Builds 1964 FJ40 Diesel build, 5 speed, vw TDI, 35's....Lets not call it a restoration. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter HandForged
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Where would the put the middle then? HmmmmI want to come!!!
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #103
Possibly! The decision to go full mechanical is going to put me behind in the search for horsepower but I am trading reliability for it. I'll still be able to get to that 220-250 mark "I think". I think it should be a great setup in the end it will just take more time to get all the parts than I like. Pump is about 4 weeks out for instance. I'm not going to let it slow me down, I'll just table the engine mods and move on with the work. It will also mean I can't get it going before the snow gets deep here so with that in mind, I have oodles of time now. Up next is the dana 60 swap!!!! Ordered all of the parts yesterday.We should meet in the middle and drag race when you're ready.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #105
I'm in Monarch, mt.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #106
why does everything take so dang long to ship! Seems like I'm a geographical oddity. 2 weeks from everywhere. Except the UK of course, I'm 7 weeks from there. HA!
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
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- #108
well, that is my mechanical pump that is being built so that's lead time and build time.
Just food for thought, among many other benefits the idle torque control will be far superior with the original engine management system. Something that was very valuable for myself (especially when 4wheeling) when I used the AHU engine years back. It was also nice to be able to use the OBD2 for timing adjustments and diagnostics. Additionally there is a square wave generated from the ECU that would operate a standard tachometer.
If you really wanted to push the fuel system get an 11mm pump/loom/ECU from a wrecked automatic 1999-2003 ALH car. Or you can build a hybrid from the two.
I personally no longer have any interest in a fully mechanical injection pump after messing with both systems over the years.
If you really wanted to push the fuel system get an 11mm pump/loom/ECU from a wrecked automatic 1999-2003 ALH car. Or you can build a hybrid from the two.
I personally no longer have any interest in a fully mechanical injection pump after messing with both systems over the years.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #110
For me it was an easy decision to go full mechanical. I'm adept at tuning mechanical diesels over electronic controlled. I guess you have to go where your bread is buttered. I'm old school I will admit but after all the investigation I have done I don't think there is going to be any issue. The pump I am having built as we speak is actually a 12mm pump, 20mm shaft with a 12mm cam plate. Governor springs, fuel pin and idle controls all adjustable. The ultimate reason for this decision is reliability. I understand that guys that are adept at reading scan tools and already possess chip burners and readers are doing great things. I'm not sure that is for me. Having the ability to make a custom chip or program for every modification would be fun but ultimately over kill. I would rather put my time into other areas of the truck.
Given also that mice here on my mountain love to chew wires. I already have one diesel truck down with wiring issues now because of them.
Add to that the ability to repair the truck in the field or on a road trip should anything happen is HUGE for me. Unless it's a total failure of the pump (highly unlikely) everything else is mechanical and available at nearly every parts house in the country. Easily repaired in the field.
I liked the mechanical idea as well but struggled with it. Especially after taking one pump apart and seeing what was involved!
I'm on the other side of it, I've done engine calibration fro OEM's for my entire career. I can more than understand the learning curve when jumping into that realm!
Safe to say you are going with a waste-gated turbocharger setup? Have you made any decisions there?
You could keep the KKK03/KKK04 or GT15 that the engine shipped with and add a larger Holset on top of it.
If you are interested in talking to someone who has gone down this path and is (semi) local Matt Whitbread is a good guy to talk to. Here's his website: Whitbread Performance Innovations, LLC
-Mike
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #112
I had not considered compounds yet. I was looking at something like a HE221 or the similar size for larger single. .216 or .220 injectors are a given depending on the available boost. The 12mm pump will support more HP than I will be able to make on the stock bottom end. The next step for me (engine wise) is going to be a custom camshaft. That will give me a better idea of where I will end up.
If you want BIG power I have a guy that will do you a real deal cylinder head. He's out here in SoCal though. He has put together heads for these that have made the kind of numbers you originally were throwing around. You don't want to start sizing a camshaft up for a big power setup until you get your target pressure ratios figured out, or you may end up with the wrong centerline.
For a 4x4 I would try to keep as much of the transient response as possible. If you are a tinkerer like I am, you can get a compound setup configured for less work than you may imagine.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #114
So while I was getting some things done around the farm I went and pulled the hydroboost master cylinder setup, pump, lines and steering box that I'll be swapping in. I forgot that it was off of a 6.2 diesel and had a remote fluid reservoir. COOL...that will make things easier.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #115
THE TWO HAVE BEEN MATED!
Got a nice box of stuff from Marlin Crawler today. New Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate bolts and whatnot. Can't afford the doubler kit or the gear drive adapter just yet but this is a start. The mechanical injector pump set me back a few dollars....HA! Pictures after I had to run into town to get all the correct bolts. That's the problem with mixing and matching stuff. I didn't have starter bolts or bellhousing bolts to get it all together. Luckily NAPA had everything in grade 8 Metric. Damn Japanese and germans….
Look at the clearance on the starter to the back of the turbo. That's gobs of room for me to get the downpipe out and away. It might get a little "creative" in dealing with the motor mount and frame rail but It should be fine. Also picked up all the materials to get the motor mounts fabbed up. I am using the side mounting bosses on the opposing sides of the engine. Also metric thread in case you were wondering. I am going to "Try" and use the factory VW flat motor mounts from my donor passat if I can. First I'll get a flat side plate made up for each side, set the drivetrain the chassis and level everything up where I want it. Then measure a few times and start cutting steel. I have plenty of 1/2 and 3/8 plate here to make just whatever is needed. The pancake VW mounts are VERY simple little things and I believe they are both in good shape. So we should have it at least located in the frame tomorrow is the weather holds. Then I'll move the whole thing into the shop now that all the dirty greasy stuff is done. Clean all that crud off and start the crossmember.
Got a nice box of stuff from Marlin Crawler today. New Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate bolts and whatnot. Can't afford the doubler kit or the gear drive adapter just yet but this is a start. The mechanical injector pump set me back a few dollars....HA! Pictures after I had to run into town to get all the correct bolts. That's the problem with mixing and matching stuff. I didn't have starter bolts or bellhousing bolts to get it all together. Luckily NAPA had everything in grade 8 Metric. Damn Japanese and germans….
Look at the clearance on the starter to the back of the turbo. That's gobs of room for me to get the downpipe out and away. It might get a little "creative" in dealing with the motor mount and frame rail but It should be fine. Also picked up all the materials to get the motor mounts fabbed up. I am using the side mounting bosses on the opposing sides of the engine. Also metric thread in case you were wondering. I am going to "Try" and use the factory VW flat motor mounts from my donor passat if I can. First I'll get a flat side plate made up for each side, set the drivetrain the chassis and level everything up where I want it. Then measure a few times and start cutting steel. I have plenty of 1/2 and 3/8 plate here to make just whatever is needed. The pancake VW mounts are VERY simple little things and I believe they are both in good shape. So we should have it at least located in the frame tomorrow is the weather holds. Then I'll move the whole thing into the shop now that all the dirty greasy stuff is done. Clean all that crud off and start the crossmember.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Damn, that's a helluva setup.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #117
Yeah, I was noticing that when I got it all together. I may rethink my doubler idea and just do the gear drive case swap and put the lower gears in it. That setup will be about 3" ( I think) shorter and do away with the chain drive transfer case.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
How much longer is it than the Toyota setup from fan to output flange?
Snow melt off yet?
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #119
That isn't going to give a realistic view of the length. The little 1.9 is a LOT shorter than the F154 F engine is roughly 29" and the 1.9 is about 18" front to back. Giving GOBS of room under the hood in front of the engine for intercooler, electric fans and whatnot. NOW THEN....from the bellhousing back the R150 5 speed is 10" longer than the 3 speed that came out. Now mind you, I'll suck up a few of those inches pushing the engine forward a little in the engine bay so when it's all said and done it should only be 7-8" longer in the chassis. Which will be fine in the long run as the rear axle is going to move back a bit.... story on that later.
HandForged
Built Not Bought!
- Thread starter
- #120
Started fabricating motor mounts today. As I usually do with steel anything I over build. These are 3/8 plate as I didn't really want to use 1/4" and I didn't have anything in the middle. Overbuilt, yes... strong? yes. For the time being all I am interested in is the backing plates made up with the outriggers tacked on for the stock VW pancake mounts. From there I can set it all in the frame, locate the opposing mounts and weld it up. There are various things in the way down there, it's a little close to the water pump outlet but the hose should pass behind the mount. The perspective is a little off in the pic there but it looks like plenty of room. The passenger side mount will be close to the oil drain for the turbo so it was clearance to make sure I could get a socket on it.
