JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Passenger side: 90311-47012
Driver side: 90311-47013
100 Series LC OEM CV Axle Rebuild with FACTORY Shaft Assy. Outboard Joint 43460-69145 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter nissanh
- Start date
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Driver side: 90311-47013
Just ordered the following from Marietta Toyota and will try to tackle next couple of weeks. Once one side is done, I will move to another side.
CV JOINT KIT (LEFT, RIGHT, FRONT)$201.49Qty: 1:4346069145
OIL SEAL; SEAL$14.84Qty: 1:9031147013
OIL SEAL; SEAL$13.64Qty: 1:9031147027
3 products , 3 items$229.97
Coupon
-$50.88
Shipping & Handling to 91344$50.88
Total:$229.97
CV JOINT KIT (LEFT, RIGHT, FRONT)$201.49Qty: 1:4346069145
OIL SEAL; SEAL$14.84Qty: 1:9031147013
OIL SEAL; SEAL$13.64Qty: 1:9031147027
3 products , 3 items$229.97
Coupon
-$50.88
Shipping & Handling to 91344$50.88
Total:$229.97
Let me know if it's something you want to do together? I need to change my drivers side as it's leaking now.
Sure, we can. I will let you know once parts arrive. Mine is not leaking but I am doing to eliminate clunk from R-D. I have already changed the flanges.
I am planning to do this today.
Why Is this not coming out ?
Should I remove inner one first?
Should I remove inner one first?
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Removing the knuckle entirely makes it easier, and less chance of doing any damage to the knuckle seal, brass bushing, and needle bearings. Yes it can be done with out removing knuckle but in my experience it’s not an optimal procedure.
I should have done that. It is out but it was not optimal for sure
Am I doing this correctly. I think I should open up and tighten up bearings bit more since I have completed installation about a week ago
I was going to go this route with mine, but went with new OEM axles. The main reason was that I thought I had remans in there, but they turned out to be OEM after all. However, in addition to a bit of click on the driver's side CV I also had a little DS leakage out of the diff from a bad seal. It doesn't leak if I don't put it in H position, but if I do there will be a few drips on the garage floor at the end of the day. The inner seal will, over time, wear a slight grove in the CV where it rides allowing diff fluid to leak. New seals and a new/unworn inner axle shaft = no more leakage. No clicking either.
- Thread starter
- #31
Pull the inner from the diff and then pull the entire CV axle out right below the diff.
For the axle bearings, watch: Same setup in the LC. I followed their torque specs when setting the bearings. Did not use the scale.
Last edited:
Should I install same way - outer first then inner or should I take out lower ball joint and remove knuckle?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Inner first.
- Thread starter
- #34
Install the correct C clip (thickness) at the outer end of the CV axle. There is a seller in this forum who sells these OEM C clips in various thicknesses. Have that kit ready or buy those from the dealer.
- Thread starter
- #35
When installing, if I remember correct, the outer goes first and then the inner. I did not remove the lower ball joint. Install OEM diff seals.
I read in number of threads number of people tighten a lot more than 4ft lbs. I just tighten mine to 45ft lbs. Theory behind that is loose setup will wear out bearings sooner. Basically after rotating by hand, it goes around about 1.5 turns for me. Will see how it works out.
Thanks for your response and help.
I will try to finish it up tomorrow.
I bought a set of 6 and will install thicker. Somehow it did not come out enough for me to put thicker. Perhaps this time it will.
I think without removing knuckle, not possible to put inner first which I believe would be a better way (inner first) Perhaps I am not finding the right position.
Seal is replaced. Hopefully it won’t leak.
- Thread starter
- #39
The video is doing a correction 4lb to 45 lb or so. Yes, I used their corrected value.
Install a 12 mm bolt with a thicker and bigger washer. Then pry the washer/bolt with a pry bar against the hub to see the spacing to find the correct thickness of the C clip. I literally did this 2 days ago (had to increase the thickness due to some in-and-out play of CV with the hub).
Been some time since I did it. MAy be the inner goes in first and then slide in the outer to the hub. I did the CV's twice (first with Chinese junk) and on both occations, I did not remove the lower ball joint.
Install a 12 mm bolt with a thicker and bigger washer. Then pry the washer/bolt with a pry bar against the hub to see the spacing to find the correct thickness of the C clip. I literally did this 2 days ago (had to increase the thickness due to some in-and-out play of CV with the hub).
Been some time since I did it. MAy be the inner goes in first and then slide in the outer to the hub. I did the CV's twice (first with Chinese junk) and on both occations, I did not remove the lower ball joint.
FSM has a gap spec for snap ring- check it in the "SA-" section of the FSM.
And while the snap ring kits come with a full assortment of thicknesses, the thinnest (G, F, E) are rarely used. Better off buying D, C and B to keep on hand- and multiple quantities of them as they really should only be used once-not reused. They are stretched when removing and they will eventually pop off the stub with enough force.
And while the snap ring kits come with a full assortment of thicknesses, the thinnest (G, F, E) are rarely used. Better off buying D, C and B to keep on hand- and multiple quantities of them as they really should only be used once-not reused. They are stretched when removing and they will eventually pop off the stub with enough force.
