Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (2 Viewers)

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The fuel pump holes in the block go all the way into the oil pan cavity. Sticking brake cleaner spray can straw into hole to clean out, and not knowing this, resulted in watching straw shoot into oil pan cavity. Draining oil didn’t produce straw. Removing nearly two dozen bolts and pulling pan did.
 
As stated before, sometimes it’s the small things. Got the horses back in the saddle. Will spin it once more via the starter to verify principal oil leaks are no more, and/or move them to ignore status and continue onward and upward.
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Now I’m wondering what to do with my fairly “new” engine stand. Not looking for suggestions, lol.
 
Engine stand idea, I converted one of mine to a tubing bender stand. At the same time converted the bender to air over hydraulic. You can spin the bender to horizontal or vertical to accommodate different lengths of bends.
 
Erik you must be bending a lot of tubes! Good idea, I can see how that would be a handy tool.

Another step. Looks like T/M is pointed in the correct direction.
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Throwing stuff at the cruiser, mostly non-tech. But the replacement starter (from cruiser corps) has no room for any of my tools to tighten the top nut (threaded stud so no allen head bolt option). Doinky design from China. And I have some pretty low profile 3/8” sockets, but not low enough (17mm nut). Amazon order gets here Monday with Sunex low profile socket. Hopefully that works with extensions. I despise doinky designs.

Well on edit, got the Sunex low profile socket, from an audio store in Manhattan beach ca! Amazon cracks me up. But the socket is the cats meow, works especially in the future when the body’s on and the starter craps out, no way to get any other tool in there to remove the nut.
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Best news for the day, spun the motor via starter and no oil leaks. Was really concerned with the timing gear plate, et al. We’ll see when it finally gets running and gets warmed up how many leaks pop up, lol.
 
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And I got good flow out of the oil pressure regulator so I think the dizzy is engaged with the oil pump.
 
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Are there any Toyota ignition switch options for this rig, with keys. What I have is an aftermarket USA switch, but no keys. I put one of those in my 40 but never checked to see if anyone still makes/has the Toyota ones. Don’t care about matching keys to door locks. @RAGINGMATT ?
 
Bling mode.
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Almost home.
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Home. How you folks do this with the body on is inconceivable.

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I have pulled one of those 3 Speeds in and out for 20 plus years and never thought about those guide pins that you have. Where did you get those or did you make them?
 
Made them. Just cut the heads off the bolts and cut slots for a screw driver. Idea is from someone here on Mud, can’t remember who though as I’ve read hundreds of threads and forgotten most of what I’ve read.
 
Are those springs for the linkage (bottom pic) anything special and/or still available?
(@nuclearlemon pic) @pardion
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Thanks John @pardion. Do you by chance have a Century Spring Corp. option for those springs that hold the front flexible bracket lines? I have the brackets (they were on the old lines) but need the springs.
 
middlecalf said:
Are there any Toyota ignition switch options for this rig, with keys. What I have is an aftermarket USA switch, but no keys. I put one of those in my 40 but never checked to see if anyone still makes/has the Toyota ones. Don’t care about matching keys to door locks. @RAGINGMATT ?
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I will look into a new OEM ignition Switch w/ keys for u , :)

do u need the hard door/ doors locks or the rear hatch hard top lock as well ?
 
Matt @RAGINGMATT I just need an ignition switch and key(s) for it. This is for my FJ45 SWB so no rear hatch, just tailgate with no locks. I haven’t looked that close at the doors and their locks, I don’t even use the locks on my newer (65 lol) FJ40.
 
middlecalf said:
Matt @RAGINGMATT I just need an ignition switch and key(s) for it. This is for my FJ45 SWB so no rear hatch, just tailgate with no locks. I haven’t looked that close at the doors and their locks, I don’t even use the locks on my newer (65 lol) FJ40.
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ok ,

only ignition it is
 
Throwing more stuff at the rig. Actually just checking fit/form right now. So here’s what I have for the 4wd shift stuff.
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The nice looking black linkage is something I got from a third party vendor as the rig didn’t have it. At first I didn’t think it was correct, it interferes with the FD mechanism. But looking at the SOR diagram it looks like this piece that was on the rig isn’t original.
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Not sure what it’s for or why it’s on the rig. If I remove that part and put the pivot directly on the “pin” on the engine mount (it actually fits, looks like there is a bushing there for the pivot to pivot on) the linkage appears to be ok interference wise. But then what’s the long threaded bolt in the top center of the engine mount for?
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But the “pin” doesn’t look anything like what @Rock40 ’s build looks (pic is from his and Jason’s build - which is awesome!).
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Maybe it’s a year thing? Is what I have workable? @pardion any ideas?
Mark @cppilot this why I’m looking for a parts book diagram.
 
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Paul, does this help. It's from my 65.
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