100 Series LC OEM CV Axle Rebuild with FACTORY Shaft Assy. Outboard Joint 43460-69145 (1 Viewer)

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I just got tired of the Drive-To-Reverse Clunk: After investigation and with OEM diff bushings all around, the clunk is still present. Next was the CV axles: I installed chinese (carquest) CV's 14K miles ago. Issues I found with these CV's:
FREE-PLAY at
(A) 2-3 degrees just inside outboard joint
(B) 2-3 degrees just inside inboard joint
(C) 2-4 degrees at the inboard splines
No wonder the clunk was still present.

Most cost effective remedy:
Generally, the OEM inboard and outboard CV's (except boots) are good for life of the truck, but the problem is the splines at the outboard joint.
So, I bought OEM Shaft assembly 43460-69145 and it comes with everything you need to rebuild an axle with your existing OEM inner joint

Tools used:
Pick tool, flat screwdriver, puller, lock ring pliers, hammer to lock the boot clips and paper towels
3rd picture shows the removal of the clip in the old (OEM) CV inboard joint

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Continued..
4th picture shows the locking ring: opening at 12 O clock
5th picture: puller is been used to pull the joint body from the shaft

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Continued:
1st picture: Note the end that goes into the shaft first: the height of the splines- it is bit shaved compared to the rear of the splines
3rd picture shows the other end of the joint which points at the differential side
Clean all with a paper towel:
Trust me this grease is far better than the grease we use for chassis lubrication.
5th Picture: Old OEM inboard tulip getting a new paint!

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Continued:
FIRST slide the locking clip and then the boot Small end goes first to the shaft: Shaft splines are covered before inserting the CV boot
3rd picture: the smaller diameter end of the ball holder goes in first
4th picture: The end with shaved splines goes in first

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Joined
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Continued:
1st picture: The Locking clip is on
3rd picture: The ball holder ring slides on to the ball carrier
4th Picture: The holder ring is turned in either direction
5th picture: The holder ring is now pushed forward before adding grease and installing the balls

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Joined
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Continued:
1st Picture: The ball carrier and the ring are now ready to accept the balls
2nd picture: Add grease into the inboard tulip and have some to mount the balls into the carrier and ring
3rd picture: grease on the ball carrier

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Joined
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Continued:
2nd picture: I had a masking tape on the out side of the tulip to prevent any paint spray and also good to keep the surface grease-free until the last minute. Remove the tape just before you slide the ribber boot over the tulip
3rd picture: While holding the ball cage by hand, slide the whole axle into the tulip: INSTALL THE LOCK RING
4th Picture: Left over grease inside the tube is loaded into the joint
5th picture: BEER! Too early.... Place the locking ring and bend the two tabs to hold it in place. Don't hammer too much as that may damage the boot. Be gentle and careful when doing this.

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Joined
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Messages
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Motive:
Don't waste money on the chinese garbage cv's. Rebuild the OEM CV's with a new boot kit or this shaft assembly.
Chinese CV's are about 1/2 the weight of OEM
Chinese splines are not engaging fully with the spider wheels inside the diff making a massive play:

I got the pass side OEM CV installed first and spun just a degree and I see the drive shaft turned! Did the same on the driver side that still had 14K mile ran chinese garbage and that thing spun 3-4 degrees EVEN BEFORE it engaged with the spider wheels inside the differential.

After 14K miles both joints on chinese CV's are shaking like a loose tooth about to fall! The old OEM CV with 220K miles are very tight except a ruptured boot.
I believe OEM ramanufactured boots are also good as long as it is true OEM shaft with new grease and boots.
 

JunkCrzr89

Competent Ignoramoose
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Great post with excellent photos! This is really the most cost-effective approach to getting new outboard splines. I should’ve taken photos when I did mine, but your detail is better than what I would’ve provided. This should be in the FAQ 💯
 
Joined
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Great write up with detailed pictures. My boots were torn this past fall, but no noise yet.
 
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Great write up with detailed pictures. My boots were torn this past fall, but no noise yet.
If you have OEM axles, don't wait till it clicks. At that point you have ruined the joints. If the rupture is on the inboard, you can still use it like I did in my 3rd gen 4runner, but if the rupture is in the outboard joint and on a bigger ring (bellow) best if you reboot it.
 
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And for everyone who goes either this route or with a complete new axle, don't cheap out and not replace the drive flange as well or you are basically just shooting youself in the foot!
Always, always replace the drive flange when you involve new axle splines into the equation
 

OwnerCS

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I like the looks of that yellow grease. It looks much better than some of the cheap grease that I've seen on aftermarkets.
 

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