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- #21
4sp style knob with 5sp shift pattern to suit the larger thread of the H55F stick. Sourced from Thai eBay seller
15BFT into '82 Aussie BJ42 (1 Viewer)
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It’s interesting that the 5 gear knob from bj42 was slightly different
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- #23
Yes, the original 40 series H55F stick had a knob with the silver face, while the 4sp knob was black. I think the stick may also have been thin the whole length like a 4sp stick, whereas the later H55F have a fatter stick.
I think the original silver 5sp knob is no longer available from Toyota, but I did buy a 4sp one 2-3 years ago so they're probably still available.
I had the option from the ebay seller to get either colour style (black or silver), but I prefered the black 4sp colour. This isn't a restoration so I'm not concerned if things are "correct" or not, but I like the old style knobs over the boring new ones.
I think the original silver 5sp knob is no longer available from Toyota, but I did buy a 4sp one 2-3 years ago so they're probably still available.
I had the option from the ebay seller to get either colour style (black or silver), but I prefered the black 4sp colour. This isn't a restoration so I'm not concerned if things are "correct" or not, but I like the old style knobs over the boring new ones.
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- #24
A local auto shop has a 20% off Australia day weekend sale, which they appear to have limited to the day before Australia day and kept the marketing quiet. Yep, political correctness in Australia has gone this far. At least my inline pump 15BFT will run on rapeseed juice if required (canola oil to those of you easily offended), and doesn't spew it's crank case to atmo like the good ol' 3B. But I digress...
Silicone intercooler hoses at ~AUD25ea and stainless clamps at ~AUD10ea adds up very quickly. 6 hoses and 12 clamps minimum to get this thing plumbed with an intercooler.
It also doesn't help that everything is a different size:
HJ60 airbox outlet 2.75"
Turbo inlet 2"
Turbo outlet 1/75"
Intercooler ports 3"
Intake 2"
The compressor outlet is a foot long and rises to the top of the engine like a swan neck, god only knows why they didn't have it expand to 2" to match the compressor inlet and the intake manifold! Not only would it make the piping easier but it would mean that all the clamps would be the same size. Seems like someone read a book that said the hot side should be smaller ID than the cold side of the intercooler and took it to heart subtracting a measly 1/4" off the hose size instead of using common sense.
The BXD10/20 intercooler pics online (see attached) look like they're ~2", same as the intake diameter. The megacruiser intercooler is also a 180deg flow design with the inlet and outlet on the same side, and longer piping to bring the hot side to the other side of the engine bay. I'm using a huge 600x300mm core which will hopefully result in less energy lost to drag through it due to lower fluid velocity, dynamic pressure converted to static pressure increasing temperature and increased fluid time within the heat exchanger, which my lazy engineering suggests will result in more effective heat transfer even if it does have a large piped volume and drop a bit more pressure than a smaller intercooler. Most information I read on oversized intercoolers seemed to be referencing larger piped volume causing boost lag, volume which I've countered by using relatively small diameter piping to the status quo amongst DIY intercooling.
It appears most people oversize piping at 2.5"-3" on the smaller 4cyl diesels with the "bigger is better" attitude. I'm assuming 2" is fine as it seems to be factory sizing, and will hopefully reduce the piped volume which will help keep the responsiveness of the tiny factory (CT12B?) turbocharger. It should also be noted that people with much larger displacement 6cyl diesel engines running high boost in the >20PSI use 3" piping, so my 4.1L 4cyl running ~10PSI should be fine. Another consideration is that expanding a 1.75" turbo outlet to 3" immediately after the turbo results in dynamic pressure conversion to static pressure (ie, energy from velocity transfers to 'pressure'), which isn't the best thing you can do to fluid flow straight out of a compressor outlet.
I'm only using a 60 series airbox because it came in the back of the bj42 roller along with a lot of other junk a PO apparently wanted to get rid of when they sold the shorty. Since I don't have a 60 and don't intend to own one, I feel zero guilt chopping it up to suit
If anyone is doing a performance build, I'd recommend finding a HDJ80 airbox as it looks larger, with a larger outlet which conveniently points down to the factory low mount turbo position.
Silicone intercooler hoses at ~AUD25ea and stainless clamps at ~AUD10ea adds up very quickly. 6 hoses and 12 clamps minimum to get this thing plumbed with an intercooler.
It also doesn't help that everything is a different size:
HJ60 airbox outlet 2.75"
Turbo inlet 2"
Turbo outlet 1/75"
Intercooler ports 3"
Intake 2"
The compressor outlet is a foot long and rises to the top of the engine like a swan neck, god only knows why they didn't have it expand to 2" to match the compressor inlet and the intake manifold! Not only would it make the piping easier but it would mean that all the clamps would be the same size. Seems like someone read a book that said the hot side should be smaller ID than the cold side of the intercooler and took it to heart subtracting a measly 1/4" off the hose size instead of using common sense.
The BXD10/20 intercooler pics online (see attached) look like they're ~2", same as the intake diameter. The megacruiser intercooler is also a 180deg flow design with the inlet and outlet on the same side, and longer piping to bring the hot side to the other side of the engine bay. I'm using a huge 600x300mm core which will hopefully result in less energy lost to drag through it due to lower fluid velocity, dynamic pressure converted to static pressure increasing temperature and increased fluid time within the heat exchanger, which my lazy engineering suggests will result in more effective heat transfer even if it does have a large piped volume and drop a bit more pressure than a smaller intercooler. Most information I read on oversized intercoolers seemed to be referencing larger piped volume causing boost lag, volume which I've countered by using relatively small diameter piping to the status quo amongst DIY intercooling.
It appears most people oversize piping at 2.5"-3" on the smaller 4cyl diesels with the "bigger is better" attitude. I'm assuming 2" is fine as it seems to be factory sizing, and will hopefully reduce the piped volume which will help keep the responsiveness of the tiny factory (CT12B?) turbocharger. It should also be noted that people with much larger displacement 6cyl diesel engines running high boost in the >20PSI use 3" piping, so my 4.1L 4cyl running ~10PSI should be fine. Another consideration is that expanding a 1.75" turbo outlet to 3" immediately after the turbo results in dynamic pressure conversion to static pressure (ie, energy from velocity transfers to 'pressure'), which isn't the best thing you can do to fluid flow straight out of a compressor outlet.
I'm only using a 60 series airbox because it came in the back of the bj42 roller along with a lot of other junk a PO apparently wanted to get rid of when they sold the shorty. Since I don't have a 60 and don't intend to own one, I feel zero guilt chopping it up to suit
If anyone is doing a performance build, I'd recommend finding a HDJ80 airbox as it looks larger, with a larger outlet which conveniently points down to the factory low mount turbo position.
