120k Starter, Radiator, Waterpump parts

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Got my 200 with 113k and it now turned 120k!
Thinking about replacing the starter, radiator and water pump before heading to moab this spring!
Anything else I need to replace not listed below? (Or anything I don't really need?)
I hear people also change out the idler pulley as well?
Ze68jNz.png
 
I had a front engine service on my 2011 last Fall, water pump & serp belt, my radiator was already replaced at some point. I did the upper & lower rad hoses replaced (which you have on your list), I also did the serp belt tensioner (16620-0S011) and idler (16603-38011). I also had the plugs replaced (SK20HR11, bought on Amazon). I also highly recommend you replace the PCV valve if you are not sure if it's been done recently.
 
Got my 200 with 113k and it now turned 120k!
Thinking about replacing the starter, radiator and water pump before heading to moab this spring!
Anything else I need to replace not listed below? (Or anything I don't really need?)
I hear people also change out the idler pulley as well?
Ze68jNz.png
What year?
 
I had a front engine service on my 2011 last Fall, water pump & serp belt, my radiator was already replaced at some point. I did the upper & lower rad hoses replaced (which you have on your list), I also did the serp belt tensioner (16620-0S011) and idler (16603-38011). I also had the plugs replaced (SK20HR11, bought on Amazon). I also highly recommend you replace the PCV valve if you are not sure if it's been done recently.

Is the PCV valve something that fails around this mileage? Usually don't worry about it.
 
For the 2008 URJ200, it calls for the radiator PN 16400-50380. Are you ordering 16400-50384 because it's supposed to have the common radiator failure mode mitigated? Curious. Can someone confirm that it has been addressed and mitigated via re-design?
 
Is the PCV valve something that fails around this mileage? Usually don't worry about it.

Mine was completely clogged at ~114K miles, and was causing milkshake goo on my fill cap, it was kinda scary until I figured it out. It's a really cheap part, maybe $8-9, and is VERY easy to change, like 2-3 minutes max. I only have 45K on the '15 that I just bought, but I will be changing it soon just for peace of mind.
 
Mine was completely clogged at ~114K miles, and was causing milkshake goo on my fill cap, it was kinda scary until I figured it out. It's a really cheap part, maybe $8-9, and is VERY easy to change, like 2-3 minutes max. I only have 45K on the '15 that I just bought, but I will be changing it soon just for peace of mind.
Ah, ic. I'll go ahead and just add it to my list. Thanks!
 
Mine was completely clogged at ~114K miles, and was causing milkshake goo on my fill cap, it was kinda scary until I figured it out. It's a really cheap part, maybe $8-9, and is VERY easy to change, like 2-3 minutes max. I only have 45K on the '15 that I just bought, but I will be changing it soon just for peace of mind.

Interested to know what the PN is. @KLF, @dwai, please post once acquired.
 
I dont doubt the fitment, my concern/question has to do from an engineering and failure mode corrective action perspective. I guess we will know once we accrue 100k+ miles on the replacement and/or when someone reports a failure on the 16400-50384 radiator.
I have yet to come across an official document from Toyota that states that the new part addresses the problem. But hey, if it can last another 100k, $300 isn't too bad :D
 
I have yet to come across an official document from Toyota that states that the new part addresses the problem. But hey, if it can last another 100k, $300 isn't too bad :D
That's exactly what makes this particular failure mode so critical, the end effect results in a catastrophic failure, and potentially an overheated/seized engine. And the failure has been occurring at 50k-150k, very wide variance.
 
That's exactly what makes this particular failure mode so critical, the end effect results in a catastrophic failure, and potentially an overheated/seized engine. And the failure has been occurring at 50k-150k, very wide variance.
I feel your frustration man. It sucks having the that thought in the back of your head when you are going on trips.
I mentioned the part directly from Koyorad in the other thread if you want to look it up.
2008-2010 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement
 
Alternator might be a thought
 
@dwai, why do you feel like you have to replace the pulley (16173-0S010) and the bypass hose (16282-0S030)?
 
@dwai, why do you feel like you have to replace the pulley (16173-0S010) and the bypass hose (16282-0S030)?
These were recommended by one of the shops here (non-dealer). No additional cost to the labor since they are already doing the work in that area. The parts don't seems to much so why not I guess?
 

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