150K mile PM (1 Viewer)

[kcjaz]

The dealer did my radiator and to my knowledge they captured the original fluid and added it back in when they were done. I say "to my knowledge" because they didn't charge me to top it off. (So there's my answer to your last sentence, but it's likely not helpful to you)

Two things:

1. In my experience, normal operating temp of the AT is ~195F, which is about 90C. I don't know if AT fluid continues to "swell" as it continues to warm up though. If it does than it's a lot different between cold start (it was 15F outside this weekend) vs normal operating temp.

2. The above is irrelevant in terms of fill level though because the FSM says the fluid temp should be between 109F (43C) and 118F (48C) when checking the level.

Side note: The FSM says you should do the thermostat bypass when doing the fill procedure, so I'd go with what Toyota says there. Even if the pan level is correct, it'll likely drop once you start cycling the gears, but the thermostat won't open until it's 80C/176F IIRC which would prevent you from pushing fluid through the hoses and into the radiator.

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I seem to have a very hard time finding the procedures like you pasted above in the FSM. I assume you got that from the FSM but I can't seem to find it in mine which I got from you so I gotta think the problem is me, not the FSM... Can you point me to the right place in the FSM?

 

[linuxgod]

I seem to have a very hard time finding the procedures like you pasted above in the FSM. I assume you got that from the FSM but I can't seem to find it in mine which I got from you so I gotta think the problem is me, not the FSM... Can you point me to the right place in the FSM?

This was the section I used, in red:

 

[ajsomp]

So I’m sitting at 133k with a 2013, based on what I’ve read I need to keep an eye on:
Radiator
Starter
Belts/clamps
Tensioner
Fluid change
Packing hubs

anything else? The previous owner tooknexcetional care and had all the recommended PM done when I bought it. I recently replaced the spark plugs. What order would y’all recommend I look to replace this stuff (and how soon). My neighbor is a master Toyota mech so I’ll take it to him for the work, but it’s my DD so I can’t have it down very long.
Thanks!

 

[linuxgod]

So I’m sitting at 133k with a 2013, based on what I’ve read I need to keep an eye on:
Radiator
Starter
Belts/clamps
Tensioner
Fluid change
Packing hubs

anything else? The previous owner tooknexcetional care and had all the recommended PM done when I bought it. I recently replaced the spark plugs. What order would y’all recommend I look to replace this stuff (and how soon). My neighbor is a master Toyota mech so I’ll take it to him for the work, but it’s my DD so I can’t have it down very long.
Thanks!

If the transmission, transfer case, and diffs have not been serviced, I would get them done. For the A/T my preference is a full fluid swap, as the drain-and-refill method only gets about 25% of the fluid out.

Your radiator has the same hairline crack starting. That would be the first PM I'd do. You might go 10k miles without issue, or it might give out on you unexpectedly. Thermostat and hoses along with a coolant flush at the same time. Definitely do the belt at the same time.

As sort of a "while you're in there" thing you could do the water pump. Part is about $150-200. If yours isn't leaking though it might very well go years before it needs to be done, and they will give you lots of warning before they go, so up to you whether to address or let it ride.

I don't think you need to do the idler pulley, tensioner, etc so long as they spin smoothly and don't wobble. Honestly it's not that much extra work to do them later if need be. I was struggling to do it in my garage because I couldn't get enough leverage to release the tensioner, but my mechanic did the tensioner (which was chirping) and belt in under an hour.

Starter is a good PM but yours might go another 100k, or it might suddenly strand you. I understand it's a PITA to get to though.

The 200-series bearings are sealed. There is nothing to repack.

 

[kcjaz]

If the transmission, transfer case, and diffs have not been serviced, I would get them done. For the A/T my preference is a full fluid swap, as the drain-and-refill method only gets about 25% of the fluid out.

Your radiator has the same hairline crack starting. That would be the first PM I'd do. You might go 10k miles without issue, or it might give out on you unexpectedly. Thermostat and hoses along with a coolant flush at the same time. Definitely do the belt at the same time.

As sort of a "while you're in there" thing you could do the water pump. Part is about $150-200. If yours isn't leaking though it might very well go years before it needs to be done, and they will give you lots of warning before they go, so up to you whether to address or let it ride.

I don't think you need to do the idler pulley, tensioner, etc so long as they spin smoothly and don't wobble. Honestly it's not that much extra work to do them later if need be. I was struggling to do it in my garage because I couldn't get enough leverage to release the tensioner, but my mechanic did the tensioner (which was chirping) and belt in under an hour.

Starter is a good PM but yours might go another 100k, or it might suddenly strand you. I understand it's a PITA to get to though.

The 200-series bearings are sealed. There is nothing to repack.

Regarding the "while you're there", thing that can snowball and I've certainly gone down that path. I'm glad I have replaced the tensioner, idler, and fan bracket/bearing as comparing new to old I can feel a difference. That said, I doubt any of those items would have caused a real problem within the next 50K and after replacing those items, doing so isn't terrible (one tricky bolt for fan bracket but once you know the trick...) and doesn't require removal of the radiator. In all honesty, probably the biggest benefit I'm getting out of my 150K PM is personal knowledge of how to get to and replace all of these items. I now have a much higher level of understanding and knowledge of my vehicle. I could not do this if my 200 was my daily driver. I took my truck apart the week after Christmas. I should get it running again next Saturday and I still have not done the starter. If Saturday goes poorly, it doesn't matter. I have the luxury of time.

 

[CharlieS]

Once you've done it once, the radiator, thermostat, water pump, tensioner, idler and belt can be done in a half day, or a day at most if you are going at a leisurely pace, with copious breaks. I've done it on several Toyota 5.7 daily drivers, and it didn't lead to extended downtime.

 

[kcjaz]

Once you've done it once, the radiator, thermostat, water pump, tensioner, idler and belt can be done in a half day, or a day at most if you are going at a leisurely pace, with copious breaks. I've done it on several Toyota 5.7 daily drivers, and it didn't lead to extended downtime.

100% agree. One of the most time consuming things is just figuring out how to access some of the parts and bolts. I spent 7 hours removing the alternator but I'm pretty sure I could replace one in half that time now (still no picnic but I could do it on a trail if I had to). I'll likely never have to but that gives me a lot of piece of mind. Some of these things I have done more than once already because I screwed some things up or reassembled in the wrong order. I had it all buttoned up last Saturday and found a self inflected coolant leak, requiring the fan and shroud to come back out and removal of a few other things to get to the bypass housing bolts that I failed to torque. Dumb a$$ mistake but its called learning. While I certainly get a lot of help here and by others, most of the things I have ever truly learned have come from fouling them up the first time.

 

[kcjaz]

Got all the front mounted parts and hoses replaced. Truck is running and purring line a kitten. I have a set of new spark plugs and intend to replace the old ones. Should I also replace the coil packs as PM? Or should I buy the coil packs to have on hand and replace if necessary?

 

[bloc]

Got all the front mounted parts and hoses replaced. Truck is running and purring line a kitten. I have a set of new spark plugs and intend to replace the old ones. Should I also replace the coil packs as PM? Or should I buy the coil packs to have on hand and replace if necessary?

These coils rarely have problems so I’d save the money, personally. If one emerges as an issue later you have seven other cylinders to get you by, and they are easy to change so there isn’t really much advantage to “while I’m in there”

 

[kcjaz]

These coils rarely have problems so I’d save the money, personally. If one emerges as an issue later you have seven other cylinders to get you by, and they are easy to change so there isn’t really much advantage to “while I’m in there”

Agree. My thought was to buy one to carry just in case. I had a spark plug go bad on me once, and that put me in "limp home mode" but it didn't stop or strand me.