150k Maintenance and Most Common Leaks Saga (2 Viewers)

[Jbuckley21]

Well I am in the thick of it (2011 156k miles only owner and in the salt belt). Quick run down of events.

Alternator went day before we had to move our son up to school. Had to drop at local shop, ran it there on new battery before the battery died. Noticed radiator fluid in engine bay when I was diagnosing the Alternator and mentioned to shop but they came up blank. Also forgot to ask about pulleys etc while they were in there. Truck came back with a bolt laying on top of skid guards and a new alternator and non Toyota belt. And so it began…

Radiator failed in the common spot. So given the pulleys were not replaced I did a deep dive into 150k maintenance items and replace radiator. Ordered up Radiator (came damaged and replaced from dealer) and parts to address 150k PM items (Tensioner and Idler pulleys, Fan bracket and clutch along with water pump). In digging through the forum and came upon the common leaks, which lead to engine leaks and spark plugs and wells (spark plug tubes are almost all full of oil).

So here is where I am at…

I wouldn’t be here without a lot of your alls valuable input on these threads. TBF I am 1 banana mechanic and a bean counter by trade, so will see how this goes. Day three and I have radiator out along with the dreaded fan bracket, AC compressor pulley (couldn’t figure out bolt and it was locked on) tensioner/idler/thermo/water pump/ Passenger side wiring harness, Heater Ts, Manifold, PVC, Secondary Air and Fuel injectors.

On fan bracket and the 2 metal coolant tubes that are bracketed over; I didnt see this in any of the YT videos or posts, but what worked best for me was to remove the thermostats housing, which allows the coolant pipe with the small hose to come off easily. You can then move those pipes out of the way no problem.

I could use some input on a few things as I move through, any input greatly appreciated even if a link to a thread I haven’t seen and think I have read most of them.

1. First being best way to clean fuel injector ports into block. Also carb cleaner on the fuel injectors them selves to clean gunk? I am going to try and plug and clean around but a ton of gunk (infestation and grim) and trying to not allow stuff to fall into the top of the heads. Anyone had to do this in the past and any suggestions?

2. Should I really replace heat exchanger as Carcarenut suggests, as seen in pics I had very sizeable leak? I saw a lot of folks elect not to do that in the threads.
3. Pulleys for water pump and AC are bit rough some minimal rusts, just clean up. Maybe treat rusted area or replace?
4. This one is a bit nuts because I suspect its out of my league, but given where I am and that I am going into replace Spark plug tube and other gaskets ( I know Taco mentions could be bottom of block which is out of my league so will try this), do I even think about going for cam tower and head leak (again likely out of my league)? I don’t burn much oil if any and could spray degreaser as Bloc and Linux and others suggest. Leaning this way, as I don’t have all the specs from the FSM on bolt torqs or sequences although I am sure it can be obtained. Should I start to use the 5w 30 and go with the valvoline R&R?

This is definitely going to bleed into next week, waiting on parts and chasing kids, but hoping to button all up by next weekend.

Other current mods and upgrades or maintenance complete:
1. Wheels and suspension - need to add to the database but Dobinsons lift and springs AT4s on Methods
2. Gamviviti rack
3. Front brake mod to 16+
4. All diffs and fluids done at 100k, except power steering which I need to figure out and will try and do now.
5. I read and watched CCN view of Starter. Seeing how I have had fails at 150k I am worried I may not get much more out of mine. Exhausted mani bolts are rusty as F, should I go for it now, or wait for it to go in its own time? I don’t tow, but do still load up the family and go skiing or on other trips with the cruiser.
6. Just had entire underneath applied with Rust preventative and painted. Paint was still wet as I dripped coolant on it

Hope this is somewhat informative for others and appreciate any input from the collective in advance as I limp my way through this.

 

[Jbuckley21]

Adding pics of water pump pulley and AC compressor pulley, couldn’t fit in other. My AC compressor pulley came with 2 washers, not 3. From what I read here in the forums these come with either 1,2 or 3 depending on what was required on install to line it all up.

 

[Jbuckley21]

Last pulley pics. Bit concerned about rust or no??

 

[linuxgod]

If you've gotten this far, do the valley plate/heat exchanger. The leak ain't getting better, so otherwise prepare to pull the intake off again in the future to do the job.

Starter isn't really a "while you're in there" kind of thing in this case. Not saying don't do it, just that you can plan to do it at another time.

PCV valve while you're in there because it's <$10.

I'm assuming at 150k miles the plugs were done once. I'd do them though again I don't think there's much labor savings for what you're working on.

If your timing cover is leaking, now could be the time to replace it, since most of the cost is the labor to get everything off the front of the engine, and apparently you've done 90% of that. If yours is leaking and you decide to go for it, the driver's side timing chain tensioner is like $50 and is worth doing.

 

[Jbuckley21]

If you've gotten this far, do the valley plate/heat exchanger. The leak ain't getting better, so otherwise prepare to pull the intake off again in the future to do the job.

Starter isn't really a "while you're in there" kind of thing in this case. Not saying don't do it, just that you can plan to do it at another time.

PCV valve while you're in there because it's <$10.

I'm assuming at 150k miles the plugs were done once. I'd do them though again I don't think there's much labor savings for what you're working on.

If your timing cover is leaking, now could be the time to replace it, since most of the cost is the labor to get everything off the front of the engine, and apparently you've done 90% of that. If yours is leaking and you decide to go for it, the driver's side timing chain tensioner is like $50 and is worth doing.

Thanks for the input Linux.

I have the sparks gapped and ready. I have the PCV valve and will replace. Still a bit of rattle with a shake so not fully clogged.

WRT engine leaks pics below are where I can see them, and need to check under wheel wells. Clearly coming down on oil cooler/Ac compressor, but also looks like a leak in the left valve cover in the back which would sit behind the fuel rail on the passenger side. Hopefully new gaskets fix that.

Any good source for info on the timing cover section? Still a bit nervous about taking that part on.