Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (4 Viewers)

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Passenger door complete and in. Pretty good fit. New metal on inside lower and a few holes and gashes patched on outside, dents pounded out (mostly). Bug catcher window in too (with a missing knob replacement from Sir John @pardion :clap:).
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Small bit of tech on window regulators. Early regulator roller wheels (pre-mid ‘63) have more offset (left one in pic) then later regulators (right one is a ‘65). The ‘65 worked in the ‘63 door but not sure of the other way around. The driver’s side regulator wheel was trash, I guess the reason toyota went with shorter offsets to reduce bending loads on the plastic wheel shaft (?).
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This is the repair I made, works so that’s that. Had to grind the replacent wheel down to fit the channel though.
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Also put a PCV system in, being a ‘64 vintage motor I think it should have had one. We‘ll see what difference it makes. I used the center vacuum port on the offenhauser manifold. Sorry John @pardion I couldn’t resist keeping with the fork truck orange on the filler cap, but it does have a keeper chain installed!
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What’s left

1: put kits in SD40 carbs and install them - if engine performance is there good to go otherwise punt and go to single carb (replace intake manifold)
2: rebuild passenger seat and install
3: rebuild bed and install
4: install something for rear windows

unknown: motor life
 
Very, I hope!
 
So I’m chasing this motor run issue again. I just can’t throw on different carbs with expectation things will improve unless I can figure out what’s up. So, with that ingrained hardheadedness I’ve been looking at the vacuum advance, since I have the city racer’s @Racer65 non-USA vacuum advanced distributor on this 1F. Right now I have it connected to the switched vacuum ports on the carter carbs. Looking at city racer‘s website, it says to connect to the vacuum port at the base of the carb, which would be unswitched, right? That means in that case that when the timing is set at the ball with the vacuum removed and plugged (per the FSM), and then reconnected for running, at idle the timing is advanced some amount as there is vacuum at idle. With the way I’ve been running the vacuum connection there is no vacuum at idle because the circuit is switched off, hence no advance at idle. Correct? Maybe that’s why I’m having a hard time getting past the idle circuit into the high speed circuit under load. Time for the next test.
 
So here’s where I’m at. Connected the vacuum advanced dizzy to a manifold port, so full time vacuum. Vacuum at idle:
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I‘m at 3400 ft ASL so that puts me at around 20inHg, right? With dizzy vacuum disconnected and plugged, I have the timing on the ball, 7-8 on my meter. Connecting the dizzy to vacuum, I get 24-25 on my meter. Both at 600-800 rpms (using the tach in the rig). When I give it throttle up to 2000rpm timing climbs to 42 or so. Is that total timing some techs refer to? If that is total, I know the vette guys talk about total timing up to and not exceeding 52. Don’t know how relative those V8 numbers are to this f135. I know on my 283 I set the timing between 13-16 at unvacuumed idle.

Test drive was better, some power under load but still getting bog with a full throttle, and an occasional pifft sound out the carbs (?), less to none of that when it’s fully warmed up. And some whoosh sound at throttle up which I thought was a vacuum leak indicator, but I can’t find any such thing to save my life. No blow by out the valve cover breather anymore with the PCV installed, but still out the exhaust at throttle up (no smoke on startup). Oil on the spark plug threads on cylinders 1, 3 and 4 (3 was a lot, actually leaking past the threads).

So far drum brakes have been easier to deal with than this motor, 😆.
 
This is fun. :lol:

And Toyota decided the small 1/4” spotwelds weren’t sufficient so went with 3/8” “spotwelds.” All 10,000 of them. Might be done by end of summer 😂.
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PS - don’t let your rigs rust to rot.
 
I have you seen the sliding window gaskets City Racer is about to release? He has pictures in the Unobatainium thread.
 
Yeah, those windows are great. Wonder if he or someone has the glass patterns for cutting, or maybe these are going to be a complete kit?
 
Very slow week. Actually no week, recovering from a campylobacter infection from a raw milk incident- lesson learned, know the source and their process completely before trusting. A few pounds lighter and a wasted week later, I put one of the PCV catch cans in the rig to help with the blowby hammering the AFR. Nice clean product from Elite Engineering. I now also have both carbs connected to vacuum advance.
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Enough fuel I guess. Out of ideas now.
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F engine never designed for two carbs!!!! It’s cool, but will never work without a built lower end, high compression, proper head work etc,,,,go single sd40 and be happy!!
 
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Tedious, lots of rot being replaced.
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Life is a four letter word sometimes. Spent a bit of last week with my BIL (youngest) who’s on his final stretch from lung cancer. Faith & Hope, Amen.

Skins, sill, hat channel rebuilds (bottom 2-3”), and front 2” of floor panel replacement in. Sequencing everything is fatiguing. Once I rebuild and install the cross member support I’ll be 1/5th of the way through this bed. This alone took one roll of welding wire. Egad.
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Very slow week. Actually no week, recovering from a campylobacter infection from a raw milk incident- lesson learned, know the source and their process completely before trusting. A few pounds lighter and a wasted week later, I put one of the PCV catch cans in the rig to help with the blowby hammering the AFR. Nice clean product from Elite Engineering. I now also have both carbs connected to vacuum advance.View attachment 2633531
Recently saw this truck, a '64, with similar twin carbs run and idle smoothly.
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