12h-t freshen up and swap (11 Viewers)

[mcguirejohnson]

I am ordering all of the gaskets that aren't available in the U.S from Dave at Japan 4x4. Working on an order right now that consists of the head gasket, oil pan gasket, intake & exhaust manifold gaskets, turbo to manifold gasket, and a few others. Surprisingly the rear main seal, front crank seal, and the valve cover gaskets were available here in the US. I assume that they are identical to the 2H?

Quick question to the masses, what kind of sealant should I use while putting this back together? I am leaning towards using an aviation rated gasket sealer but I just wanted to check here first.

Once I get the motor buttoned up I am going to focus my efforts on picking up a complete gasket set from Japan (OEM) and get the afin pistons and other hard parts from Engines Aus just to have so that I am ready when it comes time to rebuild. I feel like getting OEM parts is going to get a lot harder in the coming years so now is the time to jump on all of that. I am also trying to find out how much a set of OEM injectors are. Seems like getting them rebuilt here in the states is pretty impossible.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Come on @watrob your making my build look like child's play beautiful motor none the less. I will go in that much detail when time & money agrees. Thank goodness that my coolant system didn't look all rusty like yours... That looks like a classic case of "water will work" instead of using coolant.

 

[watrob]

Engine Australia and a couple other high end companies like HmGem Engines that do a lot engine rebuilds for the mining industry have good gasket kits. And yes I do a full rebuild of the head & block, new pistons, bearings the lot.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Watrob, what is consensus on injectors? How can I tell if they need servicing or not? Are their core charges/ exchanges for
injectors? Can anything be done to improve the performance, or just rebuild and go? My truck runs like a dream, running a
conservative max 12 lbs boost but I do long trips and am always looking for max economy with my performance.
Mcguire, hoping to not hijack your thread, just get some info that might help both of us. J

 

[watrob]

Diesel Australia charged me around $360 on an exchange/recondition of my 6 injectors. There would be plenty of diesel companies out there that would charge the same price.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I'd be dreaming to get them rebuilt / exchanged here for $60 an injector. But I will check.

 

[carpet]

Had mine rebuilt for $80 each. 13b-t only the four to get done was told they were in reasonable condition though, still had them done.

 

[watrob]

Come on @watrob your making my build look like child's play beautiful motor none the less. I will go in that much detail when time & money agrees. Thank goodness that my coolant system didn't look all rusty like yours... That looks like a classic case of "water will work" instead of using coolant.

I bought this engine complete for $1,400, but it needed a rebuild, rebuild will run into about $5,500.

 

[watrob]

Watrob, what is consensus on injectors? How can I tell if they need servicing or not? Are their core charges/ exchanges for
injectors? Can anything be done to improve the performance, or just rebuild and go? My truck runs like a dream, running a
conservative max 12 lbs boost but I do long trips and am always looking for max economy with my performance.
Mcguire, hoping to not hijack your thread, just get some info that might help both of us. J

I would not turn the wick up on an old 12HT engine, if its running leave it alone, after 30 years a piston ring could go at anytime as could the turbo. There is a chap on the forum here who bought 60 series with a 12Ht, and was driving back home after he had just bought it, said along the way it was running like a charm, 2 day out it blew up?

You just don't know when these old engines will let go?

PS, Add a litre of canola oil to each tank of diesel to help the IP as the newer diesel fuel does not lubricate the IP as the old fuel did.

 

[Tapage]

Also I was not aware that the oil pan does not have a gasket. Dave @ Japan 4x4 said to just goop on a bunch of RTV and be done with it. Any recommendations there for what kind to use?

this one .?

 

[mcguirejohnson]

this one .?

Perfect, I didn't even know they had that at Toyota.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Got to work today scrubbing down the block, head, valve cover, and intake manifold. Everything is pretty much ready, just waiting for the gaskets and seals to come in.

The head and valve cover cleaned up:

The factory blue paint cleaned up nice:

Nice and clean:

Intake manifold, also cleaned off the heater core:

Soaking the water hardlines in vinegar to clean them up:

 

[mcguirejohnson]

 

[watrob]

Okay so I now have most of the gaskets that I need to seal the block back up in route.

Those who are familiar with sealing up a block, what kind of gasket sealant do y'all prefer? I was thinking of something along the lines of a permatex aviation formula since it has a high heat rating. Maybe a Black high heat RTV for the lower heat sections?

Also I was not aware that the oil pan does not have a gasket. Dave @ Japan 4x4 said to just goop on a bunch of RTV and be done with it. Any recommendations there for what kind to use?

I have the block pretty clean at the moment, and honestly I like the look of the old faded blue OEM paint so I think I am just going to run it. It's amazing how much grease and grime this thing has acquired in the past 30 years. I will update this thread later today to show how I am moving along.

Also I have my eyes set on this alternator from AUS:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-...36?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item462aa250e8

Has anyone used this unit before? Kind of a one shot deal since it will be a b**ch to return.

Any alternator off a 2H will work, green plug on top means internal regulator, black plug means you need an external regulator, the black plugs are mainly for 40series that had diesel engines?

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Been pretty busy the past couple of weeks and haven't had time to do an update. Most of my parts came in from Japan 4x4 and @beno (Thank you!!) so i've been busy getting the motor ready to drop in. Re-assymbled the head, changed the front crank seal, and basically have it to the point where I just have to drop the oil pan, change the rear main and then drop it in!

Today I pulled the 2f out! It was fairly easy! Marked all of the important wires with tape so that whenever I am splicing in the Diesel harness it will be a little bit easier.

I still need to order a starter and alternator, and I need to do so soon so that they don't hold up the operation! Anyways that's really all I have so far, here are some pictures:


Nothing like OEM parts

Fresh Head Gasket going on.

Coming together:

Bittersweet moment...

 

[mcguirejohnson]

It took a lot of force to get the pulley off:

I've been looking foreword to doing this for a while!

 

[OGBeno]

YEAH BRO!!!

 

[TLC Norway]

Good stuff!
You're gonna love it!

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Quick update:

The motor is now together and ready to be dropped into its permanent home! All that is left to do is cut off the 2f motor mounts which will happen today and then my Dad and I are going to fit it up tonight. Also I received my Bosch 12V Alternator from Australia, very nice unit!

I replaced the rear main seal, re-sealed the oil pan, and started looking at the throttle cable/ pedal setup. I am hoping that the stock RHD HJ61 cable will work. Has anyone integrated the hand throttle system that came with the HJ? It fits in the empty hole on the right side of the steering wheel... I am wondering if that could be used as a manual "cruise control". I know it will just keep the RPMs at a certain level but it could work.


Also I am looking into fabricating a manual shut-off lever instead of using the vacuum system, any thoughts on this?

More to come soon!

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Oh also my dad (@CenTXFJ60) decided that he couldn't go without a diesel in his rig... I present to you guys a 0-mileage 12h-t that was imported here into the states back in 1988. It's a package deal: 83 fj60 with 83k original miles, h55f and split case with only 5k on them, and the 0 mileage 12h-t aka the unicorn. Looks like I will be doing another swap in the near future but it should be a breeze since I am learning everything with my rig.