100 Series General Tech and Classifieds (16 Viewers)

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77TLCFJ40 said:
What PM should be done for the 100 brakes ABS/booster issue? When?
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Probably too late. I would pull the boots and look. It does appear that the motor that drives this thing could be pulled and cleaned if at least one of the connectors could be loosened. Mine was pull of dust from the wear of the brushes and I really think that contributed to its demise.
 
Mine was discovered via a CEL.

Accumulator Low Pressure:

C1256
 
No warnings usually, just an audible beep when it's failed completely, sometimes. @pmccraney still had the worst yet, the trifecta persay, motor failure plus fluid leaks not only from the master but the valve block as well. His never had an audible buzzer but you would blow through a stop sign without being able to stop.
 
So you're telling me to make sure the parking brake is in good working order and Jace knows what to do when the pedal goes to the floor.
 
We actually had brakes but very very little. Ardenne couldn't stop with them so yea, learn to drift with the e brake.
 
wngrog said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but it's all based on that one area getting corroded right?

If for some reason your truck does not get corroded there the whole thing won't die I think.

Fireman attempted to make a video with his bag phone with his ass bleaching mirror.

If you want to know if it's imminent peek at that connection.

If you would rather live in denial like I do, don't look.
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The exterior connector corrosion is but one problem. That's more of the threshold issue of being able to fix the unit by replacing the electric motor or not. The FAILURE issue is the commutator in the motor. Go back to Fireman's photos and look at the center of the motor where the brushes ride. You'll see where that surface is all but gone.

Because the thought of total brake failure sort of stays in the back of my mind, I've done some research over the last several months. It appears that, if your connections aren't badly corroded like Fireman's, you can get them loose and stand the chance of replacing just the electric motor for the fix. ABS Antilock Brake System Motor Repair | Motor Repair & Rewinds | Eurton Electric Otherwise, it's the replacement of the entire unit for over $1,000+
 
offr0adlim0 said:
No warnings usually, just an audible beep when it's failed completely, sometimes. @pmccraney still had the worst yet, the trifecta persay, motor failure plus fluid leaks not only from the master but the valve block as well. His never had an audible buzzer but you would blow through a stop sign without being able to stop.
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Yes, leave it to me to have the tri fecta, hahaha. My luck. Yes, I had no signs and no alarms other than just weak/mushy brakes. Everything at the wheels looked fine, so then Rob gave me the wonderful news.

Me: "How much is that going to cost? ballpark?"

Him: "Chris will call you."

Little Pro Tip: When Rob says "Chris will call you," that's code for it's going to hurt more than a little bit.

Papalud said:
Has anyone looked at getting a used unit to have rebuilt so when it goes it's just a quick swap? How hard are these to source used?
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As I recall, Chris/Rob told me there was some reman units available. They were substantially cheaper, but were sort of an unknown in terms of quality/origin, etc.. So, I went with the new part, given that stopping is sort of an important feature of the vehicle.

This turned out to be a good thing. I'm glad I spent the money to do it right. I was able to trade the truck in full confidence that it had zero safety issues and that the brakes were good as new.
 
Papalud said:
Has anyone looked at getting a used unit to have rebuilt so when it goes it's just a quick swap? How hard are these to source used?
Click to expand...
I've talked to Rob about this on several occasions. He said its sort of iffy, due to the unknown condition of the connectors, and the commutator, and the internals of the accumulator. I agree with you, though, that it would be a good plan to have some "rebuilt" units available for swaps. There's GOT to be a way to do that and have them be reliable.....
 
pmccraney said:
Him: "Chris will call you."
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I think we've all received "that" call...and I've owned one less than a year.

I really am glad that we have the experts of 49T here. Especially for noobs like myself.

It's always painful but...Do it right. Do it once.
 
Yeah. I'm eventually going to have to come down and have them do my steering rack. I don't trust Memphis folks
 
dnp said:
I've talked to Rob about this on several occasions. He said its sort of iffy, due to the unknown condition of the connectors, and the commutator, and the internals of the accumulator. I agree with you, though, that it would be a good plan to have some "rebuilt" units available for swaps. There's GOT to be a way to do that and have them be reliable.....
Click to expand...

I've got one on the self for an early model 100. It was assembled with used parts from CruiserYard and other salvage yards to make one working unit.
 
So operation "make the hundy stock again" made a good step tonight. Got the wing on the back window. Did the roof rack. Now just gotta get an inner rear bumper, bumper skin, and hitch receiver. Ugh. Got off work at 7 tonight, missed the bluff city meeting. But got the wing installed. So it wasn't a complete waste of a night.

IMG_1233.JPG
 
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