Have the tach in the dash next to the gauge cluster, Headlight and Wiper switch to right and ignition to left. Will mount the heater controls back onto the original panel that mounts under dash.

 

[47coeman]

You are coming along nicely, I am on the mend no lifting or driving till October first, hope to see you soon after that. Skip

 

[miker]

Hey Skip, good to hear you are almost back in action.

 

[kellyo]

As usual Mike, you are the man.

 

[miker]

How to get the boot over the shifter?

Anyone have a trick or advice for getting the boot over the shifter? This is the stock boot and Toyota pickup TC shifter. Seems like the boot will probably tear if I try to stretch it over the shifter...

 

[miker]

More...

 

[KY Longhunter]

Lube always works well.

 

[miker]

Lube always works well.

I'm sure that would help but it still seems like a big stretch to get the small hole over the much larger shift lever.

Unless there is a way to remove the lever, I guess its the only way to do it.