17 vs 18 inch wheels - Handling Characteristics (1 Viewer)
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I'm no help on the 2016's, but can confirm the RW's are 22.2lbs w/out rings and just over 24 with.
I can weigh my take offs then subtract the posted weight of the AT23s. Unfortunately I'm on business travel so it won't be for a couple of weeks.
In regards to the OP's original question, 17vs18 - I had same dilemma last year. I had stock wheels vs 17" KO2's now. Stock wheels did allow for a bit more of a sportier performance allowing me to turn faster and be slightly more nimble. But the KO2s improved ride quality even over rough terrain. The first 1000 miles with KO2s were a bit too firm but got better over time. Personally, there are times where I like to be a semi aggressive driver by my standards and the RW KO2 combination has been my ultimate favorite. I don't need to worry about road imperfections/pot holes and can run over most anything. Stopping distance seems to be ever so slightly increased but I still love my RW KO2 combination too much to care. The LC feels more rugged and durable now. I understand the hesitation but suggest getting Rock Warrior wheels (they are the best wheel for the LC) and KO2 tires. Street performance wise KO2s are as good as michelins IMHO.
Sorry to hijack this thread but was wondering if the 2017 Tundra TRD Wheels with a P275/65 R18 Tire fit the LX 570 without any rubbing issues? It looks like the overall diameter is only 2.8% different...Also, how hard is it to transfer the TPMS and fit this sized spare under the truck?
Markuson
SILVER Star
TPMS no biggie. Discount Tire charges about $9 to transfer each TPMS sensor, which just requires repacking/sealing.
The trouble with swapping comes when switching to steel wheels, which usually have stems/sensors that sit at a different angle.
I think 285/65/18 is the size you want, 32.6" compared to the popular 285/70/17 size at 32.7". And you should probably go with LT tires for their higher specifications than P-metric.
Why? I actually picked up a pair of Tundra TRD 18's and I'm in the market. I'm 95% sold on BFG KO2's.
275/70/18 (33.2") and 285/65/18 (32.5") seem to be the most common to change to in a stock setup, of course on stock rims. You might try a shop that would try the sizes out for you and return (if they have to order) the ones that don't fit.
I'm with Chocolate for the 285/65/18. Just for a bit more height and maintaining at least stock width. I know everyone is focused on straight line traction, but going down in width gives up braking and cornering performance. Especially when lifting and going to an A/T tread/compound already further compromises that.
Thank you all for the continued insight. I'm not planning on lifting the LX. Will the 285/65/18 BFG KO2's or same size Hankook AT/M's fit without rubbing? Road and snow performance are critical. Off-road is important but the differences seem negligible given my usage.
The single entry for 285/65/18 on stock offsets (60mm, which the Tundra wheels are), reports no rubbing. Even larger tires with minimal rubbing is very superficial and easy to remedy. I stuffed 305/55/20s (33.2x12.5) with no rub after a few tweaks (documented on the forum) and my LX handles with aplomb. I've been very satisfied with my Falken's Wildpeaks on highway. I likewise wanted good snow performance which steered me to this tire.
Just to follow up on this, I actually sold the tires off my stock wheels (I know, I was surprised someone wanted just the tires, too). I weighed the bare rim and it came out to just about 33 lbs so the RW saves 11 lbs without rings and 9 lbs with. In this context that's huge.
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Good info! Thank you.
- Thread starter
- #35
So, how's the handling of the new set up?
Really? I weighed my stock wheels from my 2013 and they were 26 lbs IIRC. Definitely not >30
- Thread starter
- #37
Linuxgod, you had mentioned "sloppy handling" on your stock set up. Did your new set up alleviate this it does it still exist? Thanks
Like someone on page 1, I swapped the factory 18" wheels and Dunlops on my 2017 for 17" Rock Warriors and BFG ATs. No noticeable difference in performance. More "road chop" is transmitted through the BFG tires than the OEM Dunlops. Most people probably wouldn't notice, but I do. It's not enough to make me regret my decision at all.
There's another semi-affordable, forged aluminum, lug-centric wheel out called EvoCorse or something similar I've seen floating around the forum. You might check those if you're wanting something other than Rock Warriors with good strength.
There's another semi-affordable, forged aluminum, lug-centric wheel out called EvoCorse or something similar I've seen floating around the forum. You might check those if you're wanting something other than Rock Warriors with good strength.
On the stock 18s I found the truck would wander a bit on the highway. Not awful, but more steering wheel correction required than I'd like. 17s didn't help the situation. Even with stiffer E-load "10 ply-equivalent" sidewalls it was similar, and I found that I was a bit more susceptible to getting blown around by heavy winds at 75+.
I can't really comment on the upgraded suspension since my caster is too low and my rear springs need to be swapped this weekend. I'll let you know when it's done how it handles on the highway. Honestly I suspect the VGSR is the real impact on the wander (or at least my perception of the truck wandering a bit) - i.e. the steering ratio when cruising on the highway is too low, so very subtle steering wheel corrections don't sufficiently account for the small amount of wind of lane drift.
I experienced some sloppy handling in mountain passes on a recent road trip. I called Slee and Cristo was nice enough to return my call. He said a lot of shops set up the OME lifts with SPA UCA's with "low caster" says they should be more dialed up. I'm taking my truck in next week to see where I stand, I'm running BFG 275/70/18 KO's on stock wheels.
