1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project (2 Viewers)

[love2fly]

Striping

You have one nice 45 with a lot of promise. I was reading on the stripping part and I have striped with chemical and sanders and just cant phantom doing that again after having the tub and all part media blasted. If you have a person locally that can do this for you that is the way to go. I had a few rust issue were welding was needed and the blasting eliminated the rust or has made it so much easier to complete the repairs. I look forward to seeing your rig completed, just as I am sure you are . Have fun thanks for sharing.

 

[miker]

Wow, that looks nice. I don't see any need for repairs on that.

Agreed that if you plan to take one to bare steel and if you have a means to have it media blasted then that is the way to go.

 

[47coeman]

Starting with a great foundation it pays off in the long run, keeps those ol rust beetles at bay and your project looking good as well as easy to work on, nice job

 

[miker]

love2fly,
question for you, why did you choose to use POR-15 after having it media blasted?

also, what prep steps did you use to the blasted metal before applying it?

thanks

 

[miker]

Trans cover work. Cut my custom cover in two peices. used some 1/8" strap to make a piece that will be usd to bolt the 2 halves together. This should allow me to remove one, the other or both with the cage is installed. Hole in rear section is for the Toybox shifter. Marked it before I removed the mock up drivetrain. Hopefully my marks were good.

 

[miker]

I now realize I need to build a different shifter(s) for the transfercase. The one I built before is not going to come out at the right place in the cover.

I pickup up a Lokar shifter for the trans. Its a surface mount style so I have some options on where I can mount it.

I'll have to reinstall the mockup drivetrain in order to figure out the t-case shifters and also exactly where to mount the lokar shifter, but the height of the lokar shifter looks to be about perfect.

 

[47coeman]

Mike
Thoughtful planing and great work, after our get together the other day I looked at mine and decided you had made the right decisions for making more room for the throttle pedal and foot room in general. You continue to do excellent work with your build up, anxious to come by again in the near future. Skip

 

[35snmud]

I like those lokar shifters. I put a tranny mount one in my 73. I'm not sure about the surface mount style. There is quite a bit of flex on my 73, the shifter lever moves all over the place. My be an issue with the surface mount?? Looking good Mike, thanks for the update.

Sent from my SkyRaider Thunderbolt using IH8MUD

 

[miker]

I'm not sure about the surface mount style. There is quite a bit of flex on my 73, the shifter lever moves all over the place. My be an issue with the surface mount??

Hey Kenny, Are you saying your drivetrain is flexing in relation to the body? Or that the thin floor surface will flex from pressure applied to it from the shifter during shifts?

For any potential floor flex, I plan to add a support to the cover to eliminate any flex there.

I'm hoping the transmission will not flex enough in relation to the cab floor in order to cause any shift issues or worse, spontanious cruiser shifting If it does then I guess I will have to go to a cable style shifter. This one I picked up is the simplest to mount as well as being one of the least expensive lokar shifters although they are still not cheap.

 

[35snmud]

yeah Mike, the tranny flexes in relation to the body. Mine uses quite a bit of the cut out in the tranny hump when I'm twisting up the frame. Might be something to watch out for. Your frame may be a little stiffer than the one on my 73.

Sent from my SkyRaider Thunderbolt using IH8MUD

 

[miker]

yeah Mike, the tranny flexes in relation to the body. Mine uses quite a bit of the cut out in the tranny hump when I'm twisting up the frame. Might be something to watch out for. Your frame may be a little stiffer than the one on my 73.

thanks for the clarification. i guess i'll find out how much it moves once i'm driving it.

 

[love2fly]

Blasting

Sorry Miker for the delay. Well I used the POR 15 as it was readily avaible from my body shop parts provider. There are other's out there such as EastWood and such that have good product also. As stated, I would rather weld than patch with putty's and such, but the products are getting so much better (if you follow directions) that in small areas were it is hard to duplicate with welding it is worth the time.
The small areas of rust when blasted were 99.9% eliminated from rust but now the metal is weak and even more susceptible to rust coming back, , so before fixing repairs, the area's were lightly sanded, not smooth as you want some grab on the surface to hold onto your repairs, clean with a non film/residue type cleaner, I use 95% good old alcohol, then with an acid brush, brush on a small thin coat of POR paste (It really is the same stuff as the POR paint, just in a tube) let dry until barely tacky (few hours) then apply your filler. NO cheap fillers, use good quality. The POR is supposed to be dry but I elected to have it tacky as it drys very hard and smooth so I wanted the filler to attach as best as possible. This is NOT in the directions, this is something I did and so far not one problem of cracking, or lifting from the filler (three weeks now). Try not to use in ares of high heat such a bonnet (hood), the possibility's of the product and fillers shrinking and cracking in time may happen. That's about it.
Reapirs, area's, white

 

[kellyo]

Mike, you work never ceases to amaze me. Love watching this build.

 

[miker]

Mike
Thoughtful planing and great work, after our get together the other day I looked at mine and decided you had made the right decisions for making more room for the throttle pedal and foot room in general. You continue to do excellent work with your build up, anxious to come by again in the near future. Skip

Thanks Skip. Anytime you want to take another look, let me know and we can work out a day.

 

[miker]

Mike, you work never ceases to amaze me. Love watching this build.

thanks Kelly, I'm hoping that soon I can use the glass pattern you sent me.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

When ur done with that template i could use one. Back glass correct?

 

[miker]

When ur done with that template i could use one. Back glass correct?

yes sir, that is correct

 

[miker]

Put some sealer on the cab floor seams. Awhile back I had tried some sealer from 3M called Fast and Firm but after several months it started to crack. I decided to try some stuff from Eastwood that's advertised to not shrink or harden and can be painted in 30 minutes. I would say all those statements are false except the 'harden'. It definitely IS shrinking as it dries, and its taking hours to dry to a consistency that I would feel is dry enough as a stable base for painting. Its been 80+ degrees everyday here so its not a temperature thing causing the slow dry times. I should have just tried a small area to start. Now that I have it down, I'm going to leave it. Hopefully its dry enough for a top coat of epoxy sealer tomorrow.

 

[miker]

Finshed up all the shifters and linkages for the transfercase and transmission. These are not quite the final version but close. All shifter and linkages now have been painted and boxed up waiting for final assembly. Forgot to take final pics or pics after paint.

 

[miker]

A couple more.