12V Outlet (1 Viewer)

[SunTzuMD]

CDan - Alright, I'll bite. How much?

 

[DRTDuck]

Looks like you have some nice color match cup holders on there. Any details of where you got them and what kind?

I have generic cheap black ones there, but the kids feet have trashed them, I need some new ones.

I used a Toyota power tap at the battery that came from the Tundra towing package. It has a replaceable and upgradable 30 amp fuse. The tapped power is then routed thru a PriorityPlus! that automatically disconnects the power tap in the event the battery is drained below 40% charge.

From the PriorityPlus!, a 10 guage wire cover by a split loom is routed to the fuse block under the front passenger's seat - similar to the Slee aux fusebox setup. I've only added a fuse block with 4 positions since I was only adding 4 power points. I did leave a covered pigtail for future expansion of the fuseblock.

I have 4 individually fused, constant powered 12V outlets - one below the front glove box, two at the center console, and one at the rear passenger-side quarter panel. The two 12V power outlets at the center console are most often used. They are easily accessible from the first and second row passengers, and can also be used to charge by cell phone inside the center console.

While I had the interior apart, I ran an additional (unused) wire from the aux fuse block to the rear quarter panel in case I needed a second 12V outlet at the rear cargo area. So far, I've not had the need for it.

 

[97 FZJ80]

Looks like you have some nice color match cup holders on there. Any details of where you got them and what kind?

I have generic cheap black ones there, but the kids feet have trashed them, I need some new ones.

1-800-Spillfree. These cupholders aren't the most ergonomic nor the strongest, but it does have a OEM look to it and is color-matched to the oak interior of my Lexus. I paid about $100 for the set of cupholders. One major design flaw of these cupholders is if left in the open position, the cupholders will break when the second row seat flips forward for the third row passenger to enter/exit. Spillfree will repair the cupholder for about $15 a piece (ask me how I know)

If I were to do it all over again, I would used the Fischer cupholders and paint them to match my oak interior.

 

[firetruck41]

Here's my power outlet. I ran 10 guage wires fused at a fuse block at the battery. I ran both positive and negaitve so I don't have to rely on a body ground. I may add a second one if there is a need. The second pic show the aux fuse block at the battery-it's fed by an 8ga jumper from the positive battery terminal. I liked the setup so well, I duplicated it in my FJ60.

Where does the negative go into the fuse block? And where do you get a fuse block like that and how much $$.
I just got my used 32 qt Norcold fridge freezer, and need to wire up a couple cigarette lighter/power points in the cargo area, hoping you can get a fuse block like that at NAPA.

I will run fused 6g stranded from batt. to fuse block then will have 10A fuse at fuse block and 10g the power point. Will this suffice?

Edit: I am an idiot, should have read your whole post.

 

[FirstToy]

Hey I did the mod!- took a bit of figuring out (I flunk electrical 101) but w/ the help of Andy& Doug I got it all done.
Hardwired for fridge, CB and fusebox to add more stuff. I basically copied Cruiserdrew's setup- post #9 above (same fusebox, I got it at Kragen).
I used a 15A fuse for the fridge and 10A fuse for the CB. Use 10gauge wire! hehe

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

I've posted this option before, but I thought I would outline an alternative.

I recently installed a 12V plug system for my truck (and outside) that does not use the bulky and generally cheap quality 'cigar lighter' plugs. IMHO, these plugs are outdated and are only used due to the legacy of having a cigarette lighter in the car as the only easy place to tap into - if you were to design a 12V power source from scratch, you wouldn't use these things.

The system I'm using uses 'Anderson Power Poles' that are very small, polarity matched (positive and negative) plugs. These plugs are rated for far higher electrical loads (for those that need this - 30Amps for one series of plugs and 45Amps for the other series - both are the same size). As it stands, mine isn't wired to accept this as you would need to run different power lines for each plug

The biggest advantage (for me) is that I have a 4 plug-in jack (ie same as having 4 12V cigar outlets) that is installed in the dash in one of the free switch blanks (I'm using one of the blanks on the lower level near the cigarette plug). I actually use the cig lighter location to hold a goose neck Hella map light. Beside this is the plug in location that I use to run all sorts of things like: my GPS, amateur radio power and inverter to run the laptop, small plug in fridge, etc. Far less bulky than having all sorts of big lighter plugs.

I've also installed the connections on my deep cycle boat battery, which allows me to seamlessley move these items to other locations. when I get the time, I plan to have similar outlets in the back of the truck.

The only catch is that you need to find all of your 12V cigarette lighter power cords and chop the end off and install these plugs. Not a big deal as long as you can identify positive and negative. The one other caution is that it is FAR easier to install these with a specialized crimper - an investment I was happy to make to save the frustraiton of crimping the leads on poorly.

I know you wants pics, but I'm off on vacation and won't get the chance to post...do a search

Cheers, Hugh

 

[FirstToy]

The system I'm using uses 'Anderson Power Poles'

The only catch is that you need to find all of your 12V cigarette lighter power cords and chop the end off and install these plugs. Not a big deal as long as you can identify positive and negative. The one other caution is that it is FAR easier to install these with a specialized crimper - an investment I was happy to make to save the frustraiton of crimping the leads on poorly.

Cheers, Hugh

I could only find your posts and store links. It would help if I saw it actually installed... it looks like home stereo hookups... post some pics when you get back. it sounds intersting.

Seems alot easier to just plug in the fridge or other accessories since 12V cig plugs are standard. If you happen to buy a little accessory, you can just plug it in.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

I will post, the main reason for (most) to do this is the space savings - I need to power four things at the same time and I just plug them into a jack on the dash vs having room to support 4 large plugs.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[wileetoyote]

here's the previous post on this subject with my mods halfway down the post

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=26782&highlight=cupholder

For 97 FZJ, I did buy the Fischers and yes they 'tweak' when lay the 2nd row seats on top of them when their open but they haven't broken. They now over-extend a little bit which took the smoothness away from when you close them but overall they still function perfectly. I'm still very impressed with them.

WET

 

[97 FZJ80]

WET,

Does the folded up third row seat interferes with the third row cupholder mounted on the driver's side rear quarter panel? Can you still access the 12V outlet with the 3rd row seat folded up?

 

[97 FZJ80]

Thread highjack:

 

[wileetoyote]

97 FZJ,

Yes, they fold up and fit very nicely. I'll take a pic tonight after work and post.

WET

 

[wileetoyote]

pics as promised...

 

[Brentbba]

Here's my power outlet. I ran 10 guage wires fused at a fuse block at the battery. I ran both positive and negaitve so I don't have to rely on a body ground. I may add a second one if there is a need. The second pic show the aux fuse block at the battery-it's fed by an 8ga jumper from the positive battery terminal. I liked the setup so well, I duplicated it in my FJ60.

edit-The 12v outlet is West Marine's "good" one supposedly waterproof if used with the matching plug. It works great with a regular plug. The fuse block is from Napa-about $14. It works well, is easy to mount and is inexpensive.

You can pick up that Buse fuse block at Kragen for $10.99. Just purchased last night. Painless Cirkit Boss is headed back. Too big to fit anywhere.

Cruiserdrew. Is it my imagination or is there no negative lead on this fuse block? Did you use an inline fuse or a circuit breaker style. 30 amp? At least this little one will mount at the battery box. Other place I'm considering is at the back of the engine bay up high on the metal. That way there's just one wire running thru the engine bay to the battery box.

May also play around with this smaller one to see if I can find a good hidden mounting location and get another one as a 'switched' fuse block for those type of accessories in the truck.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You can pick up that Buse fuse block at Kragen for $10.99. Just purchased last night. Painless Cirkit Boss is headed back. Too big to fit anywhere.

Cruiserdrew. Is it my imagination or is there no negative lead on this fuse block? Did you use an inline fuse or a circuit breaker style. 30 amp? At least this little one will mount at the battery box. Other place I'm considering is at the back of the engine bay up high on the metal. That way there's just one wire running thru the engine bay to the battery box.

May also play around with this smaller one to see if I can find a good hidden mounting location and get another one as a 'switched' fuse block for those type of accessories in the truck.

Right-no negative lead. I have a negative assessory buss near the ground cable for the battery. The advantage of mounting the fuse box right next to the battery is to keep the unfused wire that feeds it to a minimum. Mine is about 6 inches long, and well protected. If you want to be really thorough, put a 50 amp in line fuse right at the battery terminal. If you mount the fuse panel inside the truck, or on the firewall, I would for sure, fuse the wire at the battery.

 

[Brentbba]

Right-no negative lead. I have a negative assessory buss near the ground cable for the battery. The advantage of mounting the fuse box right next to the battery is to keep the unfused wire that feeds it to a minimum. Mine is about 6 inches long, and well protected. If you want to be really thorough, put a 50 amp in line fuse right at the battery terminal. If you mount the fuse panel inside the truck, or on the firewall, I would for sure, fuse the wire at the battery.

Negative accessory buss?? What's that? An extra fuse box for negative ground wires?

So if I'm following you and mount the fuse box on the firewall location in the engine bay, I'll need to put a fuse on the line and it's better to put the fuse on the line to the battery closer to the battery than the fuse box? As close as you have it, you haven't fused the line between your fuse box and the battery? Sorry, Electrical 101 is not my best subject. I'm stupid enough to be dangerous, and just smart enough to ask questions before I do anything.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Negative accessory buss?? What's that? An extra fuse box for negative ground wires?

So if I'm following you and mount the fuse box on the firewall location in the engine bay, I'll need to put a fuse on the line and it's better to put the fuse on the line to the battery closer to the battery than the fuse box? As close as you have it, you haven't fused the line between your fuse box and the battery? Sorry, Electrical 101 is not my best subject. I'm stupid enough to be dangerous, and just smart enough to ask questions before I do anything.

The negative buss is just like a fuse panel without fuses. It has spade connectors that the ground wires attach to, then a main wire to the negative pole of the battery, No need for a fuse-it's ground and directly connected to the negative pole of the battery, so there are none of the usual issues you would have with a body ground.

The longer the unfused wire from the battery, the greater the electrical risk of a short. My main power wire goes directly from the positive pole to my fuse box. It is unfused, but low risk due to location, and very short length(6 inches or so).

I think NorCalDoug, you know, the pres, has an 8ga unfused wire running from his battery to the back of his truck. If I see a burnt out 80 series out on I-80, between Roseville and Sacramento, I'll know whose it is! I think he plans to remedy that situation before the Rubicon trip in Sept.

I think Brett-you'll find this is pretty simple. Once you mount it and start wiring, it will all make intuitive sense. Just do this: Before you start, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Better yet, remove the battery. You don't want any hot wires in the system anywhere while you work on it. Just my $0.02.

 

[Brentbba]

Yep - remember that thread chastising the President for his unfused wire. Completely understand what you are saying.

Thanks!

 

[FirstToy]

Andy,
I have the fusebox under the dash so I guess about 3-4' of 10g wire from battery to fusebox. Should I add a fuse at the battery POS+ terminal area? If so, what amp fuse?

Also I am thinking of swapping the 10g for 8g from the batt to fusebox-- but only if you think it's necessary, as I don't want to redo it..again! hehe.

Thanks!

 

[FirstToy]

ah ok, I missed this answered already

If you want to be really thorough, put a 50 amp in line fuse right at the battery terminal. If you mount the fuse panel inside the truck, or on the firewall, I would for sure, fuse the wire at the battery.