cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Frick right the fruk off with all your mad skills. Son of a biatch!
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Ugh, I know the feeling. Had the opportunity to use a dry, warm shop a few weekends back and replaced my front calipers and pads. Ive got brakes again after 3 years and it Was Worth It!!! Considering the improvement, I would do thus again with water dripping down my neck 
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- Thread starter
- #703
Yeah. Maybe I'll snag some calipers to bang in.Ugh, I know the feeling. Had the opportunity to use a dry, warm shop a few weekends back and replaced my front calipers and pads. Ive got brakes again after 3 years and it Was Worth It!!! Considering the improvement, I would do thus again with water dripping down my neck
I'll have to dig around and see when I did them last.
Don't think I'm zen enough for rotors right now but I don't think I've even swapped out the pads on them since they were all new.
I’ve bought pads from Bumper to Bumper a few times recently. Their house brand has a strip of abrasive grit about 1.5” wide in the middle of the pad to assist with break in. It’s almost like they know people don’t turn rotors every time the pads are replaced.
Not that I would ever do that… I would always pull both the 35ish pound rotor assemblies, when doing a brake job at the side of the road in Vancouver, and walk them to the nearest machine shop to have them turned before installing new pads (while stranded in Vancouver for two months).
For the Ambo I have extreme service Raybestos rotors that are designed for heavy commercial trucks that are run hard. There was a night and day difference when I installed them. It’s 9500 lbs+ and an automatic so it kinda eats brake pads for brakefast.
For the 40, standard duty semi metallic seem to work fine. My first set of front pads lasted 20 years and 95k miles. They probably would have lasted a while longer, but I figured they were due. I definitely got my $21 worth out of them.
- Thread starter
- #705
Well, shims are in.
Looking at rotors , driver's side is good enough to just bang in new pads, but passenger side is pretty ****ed. So I'll just do a full brake job and replace them next week .
Might throw these in today tho. Mine aren't terrible but the one on the steering box is pretty loose and the adjuster is seized, so ****it.
No sense saving them.
Looking at rotors , driver's side is good enough to just bang in new pads, but passenger side is pretty ****ed. So I'll just do a full brake job and replace them next week .
Might throw these in today tho. Mine aren't terrible but the one on the steering box is pretty loose and the adjuster is seized, so ****it.
No sense saving them.
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- #706
Always a slight worry when buying steering parts from aus they'll be upside down, but apparently I got the right ones. 
The tres that were in there were off the blue parts truck, so mileage unknown, but they seemed pretty fresh at the time I did the LHD swap.
I did this to the adjustable links so that they hopefully don't seize up like the old ones did.
And now just an alignment and see how far off the steering wheel is.
The tres that were in there were off the blue parts truck, so mileage unknown, but they seemed pretty fresh at the time I did the LHD swap.
I did this to the adjustable links so that they hopefully don't seize up like the old ones did.
And now just an alignment and see how far off the steering wheel is.
- Thread starter
- #707
Siping is useful...just don't forget to take the screw out a******
I was thinking about alignment. I've always gone with about 1/4" toe in.
But on a truck with a few degrees of extra positive caster, I wonder if I could trim that down a bit.
I'm about 3/16" right now. Good enough I think. Previously I got it close then added a bit more toe to help twitchy steering, but measuring I was either right a 0 degrees before this or a fraction negative. So my steering was bound to be twitchy.
Need to go for a quick burn and adjust the drag link now.
I was thinking about alignment. I've always gone with about 1/4" toe in.
But on a truck with a few degrees of extra positive caster, I wonder if I could trim that down a bit.
I'm about 3/16" right now. Good enough I think. Previously I got it close then added a bit more toe to help twitchy steering, but measuring I was either right a 0 degrees before this or a fraction negative. So my steering was bound to be twitchy.
Need to go for a quick burn and adjust the drag link now.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Gotta do my front brake pads too I just noticed. Little preoccupied at the moment with other problems though, haha. One thing I'm happy about is running 40 series hubs rotors on my truck now. Can just unbolt rotors instead of pressing off. I like that actually. 80 series went back that route too.
- Thread starter
- #709
Quick burn and it's downright boring to drive now. Staying in one lane like some kinda fancy modern car.
As usual, it was easier to just take the steering wheel off and center it that way.
Brakes next week. Funny the core charge was actually more than the calipers.
They really want them back
Came with all the pins and clips which is kinda nice. I usually have an extra set around to throw in the box for cores, but I must have used them up already.
As usual, it was easier to just take the steering wheel off and center it that way.
Brakes next week. Funny the core charge was actually more than the calipers.
They really want them back
Came with all the pins and clips which is kinda nice. I usually have an extra set around to throw in the box for cores, but I must have used them up already.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
I'm jealous! Guess I should add this to the list. I'm scared to even let people drive mine on highway.Quick burn and it's downright boring to drive now. Staying in one lane like some kinda fancy modern car.
As usual, it was easier to just take the steering wheel off and center it that way.
Brakes next week. Funny the core charge was actually more than the calipers.
They really want them back
Came with all the pins and clips which is kinda nice. I usually have an extra set around to throw in the box for cores, but I must have used them up already.
- Thread starter
- #711
I'm jealous! Guess I should add this to the list. I'm scared to even let people drive mine on highway.
Lol, I have the red overboost light on my dash. Never comes on unless I floor it up a hill.
Wife drives it once..." what's the red light that keeps coming on?"
It’s really weird driving an old Landcruiser after installing castor shims… being able to release the death grip on the steering wheel and have it go straight… almost will return to centre after a corner.
With radial 33s I’m happy with an eighth of toe in with the push pin method.
With radial 33s I’m happy with an eighth of toe in with the push pin method.
- Thread starter
- #713
Really begs the question of why they felt only.5 or 1 degree was enough from the factory.
I don't really see any downside to having a few more degrees of positive. A lot of the benefits people see with shackle reversals is just some extra positive caster smoothing things out.
Maybe the old manual steering was easier at low speeds. That's about the only reason I can think of.
I don't really see any downside to having a few more degrees of positive. A lot of the benefits people see with shackle reversals is just some extra positive caster smoothing things out.
Maybe the old manual steering was easier at low speeds. That's about the only reason I can think of.
Neutral castor (fewer *) and smaller tires make manual steering easier to turn. Everything I’ve read over many years recommends 3-5 degrees if you’re using bigger tires and have P/S. 1* isn’t enough to help big tires return to centre.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
I think I need a 4-5 degree shim in the bandeirante. With a gust of wind and semi truck road grooves,I swear the incoming traffic craps their pants a bit. Definitely white knuckle driving.
But not as bad as driving my bj60 with a welded front in traffic in the snow.
But not as bad as driving my bj60 with a welded front in traffic in the snow.
- Thread starter
- #716
Yeah it's 100% worth it.
My 60 was fine till I got the 16's and started hitting deep puddles every 30 seconds on the highway.
Going through ginch a lot less frequently should offset the cost of the ubolts.
- Thread starter
- #717
As expected, I should have shimmed the axle 5+ years ago. Can go through rutted two tracked intersections on the highway without touching the wheel. Smooth as a gravy sammich.
Added a bit more toe, but I think the remaining shimmying I feel above 80 is due to the ****ed caliper sticking.
Need one more trip to work out of it... preferably without touching the brakes
Rotors have certainly increased in price. Yeesh.
Added a bit more toe, but I think the remaining shimmying I feel above 80 is due to the ****ed caliper sticking.
Need one more trip to work out of it... preferably without touching the brakes
Rotors have certainly increased in price. Yeesh.
- Thread starter
- #718
After several visits and even more phone calls I managed to finally get my rotors from lordco. Fecking morons. 
Anyways. Half done. Hose straight to caliper seems to work. I'll have to make a new axle hard line. Probably for the other side too...but they're probably overdue.
Apparently the last time I did brakes was June 3, 2017.
So 7.5 years and about 110k km. Not bad I guess.
Probably could get away without replacing the other side, but feels wrong to no do both . Not bad to freshen up the wheel bearing grease if nothing else.
New rotors are 20mm, and they say minimum is 19mm... I wonder if they used to be thicker or if there was always just 1mm of wear (allegedly) allowed
Anyways. Half done. Hose straight to caliper seems to work. I'll have to make a new axle hard line. Probably for the other side too...but they're probably overdue.
Apparently the last time I did brakes was June 3, 2017.
So 7.5 years and about 110k km. Not bad I guess.
Probably could get away without replacing the other side, but feels wrong to no do both . Not bad to freshen up the wheel bearing grease if nothing else.
New rotors are 20mm, and they say minimum is 19mm... I wonder if they used to be thicker or if there was always just 1mm of wear (allegedly) allowed
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Looks very good!After several visits and even more phone calls I managed to finally get my rotors from lordco. Fecking morons.
Anyways. Half done. Hose straight to caliper seems to work. I'll have to make a new axle hard line. Probably for the other side too...but they're probably overdue.
View attachment 3804821
Apparently the last time I did brakes was June 3, 2017.
So 7.5 years and about 110k km. Not bad I guess.
Probably could get away without replacing the other side, but feels wrong to no do both . Not bad to freshen up the wheel bearing grease if nothing else.
New rotors are 20mm, and they say minimum is 19mm... I wonder if they used to be thicker or if there was always just 1mm of wear (allegedly) allowed
Somehow I managed to find ridiculous good deals on rotors at rock auto last couple times; maybe just coincidence. Basically given up on local suppliers now because of hassle and costs.
- Thread starter
- #720
Yeah if I had planned a bit better I'd have ordered online for sure. Had hoped to do them in the spring but calipers had other plans
Even parts avatar lists them for half what lordco wanted. Ended up being 80 each, so not the end of the world. At least I got them...the week between Xmas and new years is like worst case scenario for shipping anything lol
I have my doubts I'll be putting another 100k on this truck to be honest, so this could be the last time.
Measuring the "good" rotor, it's about 19.5mm if I don't measure in the divot. So yep, it was ****ed too.